I had a '19 F250 that did have that wobble feeling, not at the "death" level yet. I installed the Skyjacker dual steering stabilizer and I instantly noticed a lot better driving experience. I also changed my shocks to SJ 95Ms. The ride is a lot more enjoyable now.





I did level it as well, 1.5"



I had to change my shoes. The 35x12.50 KO2s look and ride so nice, especially after changing my TPMS range and lowering tire pressure to 45 psi.

 

steering stabilizers and new shocks are a must. I have the PMF dual bracket with bilstiens. Also changed out the single OE with a bilstien and its a nice improvement. The OE shocks failed with less than 5k..so I installed the 5160's all around. Everything improved the ride

 

I got my 2017 F250 (gas) fixed by Ford. They found the death wobble was caused by a broken steering dampener. So what you are saying is keep that one and add a stabilizer like the OP had? Is that beneficial for a stock height truck with stock tires and according to them, the joints are all good but I am looking into a track bar.

 

The "cause" of your death wobble was not the steering damper. Yes, it was likely a bad part but not the cause.

Steering stabilizer and steering damper are the same thing. Doesn't matter if it's gas charged or not. Damper is a word that is also used interchangeably with shock, again regardless of whether it is gas charged or not. The factory steering damper on the 17-19 was not gas charged, but I think the upgraded part, the one that replaced your original, is. Same with the unit that comes on the '20+.

 

I would be getting the track bar replaced with a better one. Think that's going to cure it?

 

It's possible that a new track bar will fix it, if there is currently some wear in the bushing and/or ball joint. If there are other worn parts that are contributing to the DW then maybe not. The new steering damper/stabilizer may keep it at bay for awhile as is, but the root cause would be elsewhere.

 

Carmax and Ford didn't find anything loose so no idea where to go besides the track bar. Maybe an alignment after the installation. Follow factory specs as closely as possible, I suspect.

 

Wandering/looseness/play anything in that realm will not be cured by a steering stabilizer. Depending on the specific type they can be used to correct for tire pull. But IMO most people will appreciate them most for controlling bump steer and the like.

Everyone seems to think they really need a steering stabilizer. I'd bet 75% of the time they need new tie rod or drag link ends, or ball joints. Then 24% of the time it's something odd like a u-joint in the steering stem or the steerin box itself. Seriously like 1% of people need a steering stabilizer upgrade or replacement to deal with their steering issue. But instead 99% think they do.

Go make sure everything is tight in the front end before you go off on the stabilizer tangent. I ran my 2005 Dodge Ram Diesel on 37's for 10 years without a steering stabilizer. Only time I missed it was potholes. They are useful, but in most cases I'm saying they are a band aid masking an issue.

 

I replaced a newly replaced OEM stab with a Bilstien. Before, I could feel DW starting to rear its ugly head, and actually did once on some really bad potholes, and all the steering components were new. After I can feel it wanting to do it, but it is quickly dampened. It is more of a steering damper than a stabilizer. The true fix is more caster, at least on mine, feels like a shopping cart that has been abused and just at that point where the front wheels want to wobble.

 

How do you go about it? They checked it in the air and neither of us felt anything. I agree that a stabilizer is not necessary if there are no potholes or loose components but so far, there is no more DW. Maybe I don't feel it anymore because of the dampner but I didn't see any loose components. Short of just pulling everything off and checking, in which case, you might as well replace since it may break coming out, what else can we try? TIA

 

You can't check for worn components in the air.

Have a friend move the steering wheel back and forth while the motor is running and your stopped.. you don't have to move it quickly, but you can't move it slow.

Physically feel every single joint when your finger between the rod and the bolted connection. If there's any movement up/down or side to side, the joint is worn.

You can check for loose ball joints in the air, but that's about it.

The above test will also show if your truck bar rubber joint is worn. (Most likely the problem)

Why do these front ends wear out? Because people have a tendency to dry steer the system. Dry steering is turning glthe wheels with the wheels stopped. When you have a heavy front end, with large tires, you put a tremendous amount of strain on the steering system. Stop dry steering the system and your components will last...

Worn components is one, alignment is another. Just because "you're in the green" doesn't mean you're in alignment. You could have a very slight toe out condition qnd still be "in spec" but the truck will drive and want to follow ruts in the road easily.

Aim for 4-5.5ish degrees of caster (yes. That's more than the factory, but the factory is more concerned with having a easy to turn wheel so people don't complain the steering is too hard) and 1/8" toe In when measured at the outside of the wheel (about. 2 degrees positive when you look at a sheet)

This 10000%, say it louder so the people in the back with 50 stabilizers in the back can hear

 

This is the best answer to permanently fixing DW. At some point I need to get mine in to a truck shop and have them align the caster correctly. All the components were brand new when I bought the truck but sure enough, hit a pot hole that sent the front end into a tizzy. The OEM new stabilizer didn't do much, but the Bilstien did. For now its OK, I can feel it trying to wobble on certain bumps, so until I do get a shop to correct the caster, its doing fine.

 

The problem with trying to use bushings to adjust camber or caster is that if you change 1, it will negatively impact the other….these adjustments are done by installing a bushing that is either fixed position or adjustable which changes the axis of the upper hub spindle.


If you want to increase castor, you can alternatively leave you the upper hub spindle at the correct camber….then use a pinion arm drop bracket to increase caster.

just an option.

 

Did you take it to your dealer for the stabilizer recall? Free replacement with heavy duty stabilizer. Stopped mine and 45K trouble free miles.