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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Issues with my '83

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Old Apr 12, 2022 | 06:05 PM
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Issues with my '83

So, I'm having a few minor issues with my '83 F-150 with a 4.9L 4-speed and I have some questions. There is an oil leak between the back of the motor and the bell housing (it's at least dripping from that area) I'm not sure if that's a rear main seal failure or if I just need to replace the gasket on the oil pan. The steering is sloppy but the tie rods and steering box are brand new, what else needs replacing? My headlights recently stopped working after switching from hi to low beams, I got a new switch but, haven't installed it yet. What else could be causing that? The headlights and connectors are brand new.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2022 | 07:14 PM
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Your steering issues are likely a worn out rag joint. Replace it, or better yet, get a Borgeson with the U-joint.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2022 | 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by jmill83
So, I'm having a few minor issues with my '83 F-150 with a 4.9L 4-speed and I have some questions. There is an oil leak between the back of the motor and the bell housing (it's at least dripping from that area) I'm not sure if that's a rear main seal failure or if I just need to replace the gasket on the oil pan. The steering is sloppy but the tie rods and steering box are brand new, what else needs replacing? My headlights recently stopped working after switching from hi to low beams, I got a new switch but, haven't installed it yet. What else could be causing that? The headlights and connectors are brand new.
Replace the footswitch. Should solve it.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2022 | 05:11 AM
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On the oil leak you will need to clean it top to bottom then run motor checking top to bottom.
Up top you have the valve cover that could be leaking out the back and running down.
If the bell housing has a cover you can remove pull it before cleaning to clean up in there.
Then you just have to keep looking top to bottom till you find where the leak is coming from.
BTW the leak may not happen at idle so the RPM may need to come up for the leak to show up. That was the only way I could find the timing cover gasket was bad at the top on my 300 six.

Head lights sounds like the dimmer switch is bad or bed connector.

On the steering you are going to need a helper to rock the steering wheel back and forth. You start in the engine bay checking the shsft down to the box for any play.
Then out of box to each wheel looking for play.
This next part the helper will really need to move the wheel as we want the wheels to turn a little checking if play in the pivot bushings.
Jack the front up so both wheels are off the ground grab the top and bottom of the wheel and rock it checking for play in kingpins/ ball joints & wheel bearings.

BTW if that "new box" was not a red head or blue top box it could have play like the old box as remanf. Just pop new seals in and sent it out.
Dave ----
 
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Old Apr 13, 2022 | 03:11 PM
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It would be best to take it to a alignment shop with your complaint. See if they will inspect it for a small fee and tell you what's wrong with it. Better than guessing.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2022 | 04:18 PM
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If the clutch is slipping or chattering then rear main is likely the source of leaks.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2022 | 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 2five7
Your steering issues are likely a worn out rag joint. Replace it, or better yet, get a Borgeson with the U-joint.
A cheap alternative for the budget minded folks is to swap in a Bricknose 87-91 steering shaft. They're a better design with a dry joint at the top, and a bonded rubber joint at the bottom.

That Borgeson stuff is expensive...it's nice...but spendy.
 
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