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One time Mike Mittler showed me a cylinder head off of one of their Craftsman Truck engines. A piece of something got down in the valve bowl and couldn't get out either up into the intake or down into the cylinder. It bounced around in the bowl so long that it wore a hole through into the water jacket and put them out of the race.
i've seen all sorts of crazy stuff with engines. I had a circle track customer who raced in a lower class break a crank one time right in the rear rod throw on a 350 Chevy. It stopped so quickly that it broke the flywheel flange off of the back of the crank, spun the balancer on the front of the crank,and broke the block all the way from the pan rail to the deck. I did save the head castings and the intake manifold.
On a stud mount rocker arm the height of the pivot is determined by the length of the pushrod and the height of the end of the valve stem. This is what determines how the contact point moves across the end of the valve stem as the valvetrain actuates. There isn't any one single "correct" geometry or height. Most of the time if the lift is greater the rocker arm pivot should be lower relative to the valve stem height and vice versa if the lift is less. This is if you're judging the geometry based on how the contact point moves on the valve stem tip where it generally should sweep outward, stop at about mid lift and then sweep back inward toward max lift. The movement should be mostly equal and where this occurs on the end of the valve tip makes no difference as long as the contact point doesn't move off of the end of the valve stem.
Some geometries don't try to achieve an equal amount of movement. Some companies like Jesel try to achieve the least movement when the lift is high and the most when it is low and the spring loads are lower.
Thanks Dave.
I had always heard the thickness of the guide plate should be milled off.
Thanks Dave.
I had always heard the thickness of the guide plate should be milled off.
I certainly could be milled off if it was needed to keep your rocker arm from hitting on the hex portion of the stud. I've never seen them ever be very close and I think that it is probably better to have the rocker sitting a little nearer to the bottom of the stud anyway. Without milling it does put the guide plate a little higher relative to everything else and that might make the rocker alignment not as good but usually there is enough slack that 1/8th of an inch doesn't matter. If it does, cut the guide plate in 1/2, align each one individually and then torque it down.
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