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Picked up a clean 94 Swb , 4 wheel drive with 35’s , E40D has a bad 302 in it . Already bought a 351W out of a 1995 f250 . I have read many threads on cam selections etc . This will be stock crank and rod deal with some 30 over hyper or forged pistons , installing 456 gears , fresh tranny and convertor . Needing help on head selection 165’s or 185’s was leaning toward the Afr’s ? And ideal cam ? Looking to keep compression around 9.5 for an ideal pump
gas set up . I have race cars and this is not one , healthy , reliable , torque and good sounding cruiser is what I’m looking for .
Can't say much on heads, I went with GT40s on my 351w. As for the cam, a good daily/low end cam is the 35-512-8. There's another one slightly more high strung but still SD compatible. 35-3xx-8 something, maybe 349?
Ya I had a couple in mind Comp 35-510-8 , Comp 35-349-8 not sure it would really be needed to go custom cam or not but not against it . Wanting to maximize the heads .
Really Nice Truck, I put 1.7 rollers, on mine to make lift go to 0.471, and a set of Pro Comp 2.02" intake, aluminum heads, that I horse traded with buddy taking his back to stock for his son, and I was upgrading for my son(go figure) for no more than I got in them they are great, until about 4100rpm, they start leaning out pretty quick, I would stay 1.90" intake, to keep some of the torque I lost with 2.02's, I installed the 1.7's later when I got A/F meter in and seemed like putting 1.7's would help, and it did leaned right out in upper rpm's, so watch A/F, no matter what you do. O, mine dynoed @ 183hp @ 3,900rpm, 293tq @ 2,900rpm, with just ported upper/lower intake, dyno shop closed down sold to dryclean business, Still want to get dynoed now that heads are on.
Mine goes fine with added fuel pressure(35psi), unless cool day(less than 80*), then it gets in the 13.5-13.9 A/F, righ before shifting at WOT, winter it will go lean 14.4-15.3 @ 4300rpm, when temps dip below 60*, its an absolute blast to drive.
Ya I had a couple in mind Comp 35-510-8 , Comp 35-349-8 not sure it would really be needed to go custom cam or not but not against it . Wanting to maximize the heads .
Yes on the 35-510-8, XE258HR-12 I believe. That is what I bought 3-4 years ago.
If I were to guess, the 35-349-8, XE264HR-14, will give you better idle, probably more torque at a lower rpm.
I have a 2wd and the cam I selected works 100%.
If I had a 4wd, and was doing strictly mud drags, I'd go with the same.
If I had a 4wd and was doing trails, hills and rocks, probably go with the XE264HR-14.
Maybe I have it backwards, I don't know, only built 2 engines.
If your maximizing heads, get bare heads, and take them to a machine/head/engine shop. Should cost the same as an off the shelf head, but will be perfect for your application.
BEAWARE: Ordering parts on line right now are hit and miss, quick vs slow vs never.
I'm looking at doing something similar with my 97 F350.. plus some exhaust work.. how does all this work with the trucks computer?
If you've made some changes to the heart of the vehicle(the engine), then you need to make changes to the brain of the heart(the PCM/EEC-x).
Minor changes here and there, the computer will compensate.
Major changes to cubic inches, air flow in, fuel, exhaust will require changes as the computer will max out its compensation limits. Usually idle goes first, then hard starting and consistent drivability issues will appear.
Really Nice Truck, I put 1.7 rollers, on mine to make lift go to 0.471, and a set of Pro Comp 2.02" intake, aluminum heads, that I horse traded with buddy taking his back to stock for his son, and I was upgrading for my son(go figure) for no more than I got in them they are great, until about 4100rpm, they start leaning out pretty quick, I would stay 1.90" intake, to keep some of the torque I lost with 2.02's, I installed the 1.7's later when I got A/F meter in and seemed like putting 1.7's would help, and it did leaned right out in upper rpm's, so watch A/F, no matter what you do. O, mine dynoed @ 183hp @ 3,900rpm, 293tq @ 2,900rpm, with just ported upper/lower intake, dyno shop closed down sold to dryclean business, Still want to get dynoed now that heads are on.
What cam are you running?
No dyno shop where I live either.
Using a piggy back computer, I've been able to log HP and TQ , it's a built in dyno.
Can't say much on heads, I went with GT40s on my 351w. As for the cam, a good daily/low end cam is the 35-512-8. There's another one slightly more high strung but still SD compatible. 35-3xx-8 something, maybe 349?
I am running the 35-349-8 / XE264HR cam in my 351w with e4od but it is currently stock rods and pistons and e7te heads and 1.6 roller rockers.. Good cam, can hear it at idle, but I am running MAF. Truck is currently on 31s 2wd but is about to be on 33s/37s on a dana 50 and sterling 10.50. I dont know if SD would like the cam very much, I am fixing to buy a PiMPxShift ecu before installing AFR Renegade 185s. Truck doesnt have a whole ton of torque, my 5.4 with almost 400k feels like it has more torque( also atleast twice or triple the weight), but the 351 takes it in the top end but doesnt like to rev with the super restrictive heads. EDIT: should also say both trucks currently have 3.73s.
Really Nice Truck, I put 1.7 rollers, on mine to make lift go to 0.471, and a set of Pro Comp 2.02" intake, aluminum heads, that I horse traded with buddy taking his back to stock for his son, and I was upgrading for my son(go figure) for no more than I got in them they are great, until about 4100rpm, they start leaning out pretty quick, I would stay 1.90" intake, to keep some of the torque I lost with 2.02's, I installed the 1.7's later when I got A/F meter in and seemed like putting 1.7's would help, and it did leaned right out in upper rpm's, so watch A/F, no matter what you do. O, mine dynoed @ 183hp @ 3,900rpm, 293tq @ 2,900rpm, with just ported upper/lower intake, dyno shop closed down sold to dryclean business, Still want to get dynoed now that heads are on.
Originally Posted by torq'ta 5 8
Mine goes fine with added fuel pressure(35psi), unless cool day(less than 80*), then it gets in the 13.5-13.9 A/F, righ before shifting at WOT, winter it will go lean 14.4-15.3 @ 4300rpm, when temps dip below 60*, its an absolute blast to drive.
Curious here. Have you tried upping the fuel pressure more or installing 21lb injectors??
Xe264 cam
165 heads
port the stock lower to mate to a 5.0 upper
and do 4.88s they will be highway manageable at 65 it will be spinning 2100.
Make sure to get GOOD pistons that are flush with the deck. Basic rebuilder pistons tend to be down the hole and give crap quech, leading to detonation.
