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I am trying to remove the pin switch in the door that activates the door alarm. I have removed the plug from the bottom of the switch and was told to rotate the bottom of the swith toward the exterior (I presume that's counter clockwise) and it should come out. Problem. Mine is reluctant to turn and I'm afraid if I put to much pressure on it I might break it. Is this just stuck or am I doing something wrong?
It was stuck and came out after exerting a ton of pressure, but that's not the problem. The switch checked out okay and it works fine. I did check to see if the chime dinged after turning off the engine and opening the door with the pin switch unplugged. Seems to be okay then. But as soon as I plugged it in and tried it after turning off the engine and opening the door it chimed for the 30sec and then quit as it usually does. I did find a lot of what looked like lithium grease or some such compound in the plug and socket. I cleaned it out of the socket. I presumed in was put in my Ford for insulation and waterproofing the connector, but not sure. I thoroughly ohmed the pin switch for continuity when switched and checked for any leakage to ground. It seems to be fine. But something is still wrong. And I am puzzled about the operation.
That's what I thought and was why I checked it unplugged. So if the switch is good and is releasing, something must be still holding the plunger down and engaged. Right? Could it be a faulty latch? I will check that tomorrow.
Not sure what your problem is. There are usually 2 things that go wrong with the chime system. The dooor switch goes wrong or the key switch goes wrong. 1) If the door ajar light and dome light stay on when your in the vehicle with the engine running , that's normally an indication that you have a bad door switch. 2) if you remove the key, open the door and the chime is going, that indicates a bad key switch, unless your lights are on. So what exactly are you experiencing?
My problem is not when I am in the cab with the doors closed and the engine running or not running. The dome light or door chime does not stay on under those conditions. Everything seems to be fine then. My door ajar light is apparently burnt out as it has never been on. My problem is when I remove the key and open the driver's door the chime goes on for about 30 sec. I have no problem with the passenger door. If it was the key switch, why wouldn't I have a problem with the passenger door? Also, I have checked the key switch and it seems to be okay. I have also checked the key switch when the driver's door is open and the 30 sec. chiming has stopped, by reinserting the key and the chiming starts immediately and stops immediately when I remove the key. Also when I unplug the pin switch in the driver's door and do all the above checks everything seems to be fine. Wouldn't you think that this still points the problem at the driver's door? I appreciate your help and input.
That sounds like a key switch problem. If the key is out and you open the door , you should not get a chime unless the lights are on. In other words, the computer or BCM thinks that the key is still in the igniition. Pulll the shrouds off the column (three screws on the bottom) and look at the back end of the ignition switch. There will be a plastic piece attached to a black wire. Make sure this is still attachedd to the switch . They tend to break off the switch and ground on the column.
Tomorrow's another day. I have already checked the ground wire on the ignition switch and it's firmly attached. I will keep you posted when and if I find out the problem. Thanks Stepman. Later
I had the same problem with a "92 Taurus. I tried everything including pulling the key switch. The door switch has 3-circuits/contacts. I diagnosed each of these circuits and found the one that was sounding the chime. I cut that wire, taped/insulated the cut ends and remounted the door switch. Now, I or no one else knows that the problem ever existed.
Today I followed Stepman's advice and checked out the key lock switch. I removed the switch and did a thorough cleaning and ohming of the contacts. I figured out how the switch works. It has a spring loaded contact that touches metal ground in the switch when the key is inserted and springs away from metal ground when the key is removed. It is adjustable by bending but it's critical. If bent too far the contact is always grounded and would always chime with the key inserted and the door is opened. If not bent far enough it never chimes with the key inserted and the door is opened. At least that is the sequence mine does, but then again I have a chiming problem. But I'm sure it's not the key lock switch. I guess I will go back to the driver's door and do some more checking. I am determined to get this this working as it should. Does anyone know why even with my problem there is a 30 sec. timeout. Is it done in the computer to save the battery?
At last I have resolved my pin switch problem, but I haven't yet figured out the repair. I definitely now know the pin switch is always activated or closed. This happens when I reinstalled the pin switch and whatever closes it is stuck or broke in that position. Something is always pushing on the pin switch. It definitely doesn't need lubrication (the latch or the pin switch). I have tried moving the latch in both directions, but nothing seems to help. Has anyone else had this problem and if so what's the cure? What actually activates the pin switch? The latch seems to be working fine. Maybe I should give the latch one last super flushing with contact cleaner, but I fear something is just worn down too much after 150,000 miles. Sigh! But at least I definitely know the problem, now for the cure. And remember, if your door chimes when you open it and stops after 30 sec. with your engine off and the key removed, it's not the key lock switch, but it is the pin switch in the door that is always being held closed.