When I installed the 6V to 12V conversion kit, and a new 12 wiring harness I got an issue with the starter solenoid that I just can’t figure out.

The paperwork on the starter solenoid shows that when being used with an ignition switch and no starter button, you are supposed to move the jumper from the center post to ground. I tried this with an unexpected result. The starter never disengages and the motor can’t start. However, when I manually jump the center post to ground and the remove it, the truck starts right up! I also tried putting the jumper in the way it came in the box (jumped from center post to left post), not joy.

Anybody have a suggestion?

 

Is this on your '53 F250? Let us know so we can move you to the correct forum for this question.

 

Oh sorry, yes, its on my 53 F250

 

Thread moved.

The folks here will have an answer. Good luck with it!

 

So to be clear...you are using a starter with a built-in solenoid and not a starter relay on the firewall?

 

No, I am using a starter on the firewall. I upgraded from a 6V with 3 leads to a 12V with 4 leads.

Here is a link to my google drive with a video of how I am starting it.https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Y3J...ew?usp=sharing

 

The starter circuit is fairly straightforward...large cable from the battery passes 12 VDC through the relay to the starter. The two small terminals on the relay activate the relay...one terminal goes to ground and the other to the "S" terminal on the ignition key. Here is a diagram:

 

Is that the schematic supplied by the relay vendor? That is not the Ford 4-post factory wiring. These are the different types of factory Ford relays.

 

Good points Ross...given that the OP states that this is a 6 VDC to 12 VDC "conversion" kit the gender of the relay is unknown. Instructions without a schematic are difficult at best.

 

I think I have is wired up like the schematic shows. The battery is hooked to the 1st terminal on the left (a larger terminal), the second terminal is currently connected to ground (via the red jumper wire. it is shown unconnected to the terminal in this picture). Ingition switch is connected to the 3rd terminal and the output to the starter in hooked to the 4th terminal (the other large terminal.
Look at my post up above and it shows a video of starting the truck by jumping the second terminal to ground manually and then removing it. All other attempts get the starter turning but not disengaging it and preventing the truck from actually running

John

 

Hi John,
Are you using the stock '55 ignition switch? If so does it have a "start" postion? On the solenoid you can ground the 2nd terminal, but on the 3rd terminal you'll need a 12 volt start "signal" from the igntion switch. That "signal" will go away as soon as you let go of the key when it starts. So if you only have an ignition on and ignition off switch that was used in vehicles with a start button you will have to change it to the newer Ignition off, ignition on, and start position. I think that is what you need. Let me know if I am wrong about the switch you are using.
PS:
If you don't want to change your ignition switch you could use a two terminal start button. One side to connect to your Ignition switch ON and the other connects to your solenoid 3rd terminal as long as the 2nd terminal is grounded.

 

Great! I will try this. It is an aftermarket ignition switch, but your explanation sounds right. I will let you guys know.

JD

 

It depends on what relay we're talking about, but I don't understand the rationale for grounding one of the small terminals -- on a Ford-type 4-terminal relay, that terminal goes full hot when cranking! See my pic with explanation above. Can we get a vendor part number to look at it?

 

Your are correct about this Ross! The starter relay I thinkhe has (an aftermarket one) has the windings non grounded and connected to terminals 2 and 3. That way you could wire it for ground activation with a one wire start button, or a 12 volt activation with key start or two wire start button. But I could be all wet as usual about that. No doubt the OEM Fords could be used too, if the circuit was wired for the particular relay. I remember this I think from another thread about the same relay someone was trying to use some years back.

 

Sorry to reply to my own post but just wanted to point out, after looking at all the replies again, that CharlieLed answered it correctly already in post #7 above. The diagram he posted and his explanation I think is right on! Sorry Charlie! I just wanted to give you due credit!