Hello everyone. As the title says I've been working on my 90 E150 351w. It's running extremely rich. *I bought the van like this. The guy I bought it from said it just happened one day. He replaced injectors, IAC, and more.

Problem:
To cold start the van I have to use ether. Once warm it always starts back up. When I floor the van it stumbles and hesitates, and sometimes backfires.

What I've done:
Set the timing to 8* advance (unplugged SPOUT to set it and replunged SPOUT connector after finished) - This greatly helped hot starts and even helped cold start with ether. (It used to cold start with ether and stumble, it not longer does that, but requires ether...)
Replaced FPR.
Replaced coolant temp sensor (one at front of engine).
Replaced external fuel pump.
Replaced O2 sensor.
Replaced TPS.
Replaced MAP.
Checked crank to distributor play, it seems fine. (Turned crank by hand one way, then reversed it and watched distributor move. There was no delay in either direction.)
Cleaned IAC. (when unplugging idle goes erratic, then comes back when I plug it in - working?).
Fuel Pressure is at 43 psi before start and 39-40 psi on start/idle... Pressure never goes down to 35 (idle?). Exhaust smoke is black... When I pull the vacuum off the FPR it goes to 43. Oil looks like it has gas in it. I can't find any fuel leaks.
Lastly, the van doesn't shift unless I shift it manually. *I checked the vacuum hose from the throttle body to the transmission...

I checked codes via a scanner and via old school light method... Niether give me any codes. *The light stays on. The hand held reader says no errors. Check engine light stays on consant.

I have not messed with the EGR.

At this point I don't know what to do other than order a carb/distributor setup.... Any help will be greatly appreciated!

 

The map or maf is what I would be looking closely at
Previous replaced the iac?
You need to test the KOEO AND KOER with the appropriate start tester

 

I tested it with a Ford odb1 tester. Used the passenger side red connector and the test connector. It reports no codes... Not sure where to go.

 

If you believe you are getting gas down into the oil then normally that would be a leaky fuel injector. When you cut the engine off there should still be pressure in the fuel system. If you have 1 or 2 injectors that are leaking, they will drip fuel down into the cylinder and the fuel pressure will drop. The extra fuel n the cylinders will make its way down beside the piston and into the oil galley.
The most accurate way I know of to check the injectors is to remove the upper plenum so you can gain access to the fuel rail and all the injectors. You them loosen the fuel rail and injectors and lift them out of the intake. turn the key to the on position and back off a couple of times to make sure the fuel system is primed and look for a leaking injector. You might want to devise a way to catch the extra fuel such as a cam or jar..

Have you connected a fuel pressure gauge and after priming the system, just let it sit and see if the pressure drops off?

The fact that your CEL light is staying on and you say that you found no codes indicates that you may possibly have a bad ECM. A bad ECM could also cause most of the problems you mention.

Do you have a E4OD transmission or just an AOD? The E4OD has a button somewhere to cancel the OD. The E4OD is electronically controlled while the AOD is not.
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PS I just re-read where the PO had changed the injectors. When changing multiple sensors and parts at one time, especially if they are aftermarket parts store parts, it is not uncommon to get bad part or a part that does not register the proper voltage ranges.

 

Thanks Annaleigh! I did accidentally leave the fuel pressure gauge connected all night. When I looked at it this morning before start it was still at 39-40psi.It is an E40D trans.
It sounds like going carburetor may not be possible due to E40D ecu control... Thanks for your feedback. I'll take the rails w/injectors connected off this week and test them.

 

Disconnect the battery and pull the PCM out for inspection/replacement, it's the #1 suspect in this case.

 

Thanks Conanski! I'll get to it this week and report back.

 

No sense in pulling the injectors or the rail if it held pressure overnight
Your problem is not leaking injectors
It is what is causing the duty cycle or injector on time to exceed programmed limits that is your problem
Yes possible PCM problem or sensor
Freeze frame data is in order to check the MAF and IAT ECT sensors as well as watch the front O2 sensors switch
The NGS came out in about 1992 but I can still read some pids and do some freeze frame data on the earlier ones using mine
I would have to plug it in to your van to be sure of just exactly what all it would do.
Go to Autozone and ask who like me is an old Ford boy in your area that gas a NGS (they should, and know if he is willing to help)

 

Sorry, snow has prevented me from working on the van. I'll get back to you as soon as I can work on it.

 

I wanted to say thank you to you all!

Snow and money prevented me from trying to fix sooner. I replaced the computer and all is well now!

Thank you all so much!

 

Thanks for the update and solution! One question though. How difficult was it to reach the bolt under the HVAC fan housing that holds the connector to the PCM? I have had my connector loose years ago but it was while replacing the HVAC system.

 

Isn't the 1990 E150 ECM / PCM on the driver side kick plate under the dash behind the E-Brake, I was crawling around under mine a few days ago checking fuses and I could have sworn it was the computer....Let me know if I'm wrong though.

 

That is the ABS controller you're looking at, don't take that out.

On the passenger side under the AC/Heat fan is the ECU. Take the two philips screws out that hold the cover on the fan, then you'll see the ECU at the bottom. The wiring harness needs to be disconnected first with a 10 or 11mm socket. That harness is located in engine bay behind the battery and under the cables/(thingy) that deals with heater core. Once you know that it's a 30 minute swap. Hardest part is unscrewing the bolt on the harness and screwing it back in.

*I didn't explain every little detail.

I apologize I don't know all the correct wording.

 

What kind of mileage are you getting with the new ECM?