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Congratulations. You got a bargain! What a find. I think the '69 radius arm bushings will work for you.
Great that you will also have the DJM dropped beams and front disc brakes. I'm using the same DJM setup. I think that all mid '70s F100s used the same calipers, but I'm not sure. To verify that they are the same, go to rockauto.com and look up the calipers for a few mid '70s F100s to see if they are the same part number. To get the rust off the rotors I'd suggest using steel wool and elbow grease. There are rust removers that you can use, but after you rinse them off, they'll probably just start to rust again. Check the wheel bearings in the rotor to make sure that there is no debris contamination from the junkyard, or just buy new ones.
Another important item is the dust shield on the spindles. My originals were trashed and the spindles I'm currently using don't have an attachment capability for them. They are next to impossible to find.
Your next mission is to find the rear sway bar setup from '73 to '79 trucks that will fit around the diff and connect cleanly with end links to the frame (avoiding the shocks). If you find one, make sure it's got a twin because that is what is on my hunting list too.
Take it all apart, clean it all up with new grease, bushings and seals and you'll have a great upgrade. I use Valvoline Multi-Vehicle high temp red grease on everything and on any Zerk fittings. Make sure to use something like Permatex Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube on the caliper sliders at final assembly. Don't be conservative on the bushing grease either, wherever metal and the bushings are touching each other. Use that translucent/clear grease that comes with the poly bushings.
Ditto what lilorbie says using white vinegar. Works great. Just check your parts frequently and don't leave them in for long period of time. A wire brush helps take the residue off when you pull parts out. You can use the same vinegar for repeated uses so get a tub with a top that snaps on to minimize evaporation. Be careful with thinner gauge metals.
Ok I'll keep an eye out for that. I think I will use the steel wool and elbow grease first the rust is pretty light if that doesn't work then I'll soak them like someone else mentioned. I will probably start a build thread once I get all the parts together. I was able to find a post by number dummy that says the spindles I have are 75-79. Isn't this the dust shield or is this just to help cool the rotors
Yes, that is the dust shield (maybe different name) and it helps cool the rotor. Some people remove them because they say it catches and holds small rocks. If you have a great pair like in your pics, I'd keep them on your installation.
I started with 3 speed manual, manual steering and manual drums. Converted to C6, Saginaw power steering and power brakes with front disc. Almost everything was scavenged from misc years F100's in junkyards and a few new parts purchases.
My son bought the power brake setup, I think from Classic Performance Products. I added the proportioning valve (front disc, rear drum) from CPP just below the master cylinder instead of on the frame rail. Hardest part was getting the correct firewall mounting bracket to align with the hole in the firewall and the right length push rod.
nene…
I think this one might be your best bet for a complete kit. Important thing to notice is that the push rod and grommet are the round version, which will fit the firewall opening. That is what I had a problem with on our purchase from CPP, which came with a flat bar push rod and a rectangular grommet. Brake Booster Conversion Kit Zinc Plated F-100 1957-1979
Ok thanks I have a booster for a 71 and the corresponding brake pedal. I'm just not sure if the booster is any good or not. I also grabbed the prop valve from the 76 f250 I should be able to use it I think. For the master I was thinking of going with the explorer mc like ultra ranger
To remove the rust get some White Vinegar and some kind of tub. Pour in the vinegar and then put in the rotors . Wait a few days and the rust will be gone. It should be White Vinegar not Apple Cider Vinegar. I know for a fact the White Vinegar works I don't know if the Apple Cider Vinegar will work.
I read DJM beams are bad about rusting in the crevices I think.........the issue made have been addressed some..........I read that a year or more ago................
I read DJM beams are bad about rusting in the crevices I think.........the issue made have been addressed some..........I read that a year or more ago................
The beams are fine they are powder coated with like a matte black or at least the ones I pulled are. The rotors are what are rusty seems like they just removed the shipping oil/grease and rusted over time. It's very minimal.still shiny in some spots.
While you are at the wrecking yard (recycler's here in Calif), stick your head under a late '70's E-series Ford Van for sway bar ideas.
They may even be a bolt-on for your 2wd '69 pickup and even have stand-up rods to level out the sway bar.
Wrecking yards are such a good supplier of pieces and parts.
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