got some questions here...
First off, my 6 cyl engine is starting to give me some kick back when i moderately accelerate on a cold start. Its kind of annoying and would like to know what is causing it. When i accelerate you can feel the truck have a stop and go accel like when you are running out of gas, but not so much like it, it just happens randomly and sometimes heavily. It really eats up the power. I hope you get the picture.
Next, when i get that fixed - or if i ever fix it, I was wondering what maintanance/modefication tips anyone has to increase or just to better the performance from my 6 cyl enigine. (maybe even drop a new one in?)
Email me please if you need more information!
I'd like to get this problem fixed THANX!

 

First you need a major tune up done to include looked over items like the fuel filter & PCV valve.Even if you recently changed plugs, get you another set. I don't trust any plugs to be good, new or old,becuase they fail under a load.While you are at it, remove the air snorkel and clean the throttle bores & flaps with a toothbrush & solvent,while holding the throttle open.Also remove the air bypass valve & solenoid far a cleaning as well.Just the last 2 tips will probably solve your hesitation, but a good tune up will make you & the truck feel better.
Phillip

 

Dear Phillip,
THANKS for your advice, I see you know a lot about this problem and have helped several other people with similar problems. But there's one problem - I have no experience under the hood. I live in the San Diego area. Should I take my truck back to my Ford dealer? or should i take it to a certified Ford mechanic/shop. Or even an independant shop. My parents hate replacing anything taht isn't broke and have this phylosophy, If its running its fine. I say BS to that... i guess that's why this truck is starting to fail. So what do you think?

1)Can i trust a Ford dealer's mechanic?
2)Can i trust someone else?
and
3)HOW MUCH (estimate)
thanks again

 

If you are not goin' to do it yourself, search for a dedicated tune-up shop like Jiffy Tune or Precision Tune. Their tech's deal strictly with driveability problems such as hesitation,fuel consumption & emissions output and usually only deal with the problem at hand,but, if mileage dictates, they WILL do a major tune up and charge you for it. Scrubbing the throttle body & air bypass valve will be extra and you should dictate that it get's done while the truck is in for service.Finally,you can usually get good service from a Vo-Tech or College with an Auto Repair program, they always need candidates to work on,and the labor is usually free, just the price of parts.
Phillip

 

i had the same problem with my truck. i have a 1993 f150 with the I-6 and all i did was change the plugs, wires, rotor and distributor cap and it fixed it fine.

 

Thanks Mat, That's sounds like a good idea for now... especially with my budget.

anyone have any other sugestions? theyre all useful

Thanks!

 

My 90 was doing the same thing. Spending $70 at the dealer with their computer came up inconclusive. My fix was the coil. It has moisture in it because of it's location. (down low on the side of the engine). I also changed the wires, plugs, rotor button and cap.

 

I just went through the same problem. Turned out to be the EGR valve. Quick EGR test: On a cold engine, disconnect the vacuum line from the EGR actuator and plug the vacuum line, then go for a drive (The check engine light will come on in a few minutes- just ignore it) If the engine runs smoothly, the problem is a gummed-up EGR valve.
The only solution is to replace the valve. Ford dealers get about $145.00 for the replacement (ouch).

 

egr valve replacement has to be the easiest replacement there is..on mine anyways....i have a 92 w/ 302. unscrew 3 screws, pop the old one out, pop the new one in. it is right at the top of the engine. the sensor was $35 at champion auto.

 

>egr valve replacement has to be
>the easiest replacement there is..on
>mine anyways....i have a 92
>w/ 302. unscrew 3 screws,
>pop the old one out,
>pop the new one in.
>it is right at the
>top of the engine. the
>sensor was $35 at champion
>auto.

What you replaced was not the EGR valve- it was the EGR valve position sensor (EVP). It is extremely easy to replace them but is harder to replace the EGR valve itself due to possible corrosion of the attaching nut. Over the years and heat from the engine will cause the valve to solidly attach itself and you most likely will have a difficult time loosening things.

Dustin Siebert
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/gear/40