I'm looking for electrical help with my Titan fuel controller and KUS fuel gauge linked here.... https://kus-usa.com/product/fuel-level-gauge-cpfr/

I purchased a Titan Travel Trekker 50 gallon in-bed auxiliary fuel tank linked here..... https://titanfueltanks.com/products/...system-5410050

The Titan tank comes with a fuel controller that automatically pumps fuel for a certain period of time with a push of a button. It has a lighted level sensor. So fuel gauge is not needed, but I just wanted a "traditional" fuel gauge as well since I had a place for it on my F650 dash. I y'd the tank signal wire from the controller to the KUS fuel gauge thinking both would get a level reading. However, I found that the controller will NOT output a level if tied together with a fuel gauge (and will not pump fuel if it thinks it is empty). If I disconnect the signal wire going to the fuel gauge, the controller level starts to function. I found if I measured voltage on the signal wire, I would measure roughly 4.5-5.0 volts if I had the KUS fuel gauge connected. The Titan controller would not function correctly for the level. When I did have the Titan controller functioning correctly as far as level (KUS fuel gauge disconnected) I found that the Titan controller was outputting roughly 1.6 volts. So basically having the two combined (Titan controller and KUS traditional fuel gauge) messes with the fuel controller.

I sent an email off to Titan today asking if there is a way around this (since I think I couldn't be the first to want to run both), but I thought I would hit up this crowd for ideas since this is a knowledgeable crew. Any ideas on getting them both to function together? If I can't, I believe I will be ditching the controller and going with the fuel gauge and a rocker switch.....

Titan fuel tank installation instructions here..... https://titanfueltanks.com/instructi...050-041017.pdf
KUS sending unit (comes with Titan tank).... https://kus-usa.com/product/sss-ssl-sender/
https://kus-usa.com/wp-content/uploa...llation_v4.pdf

 

I believe level gauges typically read off of resistance, so by adding dual gauges you could have changed the resistance seen by each one.

I propose mounting the Titan controller (with its level gauge) on the 650 dash.

Otherwise you may be able to add a sending unit for the KUS gauge.

 

Perhaps you are looking at the wrong parameter when trying to find a solution?

When the fuel sending unit and gauge went out on my auxiliary tank, I had a crash course in how ohms/resistance plays a critical role in the operation of the gauge and where the sending unit float is at in relation to the fuel level.

Maybe the additional resistance the KUS gauge is introducing into the circuit (when in series) is causing the Titan controller to see an empty tank.

Thoughts?

EDIT: Jason was typing at the same time and I got distracted. My apologies for duplicated information.

EDIT 2: You "might" be able to reduce the resistance enough with a high quality data wire like shielded category 6. Using both wires from a given pair like white/blue and blue/white as a single conductor. They are wrapped/shielded as pairs and twisted together to promote conductivity. I don't know if this would work, but just a thought for you to contemplate.

Also, a shorter run of the wire would help, but I don't suspect you took an abnormally long path either.

 

Correct. Affecting the resistance which is also affecting the voltage output (ohm's law). When I originally installed both and found that the controller wasn't working, I measured the resistance at the wires going to the controller and at their source at the sending unit at the tank. Resistance was the same (controller disconnected). Fuel gauge was working, but not the level sensors on the controller. At the time I was measuring around 119.4 ohms. The fuel tank sending unit reads around 240 ohms when empty, and around 33 ohms when full. I thought even if it changed the resistance that the controller would still see something. So I thought the controller was bad. So Titan sent me another one, and it had the same result. That is when I started digging further and found that the controller worked if I disconnected the fuel gauge.

I've already modifed my F650 dash to accept the fuel gauge and controller. I can remove the controller, and replace the mounting bracket with an unmodified Riffraff bracket, and still be good. If I remove the fuel gauge, I have to find a blank off for the fuel gauge. Early in troubleshooting I decided to order a toggle switch as a backup to turn on the pump manually in case the controller ever failed. So I have a rocker switch already coming. Was just hoping to find a way to get both to work...

Do they make sending units (same design) that would have dual outputs? Would that work?

I guess I could add a toggle switch that cuts the contact between those two connections. Toggle the switch to have the controller work, and toggle it off to have the fuel gauge work. Kind of crappy, but it would work I guess......

 

I had an ‘86 Chevy truck with dual tanks and they used a rocker switch to select the tank in use. Maybe the resistance and switch make it a simplified solution to have one gauge with two tanks. You could throw a switch in the aux tanks circuit to see fuel level when switch is on.
Just a thought.

 

This is correct. Y-ing the fuel level senders is basically connecting two rheostats in parallel. Perhaps the way to see fuel level in each tank on a single gauge is to use a tank selector switch like what the OBS trucks have.

 

I’m with these guys. Easiest solution would probably be to run the sender wire through a selection rocker switch. Leave connected to your gauge, then flip to the controller when wanting to pump.

 

Thanks for the information guys. The toggle switch was what I was thinking of as well. Not the perfect setup, but functional. I think that is the route I will be going unless somebody thinks of a way to have both function "normally" together?

 

I found this unit that says for one sending unit to two gauges, but don't know exactly how it works.....

https://www.tek-tanks.com/product/du...ion-converter/

 

Connect like they say to in this diagram and it should work for you.

 

Wouldn't I need the other way around, one sending unit and two gauges? But would still need this converter box.

I'm still researching the topic, but a lot of what I've read just talks about running the DPDT switch to select between the two. That is what I'm leaning towards right now unless an affordable alternative is found.

 

I thought you had two senders you want to average to a single gauge? Factory tank and an auxiliary tank, right?

EDIT: I just read your original post again. My bad. Yup you need to hook it up the other way around as shown in their other diagram. The gauges are hooked up in parallel though so I don’t know that using this box will fix your issue for sure.

 

No, I'm running one sending unit from my auxiliary tank (which feeds my stock tank). My stock tank gauge reads as normal and is out of the equation. My Titan fuel controller has a lighted level. I'm trying to run that in tandem with a traditional KUS fuel gauge. When I try this, my Titan fuel controller reads 0 level (therefore, won't turn on to pump fuel from my aux tank to primary tank).

I know a DPDT switch inline will make it work independently of each other, but not in tandem.

 

I edited while you were replying. See above.

 

I sent off emails to both Titan and KUS-USA to see if they knew of a way to get them both to work in tandem. Titan said they were going to look into it and get back to me. I haven't heard back from KUS yet, but I did just send them the email today.

My guess Is I'll be running a DPDT switch to control the signal to each. Not a big deal. I just never even thought of this issue prior.