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Old Mar 10, 2022 | 08:36 PM
  #16  
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From: Ponca City, OK
Here are a couple vids showing an IPR teardown and cleaning. Pretty simple procedure with just a few tool and some brake cleaner


This one goes a little deeper


Hope they help.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2022 | 11:19 PM
  #17  
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did some more testing, no luck



threw the known good IPR in and got pressure.



Hooked everything up and off and running, except, I have a miss that comes in about 1600 RPM or when I punch it.



Going to replace fuel filter and check pressures, still have CEL. will report back.





I have disassembled and cleaned the old IPR, it was a bit sticky. Is there a way to check these? It was an OEM dealer bought part, can't believe that's all the life it had.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2022 | 08:09 AM
  #18  
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From: Ponca City, OK
Good to hear you made some headway. If it's a dealer part less than 2 years old you can take it back. The cleaning may have fixed it though. There isn't any real reliable bench test either.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2022 | 07:53 PM
  #19  
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Went ahead and slammed a new fuel filter in it, cycled the key to prime it. fired it up and let it run about 20 minutes to get any air out of the fuel system.

Even worse now, struggling to move, only went around the block, with the throttle half open made it to a whopping 7 MPH, running very rough

Plan to pull the fuel line at the pump and put a gage on it and see what I get
 
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Old Mar 15, 2022 | 11:18 PM
  #20  
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From: Ponca City, OK
Are you sure you got the stand pipe seated all the way in the base of the bowl? That would probably be my first stop. I always ask myself, what's the last thing I could have screwed up, and it usually leads me to the issue. If you're unfamiliar, the tube that the filter slides onto is the stand pipe. It has a plunger in the bottom of to prevent an ”Old Faithful” type event if the cap isn't fully seated.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2022 | 12:10 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by bomccorkle
Went ahead and slammed a new fuel filter in it, cycled the key to prime it. fired it up and let it run about 20 minutes to get any air out of the fuel system.

Even worse now, struggling to move, only went around the block, with the throttle half open made it to a whopping 7 MPH, running very rough

Plan to pull the fuel line at the pump and put a gage on it and see what I get
Any smoke? What color?

Pull the FP from the discharge of the fuel bowl drain, the yellow lever. Much easier and also shows any issues up to that point.

Basic directions are in the 7.3 tech folder stickied at top of forum.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2022 | 05:47 PM
  #22  
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got fuel pressure up to about 45 PSI KOEO, then noticed that the petcock was leaking diesel everywhere
 
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Old Mar 16, 2022 | 06:07 PM
  #23  
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I had a moment of I think brilliance fellas, here is a link to it running. Oddly enough when I fired it this time it ran well then downhill from there, almost like there was enough fuel for a bit then the pump couldnt keep up



 
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Old Mar 16, 2022 | 08:27 PM
  #24  
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From: Ponca City, OK
Yeah you need to pick up a 0-100 water oil gas gauge, a npt x barb, 5-6 ft of fuel injection hose, and a couple clamps. Hook the gauge to the barb to the hose. Other end of the hose goes on the bowl drain valve. Cycle the key see what ya get, start it up see if it falls off. You should see around 60-65 but 40+ is acceptable.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2022 | 07:36 PM
  #25  
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So, changed the petcock and took another gage reading, about 45 PSI on the prime then as it ran it grew up towards 70, just a couple PSI of flutter on blipping the throttle but I found it odd that after it ran a couple of minutes it went up.



I shut the drain valve off and re primed a couple of times, when I did that I was able to get it to run well for a few seconds like at the beginning of the video above, did the same thing about 4 more times and got the same result.



Is it possible that my pump is capable of making pressure but not volume? I would think I would see a gauge behaving very erratically but maybe this pulse is too fast?
 
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Old Mar 18, 2022 | 09:54 PM
  #26  
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From: Ponca City, OK
Do you have the in tank mods done? It kind of sounds like you either have an obstruction or an air leak on the suction side. It shouldn't take anything for it to fill the bowl and pressurize the system. Come to think of it, a fraction of a second throttle blip shouldn't even show up on the gauge. A healthy stock pump is good for 30+ liters/hr and over 100 psi. Might double check the connections on the pump just to rule out corrosion or bad wires, but if the filter screens and all that associated bs is still in the tank I would start planning to drop the tank. A temp fix for the screens is a shot or 2 of shop air back to the tank behind the pump.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2022 | 12:23 AM
  #27  
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I will blast some air thru it tomorrow. As far as I know the tank is stock. Go figure she's full to the top, looks like I'll be pulling the beds if that's the case
 
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Old Mar 19, 2022 | 06:57 AM
  #28  
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I haven't read the whole thread but if your tank is full, the hutch mod wouldn't solve the problem. Have you tried blowing air back from the fuel pump? Not much pressure, just enough to blow any debris off of the suction tube in the tank.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2022 | 07:15 PM
  #29  
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Just pulled the fuel pump and blew air in the tank. although it didnt solve my problem its amazing what some jacklegs will do. The rear QC was held in with a zip tie and the pump didnt even fit the factory holder so it was zip tied in as well. The nipple that gets changed out did not fit the factory bosch pump so the boy and I ran to the shop and machined one ourselves. The whole mess turned an hour job into a day long one. I am guessing at this point that I will take temps on the manifolds and see if I can locate anything before I begin to pull valve covers.


 
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Old Mar 19, 2022 | 07:50 PM
  #30  
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Just checked the temps on the manifolds
Just a startup the DS is about 110
Passenger side is 65, and its the side I checked second

Guessing I have a loose hold down or nicked seal on that side.

Will pull that valve cover and check back in once I know anything else
 
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