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Old Mar 20, 2022 | 02:32 AM
  #31  
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That pump came off your truck? Any identifying markings for a make? That thing looks older than what was supposed to be in it's place.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2022 | 12:43 PM
  #32  
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yep thats what i pulled off of her. No stampings anywhere I was wanting to cross it and see what it actually fit
 
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Old Mar 20, 2022 | 01:31 PM
  #33  
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From: Ponca City, OK
The brass inlet and outlet make me think old Carter or Walbro, but really just a WAG.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2022 | 02:51 PM
  #34  
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Just ran a buzz test with the valve covers off, I cant feel injector #1 cycling. Is it typical for a wiring harness to fail individually or on an entire bank?
 
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Old Mar 20, 2022 | 03:17 PM
  #35  
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Valve cover gaskets and injectors ohm out, about 3.1
 
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Old Mar 20, 2022 | 03:34 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by bomccorkle
Valve cover gaskets and injectors ohm out, about 3.1
3.1 is great. Can you post a pic of the UVCH connector? It should be solid with that resistance but would be nice to see it fully engaged and not coming loose. No burned/melted connections?

One injector wire can be bad but the IDM will shut down the entire bank under certain conditions.

Not sure what you meant by injector 1 cycling?
 
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Old Mar 20, 2022 | 04:34 PM
  #37  
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Cycling off of the buzz test.

I just checked the ohms at the 42 pin at the DS VC, everything was about 3.2 again. Was getting ready to chase to the IDM when I had an idea, I have a spare UVCH so i just set it on top of the current one upside down and plugged it and cyl #1 in. did a buzz test, got nothing from it again.

The terminal ends all look good, I see no arcing or sign in the vain
 
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Old Mar 20, 2022 | 10:08 PM
  #38  
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Might try hooking #1 to the connector for another stick, just to be 100%. Other than that it sounds like you've just about found your smoking gun.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 08:03 AM
  #39  
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I was thinking that swapping the injector to another hole would help confirm it too.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2022 | 05:19 PM
  #40  
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I have a new one on the way, if that doesnt solve it I guess I will be ordering an IDM
 
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Old Mar 25, 2022 | 08:13 PM
  #41  
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Replaced injector #1, running far better, I am still getting a code for 1,3,&5, 5 sounded terrible on the buzz test so I think I am going to drive it a couple days then order a replacement for it
 
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Old Mar 25, 2022 | 10:00 PM
  #42  
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Are the codes CCT failures or electrical high low something or other? If CCT I wouldn't get to worked up, definitely not until getting #5 buzzing strong. That CCT test can be very inaccurate I've found and can send you on the old wild goose chase if you let it. If the codes are electrical then I would be inclined to do a little multimeter detective work to rule things out.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2022 | 12:15 AM
  #43  
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high/low with the cct. have chased the wiring to the IDM and all looks good
 
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Old Mar 29, 2022 | 06:37 PM
  #44  
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Okay, so I replaced injector one. I took it for a spin and was getting an intermittent miss, it would run like crap then clear up blow some black smoke and get moving, then back to the miss, rinse and repeat.

I had thought that the buzz on #5 sounded off so I went ahead and ordered an injector for it assuming that I had another one sticking. I went and pulled the VC since the injector is due to arrive tomorrow, did a buzz test and it sounded as good as the rest.

Fired it up with no Passenger Side VC, all squirting oil as it runs, even when it is missing.

Took temps at the manifolds, they all run about 190ish except #3, its 230-240.

Codes P0261 cyl #1 inj circuit low, P1271 #1 high to low open, P1273 #3 high to low open, P1275 #5 high to low open, P1293 injector high side open bank 1, P1294 injector high side open bank 2

So my thoughts are that either
A) I have a failing IDM
B) I have the #3 injector hanging open and dropping fuel in the cylinder raising its temp

I would assume an IDM would drop an entire bank but I am not sure of that

I have chased and ohmed all wiring back to the 42 pin and find nothing suspect there
 
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Old Mar 30, 2022 | 05:17 PM
  #45  
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How does the 9 pin connector on the PS VC cover look? Is the clip on the inside of the VC nice and tight? Getting loosey goosey there is fairly common and leads to burnt pins on the connector and poor running.

Are the codes new? As in current after being cleared recently?
 
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