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I recently ordered some new Mile Marker hubs for my 76 F250. According to their site they should fit with a conversion kit which I also ordered. However when they were delivered today they are about an inch smaller than the ones on the truck currently. I was under the assumption these came with a dana 44 front end, but there is no tag on the diff to verify that. This was on the housing which to me looks like it is a 44:
Can anyone point me in the right direction as far as ordering the correct hub?
Depending on the GVW high boys had 2 different hubs on a Dana 44. yours has the big Spicer and the new ones you have are the 1/2 ton standard size.
Your original big hubs are original and desirable. I'd leave them they're better than most of the chinese replacement junk anyway and they look much better..
Often called the "external" type, where the new one is the "internal" type just based on the visible bolt heads vs sunken cap screws if I remember. Other vehicles had similar (but not the same) design as well. Like older Jeep CJ's with their smaller "external" type lockouts.
I never saw, or at least never noticed a High-Boy with the internal type hubs, but it sounds like they came both ways from what the others were saying.
Agree with the others too about the original Spicer lockouts being the most desirable type. Have you had yours apart yet to check them out?
My truck came with these Selectro hubs. They work just fine but I would rather have a set of factory hugs like the ones you are replacing.
One of these days I will find a nice set of the factory hubs and they will replace my current Selectro hubs.
From a technical standpoint yes, but when most people say external they're thinking of a Warn style hub that's more unitized.
It doesn't matter none of the parts between the large and small Spicer hubs don't interchange but parts are available for both so I'd save them. if you insist on a new set of hubs Warn makes a nice set.
The main reason and you can’t really tell from the pic but a lot of the outer rings around the bolts are cracked and warped. I’m sure they are fine, but I figured it was to be better safe than sorry. I ordered the 302B, but after reaching out to them, I needed the 449s. Is there a place to source these original type hub?
Often called the "external" type, where the new one is the "internal" type just based on the visible bolt heads vs sunken cap screws if I remember. Other vehicles had similar (but not the same) design as well. Like older Jeep CJ's with their smaller "external" type lockouts.
I never saw, or at least never noticed a High-Boy with the internal type hubs, but it sounds like they came both ways from what the others were saying.
Agree with the others too about the original Spicer lockouts being the most desirable type. Have you had yours apart yet to check them out?
Paul
I have not taken the apart yet. I am trying to diagnose a vibration and moving on to these next to check the bearings and splines. I had ordered a replacements due to cracks in almost every ring around the bolts.
Understandable. Cracks are not usually a good sign!
Maybe have been put under a large amount of stress at some point in their lives, or just let to come loose over time and not checked before using 4wd a couple of times.
Or both!
When is the vibration happening, and do you have another discussion on that? Can be lots of things, but certainly the lockouts if they're not unlocking and something is amiss in the front end.
The cracks are pretty common , they're pot metal and everyone cranks the bolts down to 125 ft lbs. if the holes are still pretty much in tact it's probably ok. the hub housing is not reopped and pretty expensive if you find nice ones.
Unless your hubs are falling apart they wouldn't cause a vibration. is the vibration with the hubs turned in or out ?
Understandable. Cracks are not usually a good sign!
Maybe have been put under a large amount of stress at some point in their lives, or just let to come loose over time and not checked before using 4wd a couple of times.
Or both!
When is the vibration happening, and do you have another discussion on that? Can be lots of things, but certainly the lockouts if they're not unlocking and something is amiss in the front end.
Paul
I don’t remember if I started one or not, but was brought up in a other thread. The worst vibration is when the speed gets up to around 50 mph and the slowing down from the. Sometimes at slower speeds and getting rolling you can fee a slight up and down vibration as if the tires sat for years and have a flat spot. I have not replaced the u-joints yet. I have a new set up wheels and tires on the way. I was going to start there and follow up with the u-joints and continue to isolate.
The cracks are pretty common , they're pot metal and everyone cranks the bolts down to 125 ft lbs. if the holes are still pretty much in tact it's probably ok. the hub housing is not reopped and pretty expensive if you find nice ones.
Unless your hubs are falling apart they wouldn't cause a vibration. is the vibration with the hubs turned in or out ?
i didn’t think the hubs would be causing any issues, but potentially something behind it, worn out bearing etc. this is all when the hubs are free and the truck is in 2wd.
They work just fine but I would rather have a set of factory hugs like the ones you are replacing.
