Preparing for a Long Tow
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4wd High
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 9
Likes: 1
Preparing for a Long Tow
Hi, I have a 1991 F250 7.3 IDI N/A ZF5 4.10
I’m going to be towing a 6500 lbs horse trailer across the country in may (WA to MS). My truck weighs in at the scale at 7000 with full fuel tanks, so I figure after I put some stuff in the bed I’ll be at about 14000 gcrw all and all
The truck has a small head gasket leak so I'm getting the heads done before I go. I’m also planning on installing an aftermarket water temp gauge.
Since i’ve bought the truck last summer I’ve overhauled the front brakes, the front wheel bearings, flushed the cooling system with distilled water and put in fleet guard.
I’ve got two questions
Thanks, This is my first diesel and I've really appreciated all the help I’ve found on the forums so far.
I’m going to be towing a 6500 lbs horse trailer across the country in may (WA to MS). My truck weighs in at the scale at 7000 with full fuel tanks, so I figure after I put some stuff in the bed I’ll be at about 14000 gcrw all and all
The truck has a small head gasket leak so I'm getting the heads done before I go. I’m also planning on installing an aftermarket water temp gauge.
Since i’ve bought the truck last summer I’ve overhauled the front brakes, the front wheel bearings, flushed the cooling system with distilled water and put in fleet guard.
I’ve got two questions
- how heavy of a load is this for the IDI? I know it will be slow. I see many many people talking about hauling much heavier loads on the forums. What can I expect as far as getting up far and steep grades? What rpms and water temps should I be expecting or worried about?
- Any other recommendations of things to check, test, or replace before setting out?
Thanks, This is my first diesel and I've really appreciated all the help I’ve found on the forums so far.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,623
Likes: 5,634
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
welcome to FTE.
14,000 is not all that much for the 7.3 with 4.10 gears and 5 speed.
your two most important things are going to be working trailer brakes,
and good load range "E" tires set at proper air pressure.
a turbo and tune up will help, but is not really needed if the truck is in otherwise good shape.
14,000 is not all that much for the 7.3 with 4.10 gears and 5 speed.
your two most important things are going to be working trailer brakes,
and good load range "E" tires set at proper air pressure.
a turbo and tune up will help, but is not really needed if the truck is in otherwise good shape.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 995
Likes: 367
From: Republic of Texas
Insure all your PM's are done, kick the tires every stop, keep a steady pace, take photos as you go, enjoy the drive. Do not be shocked how often you need to top off the dinosaur tank it will be thirsty..
It is not a dragster so it will take a few days to do.
It is not a dragster so it will take a few days to do.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,519
Likes: 224
From: Nevada
If you have a shop do your heads, hard telling what coolant and hose water they throw back it.
Shame to loose your new coolant and distiller water with what ever they mix it with.
Make sure the Drive line is good, IE U-joints etc.
I agree your truck will make it just fine.
Charlie
Shame to loose your new coolant and distiller water with what ever they mix it with.
Make sure the Drive line is good, IE U-joints etc.
I agree your truck will make it just fine.
Charlie
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 554
Likes: 186
Install a pyrometer! The factory cooling system is good for even larger loads, but unless your truck had the pump turned down its very easy to get the exhaust temperatures in the uncomfortable zone (over 1100 degrees).
Fully loaded to the factory suggested 17k GCVW mine lives around 215-220 on the coolant temp, 230-235-ish on the oil, and I believe around 900 on the pyro, this is keeping up with the 18-wheelers on the flats. I'm turbocharged tho, but you'll be around those numbers as well.
Fully loaded to the factory suggested 17k GCVW mine lives around 215-220 on the coolant temp, 230-235-ish on the oil, and I believe around 900 on the pyro, this is keeping up with the 18-wheelers on the flats. I'm turbocharged tho, but you'll be around those numbers as well.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,312
Likes: 327
From: San Antonio, TX
As already noted, checking all your fluids and doing your preventative maintenance would be a good idea - don't forget the diff and trans. Fresh fuel filter. Replace your wiper blades if they're iffy. Check date codes on tires on truck and trailer. Belts and hoses. Make sure you have a good roadside emergency kit if you have any issues. Some thoughts on a good kit here - https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/...ol-kit.230911/
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,519
Likes: 224
From: Nevada
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 144
Likes: 16
From: Fratt, TX
Install a pyrometer! The factory cooling system is good for even larger loads, but unless your truck had the pump turned down its very easy to get the exhaust temperatures in the uncomfortable zone (over 1100 degrees).
Fully loaded to the factory suggested 17k GCVW mine lives around 215-220 on the coolant temp, 230-235-ish on the oil, and I believe around 900 on the pyro, this is keeping up with the 18-wheelers on the flats. I'm turbocharged tho, but you'll be around those numbers as well.
Fully loaded to the factory suggested 17k GCVW mine lives around 215-220 on the coolant temp, 230-235-ish on the oil, and I believe around 900 on the pyro, this is keeping up with the 18-wheelers on the flats. I'm turbocharged tho, but you'll be around those numbers as well.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,739
Likes: 181
From: Western Mass
I'll pass on the first half of that question, but best place for pyrometer is as close cylinders as possible. Drill and tap the exhaust manifold, its not that hard to do. I believe I did mine on the drivers side from below drilling in about where the last cylinder meets the tube the manifold. I either went straight up, or from the side through the wheel well. Make sure you have good safety glasses on if you are drilling from below.
Thread Starter
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4wd High
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 9
Likes: 1
Thanks so much for all the replies, all sounds like good advice! Nice to hear y'all think its not to much of a load on the truck.
@@Charmalu Good point! I talked to the shop and they said they would check the sca's on the coolant I have in there and put it back in if its good.
@@Robfinger I've never installed an pyrometer before and it sounds a little intimidating to drill into the exhaust manifold but I'm going to look into it more. What happens if your exhaust temperatures get too high?
@@Charmalu Good point! I talked to the shop and they said they would check the sca's on the coolant I have in there and put it back in if its good.
@@Robfinger I've never installed an pyrometer before and it sounds a little intimidating to drill into the exhaust manifold but I'm going to look into it more. What happens if your exhaust temperatures get too high?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,739
Likes: 181
From: Western Mass
Thanks so much for all the replies, all sounds like good advice! Nice to hear y'all think its not to much of a load on the truck.
@@Charmalu Good point! I talked to the shop and they said they would check the sca's on the coolant I have in there and put it back in if its good.
@@Robfinger I've never installed an pyrometer before and it sounds a little intimidating to drill into the exhaust manifold but I'm going to look into it more. What happens if your exhaust temperatures get too high?
@@Charmalu Good point! I talked to the shop and they said they would check the sca's on the coolant I have in there and put it back in if its good.
@@Robfinger I've never installed an pyrometer before and it sounds a little intimidating to drill into the exhaust manifold but I'm going to look into it more. What happens if your exhaust temperatures get too high?
Drilling cast iron is pretty easy, with a good drill bit, you don't even need to use oil, it cuts pretty easily. It can be a little difficult to get in the right position and hold the drill steady though. However, if you are getting the head gaskets done, the manifolds are coming off, so you could drill it on the bench. Alternatively, if you're getting a shop to do the head work, they could install the pyrometer probe as well.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 554
Likes: 186
My probe is in the driver-side manifold, between the last 2 cylinders I think. I was recommended to put it there because those cylinders fire right after each other so that creates the hottest spot in the exhaust system.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 144
Likes: 16
From: Fratt, TX
I used to run some marine unit, don't recall the brand but it was Italian I think and not terribly priced normally and I got it on sale on top of that. It had an amplifier box which gave me trouble later on (think it got wet from a firewall leak), not a major concern right now as my truck is currently in storage and once back on the road it will never again haul the loads it used to, but eventually I'll be looking at another marine unit as it seems that things that go on boats generally tend to be of a higher quality than general automotive parts.
My probe is in the driver-side manifold, between the last 2 cylinders I think. I was recommended to put it there because those cylinders fire right after each other so that creates the hottest spot in the exhaust system.
My probe is in the driver-side manifold, between the last 2 cylinders I think. I was recommended to put it there because those cylinders fire right after each other so that creates the hottest spot in the exhaust system.