cab bushings
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 554
Likes: 186
Big sawzall, Milwaukee Torch blades, soak the old rubber in WD40 overnight beforehand. You did get the bolts out, right, they ain't stuck? And you're new kid does come with the steel snout thing said bolts pass thru?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 1,838
Likes: 367
From: Candy Mountain
I am in the middle of this project...
Cleaning up the threads on the mounting bolts made my life a lot better getting the old bolts out. Penetrating oil, wire brush, and I actually ran a die up and down the portions I could. I am going to need a helper on one as the mount is spinning.
I have successfully used the provided press set up to separate one set of bushings, but it failed on the second. The threaded rod is bending...
So, I am planning to get a 5/8 drill bit and drilling out the fitted towers from inside the cab, unless someone has a reason I shouldn't do this... The other notions I have seen is to beat them apart with a hammer or cut them apart with a saw.
Cleaning up the threads on the mounting bolts made my life a lot better getting the old bolts out. Penetrating oil, wire brush, and I actually ran a die up and down the portions I could. I am going to need a helper on one as the mount is spinning.
I have successfully used the provided press set up to separate one set of bushings, but it failed on the second. The threaded rod is bending...
So, I am planning to get a 5/8 drill bit and drilling out the fitted towers from inside the cab, unless someone has a reason I shouldn't do this... The other notions I have seen is to beat them apart with a hammer or cut them apart with a saw.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,782
Likes: 878
From: Foothills of NC
My bushings are starting to sag, and slightly crack. You guys are certainly not making me want to get under there and take on this project anytime soon.
Does no one sell the whole 9 yards where you just unbolt, and bolt new in?
Does no one sell the whole 9 yards where you just unbolt, and bolt new in?
Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 51
Likes: 6
From: SJ TX
Couldnt find the OE cab sleeves that the bolt passes through for my bronco but I know a guy who custom makes them and tig welds them together that sells on ebay. Very good quality and comes with all new bolts washers and such, I used energy suspension poly bushings on top of them. I would cut the old sleeves out
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 6,185
Likes: 633
From: Houston/Sugar Land
I plan on doing mine someday and saved this information from a forum thread. It sounds like it would work well but I haven't tried it.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ab-mounts.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ab-mounts.html
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 92
Likes: 4
Bushings should be in the mail today. I'll go ahead and start spraying lubricant on everything and tackle it this weekend. Sounds like a tedious job for sure. Thanks for the tips
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,333
Likes: 296
I did mine years ago.
Leave the bolt in place but back it off so it is only a couple thread turns into the lower nut and then you smack the heck out of bolt with a BFH trying to drive the bolt downward.
Use lots of penetrate fluid too.
About the time you are thinking it is a useless exercise it will [hopefully] come apart.
The upper sleeve and the lower sleeve interlock.
Once you get them apart you will want to wire wheel them clean.
Then cut off the flared part of the sleeve that locks into the opposing side before reassembling so it is easier to separate next time
If you just cut the sleeve apart with a sawzall while it is in the truck's frame you are weakening the ability of the mount to stay rigidly mounted and in place.
One mount cut apart with sawzall like this may not cause a problem but if you just cut them all off like this there is more chance of problems.
You will need patience for this project and your arm will be tired from swinging that BFH at awkward angles.
Depending on the rust level, this may take all day to do. Usually the core support mounts are the most difficult to remove of all of them.
Leave the bolt in place but back it off so it is only a couple thread turns into the lower nut and then you smack the heck out of bolt with a BFH trying to drive the bolt downward.
Use lots of penetrate fluid too.
About the time you are thinking it is a useless exercise it will [hopefully] come apart.
The upper sleeve and the lower sleeve interlock.
Once you get them apart you will want to wire wheel them clean.
Then cut off the flared part of the sleeve that locks into the opposing side before reassembling so it is easier to separate next time
If you just cut the sleeve apart with a sawzall while it is in the truck's frame you are weakening the ability of the mount to stay rigidly mounted and in place.
One mount cut apart with sawzall like this may not cause a problem but if you just cut them all off like this there is more chance of problems.
You will need patience for this project and your arm will be tired from swinging that BFH at awkward angles.
Depending on the rust level, this may take all day to do. Usually the core support mounts are the most difficult to remove of all of them.
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FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 12,344
Likes: 1,319
From: Central Mississippi
I did the energy suspension full kit with bolts. Worth every penny.
Didn't need to destroy/cut anything, save the core support mounts, (real mother for'ya) but I guess advantage of GA 1 owner truck.
Didn't need to destroy/cut anything, save the core support mounts, (real mother for'ya) but I guess advantage of GA 1 owner truck.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 1,838
Likes: 367
From: Candy Mountain
With the kit the OP bought there is no need to save any of the hardware, except the large washers under the bolt heads.
At the end of the day yesterday I put a bolt in the bottom of the mount that wasn't coming apart and filled that sucker with penetrating oil from the top. Removed the little bolt from the bottom this morning, stuck a long grade 8 bolt in from the top and went to town with a hammer, and it came apart pretty quick. So, now I have all the hardware apart, and lower mounts off except for the driver side rear, which I am going to need a helper to get the bolt out due to the mount spinning...
My advice to the OP... once you get the mounting bolts out, put a bolt back in from underneath and fill those suckers up with penetrating oil and let em soak before you try to separate them.
At the end of the day yesterday I put a bolt in the bottom of the mount that wasn't coming apart and filled that sucker with penetrating oil from the top. Removed the little bolt from the bottom this morning, stuck a long grade 8 bolt in from the top and went to town with a hammer, and it came apart pretty quick. So, now I have all the hardware apart, and lower mounts off except for the driver side rear, which I am going to need a helper to get the bolt out due to the mount spinning...
My advice to the OP... once you get the mounting bolts out, put a bolt back in from underneath and fill those suckers up with penetrating oil and let em soak before you try to separate them.
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
With the kit the OP bought there is no need to save any of the hardware, except the large washers under the bolt heads.
At the end of the day yesterday I put a bolt in the bottom of the mount that wasn't coming apart and filled that sucker with penetrating oil from the top. Removed the little bolt from the bottom this morning, stuck a long grade 8 bolt in from the top and went to town with a hammer, and it came apart pretty quick. So, now I have all the hardware apart, and lower mounts off except for the driver side rear, which I am going to need a helper to get the bolt out due to the mount spinning...
My advice to the OP... once you get the mounting bolts out, put a bolt back in from underneath and fill those suckers up with penetrating oil and let em soak before you try to separate them.
At the end of the day yesterday I put a bolt in the bottom of the mount that wasn't coming apart and filled that sucker with penetrating oil from the top. Removed the little bolt from the bottom this morning, stuck a long grade 8 bolt in from the top and went to town with a hammer, and it came apart pretty quick. So, now I have all the hardware apart, and lower mounts off except for the driver side rear, which I am going to need a helper to get the bolt out due to the mount spinning...
My advice to the OP... once you get the mounting bolts out, put a bolt back in from underneath and fill those suckers up with penetrating oil and let em soak before you try to separate them.
So S&B supplies new steel hardware with the bushings?
Good to know
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 1,838
Likes: 367
From: Candy Mountain
Removal tool, mounting bolts, hardware, bushings, assorted shims... it is a well put together kit. Only things I have reused is the extra large washers on the rear cab bolts, and at the radiator core support.
I am just about done with my install, and am happy with everything. The cab is just a touch proud compared to the bed, but I assume it will settle a bit over time.
I am just about done with my install, and am happy with everything. The cab is just a touch proud compared to the bed, but I assume it will settle a bit over time.
Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 51
Likes: 6
From: SJ TX
Sharing this here for anyone who cannot find replacements for future reference.
Ebay store with locating sleeves/bushings, not affiliated
https://ebay.com/usr/vintage4x4
Ebay store with locating sleeves/bushings, not affiliated
https://ebay.com/usr/vintage4x4
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 116
Likes: 31
From: Langley B.C.
Any chance you could measure the height of each new mount down one side of truck from where they touch the frame to cab. I don't see that dimension on the SB site and want to check if my stock mounts are indeed sagging.