Hello, hope everyone is doing good.
I'm looking for some assistance troubleshooting a crank/no start issue on a 1988 Ranger 2.9L, manual transmission 4x4, extended cab.
My son purchased this vehicle from a neighbor as he noticed it had been parked for several years, possibly decades.
We brought it over to the house hoping we could get it started. So far, no luck.
The truck will crank but will not start.
We changed a couple of things before we really got started due to obvious defects. The gas tank and whatever fuel was in it were in bad shape, this also caused the fuel pump/ sending unit to be completely corrode. We replaced the tank and the fuel sending unit with new parts. Also, the started solenoid had completely failed. Car wouldnt crank with a fresh battery, so we replaced that and got the truck cranking. A new fuel filter was also installed.
Some of the things we have confirmed:
-Fuel pressure appears to be correct at the fuel rail (Showing 32psi approx with key "ON" and pump pressure alone)
-Spark (installed new plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor and new coil)
-New fuel regulator installed
-New injectors installed - Also checked 3 random injectors for pulse with noid light, light blinked on all 3 injectors while cranking
-New TFI module installed - Engine light turns on with key to "ON" position, engine light turns off while cranking.
-Engine will run while adding fuel through throttle body. Will keep running as long as fuel is added manually.

Looking for some new fresh ideas on this issue, I cant think of other problems at the moment that would keep the engine from running. Seems like everything needed for the engine to run is there. Sure I've overlooked something, hoping some of the guys here with the experience can point me in the right direction.

 

Welcome to FTE

No replies yet, so will see if I can get things started. You two have been busy on this puppy & good idea to have the son involved in this resurrection experience.
You've posted a good historical account of your resurrection work so far, that in my mind may have a couple of clues imbedded for what sounds like a fuel delivery problem.

Was / has the fuel pressure been measured in a Dynamic mode, while the engine was being Cranked for a start, or while Running when being fed fuel through the throttle body???
This year model has Two fuel pumps, a Low-pressure feed into a High pressure one for the fuel rail. A wimpy pump may be able to make good dead head psi before the injectors start squirting but may not be able to keep up once the engine starts.

Was the fuel line from the tank & fuel rail cleaned out of old fuel & any debris??? Any kinks in the fuel lines that could restrict flow, which should be about 1/2 pt-15sec pump run time???

On this OBD-1 vehicle we have handy access to a fuel pump power lead where the under hood DLC connector resides, that can be used to power the pumps to flush the fuel lines.

Some beginning thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.

 

I forgot to ask if the fuel filter has been replaced???

 

Hello,
thank you for jumping in and helping with some troubleshooting ideas. Apologies for taking a bit to get back, I'm working night swift at the moment and only get so much spare time to play with this project.
As for the the first question,
"Was / has the fuel pressure been measured in a Dynamic mode, while the engine was being Cranked for a start, or while Running when being fed fuel through the throttle body???"
Not initially, but tried it today. With the engine running, while manually feeding fuel, holding around 1000 - 1200 rpms, The gauge is showing a consistent 30psi when connected to the test port in the fuel rail.
With only the key on, no start, I'm seeing 35psi at the moment.
Also, I believe I forgot to mention, we replaced the in-line pump with a new unit.

As for the system flush question. Although we did not perform a thorough flush of the system, we did take the time to ensure most of the contaminants were removed as part of the component replacement process.
Didnt even bother with the fuel and tank sending unit, dropped the whole thing and installed new tank and in-tank unit. The lines were drained when we replaced the 2 pumps and also the filter.
The rail was also drained and semi-flushed when we installed the new injectors. At one point I had the rail removed with injectors installed, flipped upside down. Had my helper crank the truck to visually confirm the injectors were firing. Visually, they were but installed new injectors regardless.

 

Yessir,
new filter installed.

 

Ok, good feedback, doesn't seem like a wimpy fuel pump, or clogged fuel filter belong on the suspect list. Dang, looks like Murphey's Law is gonna make us have to look deeper for more clues, so use, borrow, or come by a scan tool, or code reader that can hook up to the under-hood Ford OBD-1 / EEC--IV diagnostic connector, like a Actron CP-9145 scan tool with the EEC-IV adapter cable, etc & scan for & post All pending or set code Numbers, as they can help focus a trouble shoot.
If you don't want to do that, you could hook up one of these wiring circuits to have the dash trouble code lamp, a 12volt LED lamp, analog multimeter, or even a 12 volt beeper to flash, wave, or beep the codes by following these wiring scenarios. Ford OBD/OBD2 Codes – TroubleCodes.net A code reader or scan tool is easier, to use, more accurate & faster.

There are a number of things still belonging on the suspect list that could cause a lean injector squirt, so maybe a code is set that could help cut right to the chase???
More thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.

 

I will take a look at the scan tool and see if I can get one, wouldnt mind owning one of those.
Would it display error codes even when the engine is not on?

 

Yes a code reader, or scan tool can read & display pending or set trouble code Numbers even if the engine isn't running. Seeing as they're powered through the vehicle DLC, the vehicle battery & the vehicle Cigar Lighter fuse, through which the DLC power comes to operate our code reader or scan tool, must be good or our diagnostic equipt. won't power on to work.

On OBD-1 systems which the 1988 is, we can activate the dash CEL to blink the codes, or have one of the other connected above options flash, blink, wave, or beep the codes.
A scan tool is more costly but can display Live sensor data the computer / controllers are getting, so we don't have to find & tap in a meter to see if they're working, makes trouble shooting Way faster & more accurate.
Problem with older OBD-1 vehicles, the system wasn't as advanced, so wasn't monitoring as many things, so was mostly limited to engine control, which your interested in on this 1988 OBD-1 Vehicle. Not as many good scan tool options back then but the Actron CP 9150 kit that had the CP9145 scan tool & connection cables for OBD-1 & OBD-2 Ford, GM & Chrysler & was CAN enabled even though that OBD system was yet to come, so was one good option for me back then, as I had a OBD-1 Chrysler & Ford & my 99 Ranger was OBD-2, so the expensive Actron CP-9150 wasn't going to be obsolete any time soon for me. It took a while but has finally paid for itself, so was a good investment for me & I still use it.

For 1995 & newer OBD-2 & CAN diagnostic equipped vehicles, consider the Inexpensive ELM327 scan tool & running freeware FORScan diagnostics thats tweaked for Fords, on the viewing device of choice as discussed here. Low Cost ELM Scantool - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums (ford-trucks.com)

Since late 2013 I also have the ELM scan tool & running FORScan on my old Acer Win7 laptop, on our OBD-2 diagnostics vehicles, but still grab the Actron to just read codes, or monitor engine things. Can't beat the ELM & FORScan for in depth diagnostics & bang for the bucks on Fords, Lincoln-Mercury & ford made OBD-2 Mazda B-2 trucks. A bunch more thoughts for consideration.

Take your time & research your needs & best options & ask questions, so you're more likely to come by enough info make the best choice for your needs.