I had to destroy my rear spring hanger to remove the old springs. The only replacement option is the f250 hanger. This has two problems. First I have to drill additional holes in the frame to get it to work. Second the connection point to the shackle is about 1 inch lower than the excursion specific hanger.

@pirate4x4_camo I was wondering what are your thoughts this? Will it have a significant affect on the driveline angle with the procomp springs?

 

Your other issue that you don't mention is that if you go that route, you have to replace that same hanger on the other side.

 

@Dweber85rc agreed I already have both removed

 

It will then affect pinion angle, to what degree exactly I can't say. It will roll the pinion up farther. You would end up with an extra 1/2" lift from the dropped bracket because you are only modifying half of the side of the spring.

 

Perhaps you've already looked at this, but it looks like the bottom holes are in about the same position relative to the spring through bolt. Why not just drill two new holes in the hanger for the top two bolts then the pinion angle/ lift amount wouldn't change.
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@Antonm Thanks, that's a great idea, Unfortunately that puts the new holes in the new hanger right on the edge of it which is worse than drilling more holes in the frame

 

These are times when’s it really handy to have a welder in the corner of the shop.
That way you could add a little metal where needed.
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I do have a welder, just haven't wired it in yet we moved 2 years ago, I'm getting to it, lol. due to the frame/hanger being a pretty critical part subjected to repeated loading and high stresses i didn't want to weld at that location and make it more susceptible to cracking.

This was some interesting info I found on drilling the frame. If I drilled it the new holes would be about .75 inches edge distance from the old ones.
This is from the FMC "Body Builders Guide" book.

"FRAME
1. Holes that would weaken the frame sidemember
should not be drilled in the frame. Holes are not to
be drilled in the sidemember’s top or bottom flange.
2. Holes to mount brackets, out-riggers, and supports,
may be drilled in the vertical frame side rail web
with the following restrictions:
• Material between edge of hole and inside of
upper or lower flange must not be less than
1.50 inch for low carbon steel (36,000 PSI yield).
• The minimum edge distance between any two
holes up to 0.625 inch diameter must be 1.00
inch. For larger than 0.625 inch diameter holes,
the minimum edge distance must be 1.5 times
the diameter of the largest hole.
• 0.75 inch is maximum hole diameter.
• Avoid close vertical succession of fasteners.
• All attaching fasteners, including flat washers,
must be of high strength steel (Grade 8)."

http://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/...bb_pdf/303.pdf
http://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/...7/maintoc.html

 

It will change the pinion angle but no big deal as shims come in 1* increments. Just measure and buy the correct size.

If the new leaf pivot bolt is 2” lower than the stock excursion bolt hole it will give 1” of “lift”

what is wrong with the old hanger ?
i am not seeing the damage.

 

@pirate4x4_camo The leaf pivot bolt is about 1 inch lower, so about .5 inches of lift over the standard procomp lift. I already have the 2 degree shims so Ill have to see how it looks when it gets put together, was hoping I wouldn't need to get new ones. I had to remove the hangers from both sides. The one in the picture is undamaged, however the other one was damaged from grinding.

 

For the shims, are they installed with the fat side towards the back of the truck for both the front and rear axles?

 

Front axles yes, rear depends on the type of rear driveshaft you have (double cardan vs. two joint).
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i would repair the old hanger.

if fabrication isn’t your thing take it to a shop, shouldn’t be that big of a deal if its just grinder damage.

 

Ended up returning the 250 hangers and sourced a excursion hanger from a junkyard

 

Making progress, driveshaft is not double cardigan. A couple of thing first is the pin in the spring seems pretty far forward. I have to move the axle 1.5 inches to the front to line it up second is the driveshaft angle. It seems the fat side of the shim has to face the rear of the truck to keep the driveshaft parallel with the pinion which was the stock configuration