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While torquing the head bolts down one snapped. Its No. 19 in the torque sequence against the fire wall. No way to drill it out without removing the engine which I cant do where I live.
Its away from the compression side of the head where the large water jackets are located...can I run the engine without it or am I dead? Arghhhhhhhhhhhhh!
did it brake at the head or further down if is not far down you can weld a nut on it .
a good rod can build up the stud without sticking it to the head
tricky welding though.
havr fun hope this helps
Were you re-torqueing the bolt or was it out and broke when you tried to torque it. If it broke because you were re- torqueing I 'd say leave it be, it likly won't cause any problems. The flip senerio is a toss up, wether it will leak.
Since its on the exhaust valve side you stand a good chance of never doing more than losing a little coolant at times. Check the radiator for bubbles once in awhile to be safe, that means the head has to come off.
Now tell me about how well your torque wrench is calibrated?
This advice is a little late for you now, but any time I install head bolts I always run a proper sized tap into the block to be sure the threads are clean. Lots of time there is rust and other crud in the bottom of the hole and that can cause the bolt to break. If the hole is dirty you may also get a bad torque reading. Ozzie.
I re-used the original bolts when it broke down deep at the threads. Set the torque wrench to 65 lbs and never made it there. Its a brand new wrench from Pittsburg, never calibrated it. Could have been the angle of the wrench not being squared and placing side loads on it.
Thanks for the help...so far so good...no water in the exhaust or bubbles in the radiator...glad I took your advise and used the aluminum paint on the head gasket.
Hate to admit how many times we did the same in the pits decades ago. Blow an engine, swap between heats and reuse the one set of good heads we could afford!
Thank God for that aluminum paint!
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