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Hello everyone. It’s been awhile since I’ve been on here, but I’ve been chugging away at Alberta. My ‘79 F100 single cab got her plates and insurance. HOORAY! I took her out for a shake down cruise and inspected everything I could think of afterwards. The one thing I’m not of where to start is the front alignment. The passenger front wheel’s camber is off. The top leans in but the driver side is fine. I measured heights on both sides and they are the same, so I’m pretty sure it’s not the spring. I used my level to make sure it wasn’t my eyes playing a trick on me, passengers side is definitely cambered. I did NOT have any vibrations or bad noises I could hear over the exhaust during the drive so I’m pretty sure it’s not the wheel bearing. I don’t remember this being an issue when it was last running, but that was over 10 years ago. What should I check next or what is a better way to check what I’ve already considered? I’ve attached some pictures to help show what I can’t say in words.
Twin I Beams, before trying to align it, check kingpins for play. If kingpin bushings are shot, no alignment is gonna help. Your twin I beams set the camber, if it was ever right and now is off, it indicates wear. The passenger side typically takes a beating du to that being where the roadway has rougher edges, more holes too.
You have kingpins and the truck is a 4x2 right?
If nothing is worn out then the only way to get that back into spec is to bend the beam.
Thing is most shops no longer do this because they dont know how or have the tools to do it.
Heck if the truck is not in the computer they will just look at you like you have 3 eyes.
You need to find an old shop with an old timer and tools, vary hard to find today, that can do this or find a large truck repair shop and see if they can do it.
Only other thing and it may not work is to change out that beam. The used beam may also be bent like yours.
My 81 F100 still has kingpins and no shop around me bends beams and after checking with about 4 only 1 knew the beams would need to be bent if out of spec but he did not have the equipment to bend beams. I was lucky only toe was out a little.
Dave ----
The best thing to do is make sure everything is tight and in good shape and then take it to an alignment shop. or they can fix whatever if you don't want to. they have the equipment to check everything that we simply cannot.
The best thing to do is make sure everything is tight and in good shape and then take it to an alignment shop. or they can fix whatever if you don't want to. they have the equipment to check everything that we simply cannot.
If you check the web you can check alignment at home it just takes a little more work and math that the equipment dose for them.
Heck he can see with the level the camber is off he just does not know what the deg. is.
Angle finder would tell him if he wanted to know.
Thing is he has to go off the wheel, not the tire, and make sure the run out is not great to throw off the angle.
Caster is a little harder as I believe that is where the math comes into play.
I have not looked that deep into caster just a quick over view only.
Dave ----
Good alignment equipment is essential to doing the job right. sure you can get it in the ballpark but why bother when you can get it done right for a reasonable cost.
Talking 4 X 2 b/c a 4 X 4 is different. We're also assuming that all bushings are in nominal condition. A standard alignment shop with good instrumentation can provide you with a printed report as to caster, camber and toe in as compared with factory specs. Start there.
They can correct toe-in. They can replace the relevant bushings. If after all that there are significant caster/camber variances, they should be able to tell you whether this is due to wear in the kingpins or not. They should be able to replace the kingpins or direct you to someone else who can. The last resort as already pointed out is to have the beams bent back into shape. This is the point where I would start to think about buying new dropped I beams or just new beams.
Twin I Beams, before trying to align it, check kingpins for play. If kingpin bushings are shot, no alignment is gonna help. Your twin I beams set the camber, if it was ever right and now is off, it indicates wear. The passenger side typically takes a beating du to that being where the roadway has rougher edges, more holes too.
How exactly do I check the king pin for wear? I’m assuming jack that wheel off the ground and push/pull the top of the tire and check for movement? I really appreciate the quick responses on a Saturday, this group really is amazing!
How exactly do I check the king pin for wear? I’m assuming jack that wheel off the ground and push/pull the top of the tire and check for movement? I really appreciate the quick responses on a Saturday, this group really is amazing!
Yes top & bottom.
Just watch for loose wheel bearings as they can rock and feel like the pins are loose.
The other thing I would do is get a bar under the tire and lift to see if it moved up & down because the shims are bad.
Dave ----
I'll bet dimes to doughnuts that the tire / wheel is leaning because of a loose kingpin, but it could be wheel bearings. If you jack it by the I-beam and vigorously shake the tire / wheel grasping at top and bottom and if you feel a looseness, then try the same shaking grabbing it at front and rear. If still loose, look closer at wheel bearings. Think of a hammer, the angle of the head is directly controlled by the angle you hold the long handle. The I-beam has a pivot point on the opposite side of the truck, it swings through an arc as the suspension cycles and so does the tire / wheel. I've seen guys change out kingpins in the driveway. Bent I-beam is a possibility, but it would take a serious blow, like a wreck.
There are rubber bushings at the inner ends of I beams but I doubt even one that was shot would alter camber that much. You may need to look to a larger type truck repair facility or a Ford dealer that sells trucks. My 2012 SD 2wd still has twin I beam. Have you installed wider tires with flatter foot print and maybe a little positive off set since 10 years ago? Would amplify a already existing problem. Would take a lot of force to bend an I beam, as others I would go with the worn king pin bushings. In the mid 70's Ford experimented with nylon bushings on the king pins. My Mom's 78 E-150 had to have them replaced under warranty.
For camber to be off as much as he is showing the bushings (top & bottom), pin and the spindle I would think would be worn.
The bushings are not that thick that if the top & bottom were worn to kick it that much in my book.
I also dont think even if the rubber pivot bushing was not there at all would it show that much?
Dave ----
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