Does anyone know how much I can expect the front end end to drop once all the sheet metal and rad are installed? I am using stock Mustang II V8 springs. Here’s a pic of how it’s sitting with just engine and trans in it.

 

Ideally, your lower arms should be parralel with the ground at ride height. So whatever the difference is between the inner and outer side of the lower control arm is how much it should drop.

 

I agree the arms should be parallel. Is it normal to not be able to install the shocks until the suspension is at or close to its normal position? The shocks I have are also oem length Mustang II.

 

Looks to be way too much spring . I'm not sure what the front end will weigh ( 500 pounds ? ) but I doubt that will bring it down . You would think m11 v8 springs would be in the ballpark . Was this a complete kit ? I guess you could try loading some weight onto the front .

 

It was not a complete kit. I bought the crossmember from a company called Hercules Machine in Manitoba back in the late 90’s and had to piece everything else together my self. So I’ve just stuck with stock MII pieces. I guess the only real way to know will be once it’s fully assembled. Then I can adjust/replace springs as required. Is it better to find the right spring rate spring or is ok to cut the ones I have? What will I be losing by cutting the springs?

 

If you cut the springs you will get the correct ride height, but be way too stiff. You will want to get the correct weight springs. I would do like you said and see what it looks like with all the weight on it. Mine seemed way to high and stiff when I put springs on mine before I had the front end on, but it leveled out nicely and rides pretty well with the weight on the front.

 

Thanks for the input guys. We will see how it goes as I get more of it together. I’ll try to track the changes as I add on pieces. 😊

 

It really wouldn't take much to put some weight on the front which would give you a pretty good idea .

 

While it looks like the springs are the issue with the ride height, I'm not sure that the springs themselves are the problem. I can't see from the pics where the upper spring "top hats" are located but it looks like they may be too low in the chassis.

 

You can see the frame in his introduction thread and I would think it's ok .

 

I guess unless it was the wrong cross member for my truck but it fit quite nice when welded in. 🤷🏻‍♂️

 

Never seen the notch in the lower frame before in these trucks with this front end. Was it required in the manufacturer's instructions? Working with the springs looks like your path now. I do not believe the front sheet metal will bring it down. I am with Charlie there may be an issue with the hats and crossmember geometry.

 

Yeah the notch was needed for clearance to the bellows on the steering rack. I guess we will see how it goes. I hope everything works out. 🤞🏻

 

This is going to sound odd, but you need to give it time for the springs to settle / learn their position.

when I was doing my TCI install I was concerned about this too (had a very similar looks as yours) and called them and they told me the same thing and my options were either leave it that way until I add all the parts on the truck in which case the springs will settle and in time learn their position after several hundred miles of driving, or I could take a 7/8" threaded rod (18" long) through the UC, spring & LC with 1/4" steel plates (with 7/8" hold drilled in them) on top of the spring perch and the bottom of the LC with nuts on both ends of the rod (lower part of rod about 1" of thread) and crank the nut on the top to compress the springs down (I needed vise grip to hold the rod from spinning) to where the lower control arms are almost parallel to the ground to simulate the full weight on the front.

They told me to leave it that way for a month or so, I think I waited 2 months. Then you remove the rods, and install your shocks. The rods allow the springs to learn the "at rest" position of the fully loaded truck. When I put the shock in I had to put a jack under the LC to compress the spring about an inch to be able to get the upper shock bushing, washer & nut on the shock rod, but prior to doing the 7/8" rod trick there was no way I could install the shock even with a jack under the LC. The springs were so stiff I was lifting the truck. The rod trick definitely works.

Jim

 

The hats look good in this pic. The distance between the R&P and the LCA seems right but the whole crossmember just seems to be too high in the frame. Have you contacted any of the professional suspension manufacturers yet? Brett Vandervort of Fatman Fabrications is very knowledgeable and has some good videos explaining suspensions, here is one:

SEMA HRIA Education Day - Fatman Fabrications - Bing video