I keep my SD in the barn because we mainly only use it for towing. I keep the hood propped open with a drop light to keep the mice away. With the hood up you can't remote start it. I found that it's the hood latch switch that prevents this. I unplugged the plug and put a jumper wire across the pins and the truck starts fine. I would like to make a shorting plug to plug into that connector. Anybody know what kind of plug I need? A Amazon or eBay link would be great..

i could cut the wire and use the other half of the plug but want to leave it so I can put it back to stock

Thanks

 

Quick search on Ford site shows just “latch”, so they may only sell it as a unit which is $100.

I would go out and take pictures of the connector and try to see any numbers on it.

Type those in google along with descriptors and start searching. When you think you found it, go on stockwiseauto.com.

I accidentally discovered this site when looking for the f150 small side mirror connectors to adapt a set to my super duty.

Its cross reference of interchangeable parts is impressive and helpful at least in my area as newer vehicles dont end up in the pick your part area of the yards usually.

Was able to see that they had 3 of the connectors I needed up high on a vehicle, which is important for junkyards cuz it makes it easier for you to pick and you dont have to lie in filth.

Screen shot or right down the vehicles and start looking.

Here is an example of how the site will look. It will even tell you how many of the connectors are there. It said one but I found two others that were close enough after working them over with snips and that is why it says “3x” as I was making a write up of the swap before everyone on this site told me I was crazy.

Edit: Read your post better. If I understand you correctly now, my added advice would be to try and take the connector it plugs into off a junkyard latch, jump it and seal it up with a big piece of shrink tubing and plug that into your harness.

Able to post pics of situation?

Also I would definitely try to not make the mod permanent and remember to pop it back when taking it in for any service, to avoid the however slight chance of somebody remote starting it with a mechanic under the hood.

 

I found this.. Not sure it's it until I look at it again but not worth $119 for a pigtail
https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/wi...lA1nx7yNtVE%3D

 

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...UaAkWAEALw_wcB

Looks like this is just the switch

 

I don’t know what the connector looks like, but browse around these sites and see if you can find it and the matching pins.

I’ve ordered from both sites a few times and they are GTG. Tho Eastern Beaver did take a few weeks to get my last order to me.

http://www.cycleterminal.com/motorcycle-connectors.html


http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/El...onnectors.html

 

OK, the hood must be propped open to allow for the drop light cord, or is an open hood part of the anti mice strategy?

If you can close the hood, try getting a couple of incredible bright LED drop lights and put them under the truck. Or maybe the cord can be passed under the hood from the rear, in front of the windshield.

If you want the hood open, I'd be looking for a way to hold the switch closed with a piece of wood or small locking pliers.

 

After seeing both connectors and prices, I would give junkyard a look, OR use a zip tie or two to hold that plunger down and snip it when you want to return it to operation OR jump connector with diy brass terminal deally and then seal both connectors from elements with either shrink wrap or some rubber end caps from Ace hardware or the like made more pliable with a heat gun OR as neat a job as I could do with electrical tape and call it done.

 

I wonder if an old fashioned bicycle lock or something could be jammed into the latch to make the switch think the hood is closed?


The switch looks to be right there

 

Yeah, talk about us possibly overthinking it. KU4OJ with the so simple it is brilliant idea. You might not even need to latch any thing in there. it may be enough to pop the hood and with your hand or a screwjy, just push latch into closed position.

If that works, just make sure to release the latch before slamming the hood shut and wonking up the latch or maybe even the aluminum hood.

Update: I went out and tried to close latch with my hand and then a wooden dowel for leverage and couldnt. Finding a latch bar off a hood in yard and screwing it to a 2x4 would be my next move.

 

The hood is open to let sun light in during the day and then the drop light at night.

That latch is impossible to move by hand. I tried pressing it with a piece of wood and a screwdriver.
I could place lights on the ground underneath but the mice nest on the top of engines, so the light needs to be there. I have tried multiple products over the years to keep mice away- light is what works the best- Fresh cab, mothballs, electronic repellers, peppermint, soap,-- all a waste of money

 

sounds like you need some snakes in the barn

 

Then he'd have snakes in the truck.

 

I found the plug I bought the version with the wires on it. Soldered the ends together and put some heat shrink over it. I taped over the end of the female plug that goes to the hood latch switch to keep water out. If I take it in for service I can just remove the tape and plug it back in

 

After all that, let us know if the anti-mice strategy actually works.

If mine sits too long without driving, little birds start making nests.

 

I bought it March 2020 and it's been sitting like that in the barn for two years- no mice so far! I have lights in my camper and in the cabs and under the hoods of my skid steer and compact track loader