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Typically the rear shims get installed such that they rotate the pinion angle down (closer to the ground) on a two joint rear shaft. Reason for this it to keep driveshafts vibrations to a minimum. See pic below.
@Antonm Interesting, That doesn't make sense the factory configuration had the pinon parallel with the driveshaft with the fat side of the factory blocks to the rear of the truck. In the diagram above if the pinion is rolled up it would reduce the angle at the diff to 0 and reduce the angle at the transfer case. Also is that diagram for the front axle?
When you move the rear end down with lift springs, the angle of the rear output changes (you moved the axle farther down, but the transfer case output didn't move, the two are connected via a straight line driveshaft ,so the angle has to change).
Vibrations tend to be at a minimum when the angles of the two driveshaft u-joints are equal. So since the angle at the transfer case got steeper, the one at the rear end needs to get steeper as well to match. To accomplish that you roll the pinion down toward the ground.
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Its also worth noting that 1-2 degrees on a driveline is hard to discern just by looking at it at least for a majority of the shade tree mechanics on the board here.
Here is we’re I’m at measured from hub to wheel well is 29 inches much higher than I was hoping. This may be because the front end is on jack stands about 3 ft behind where the front axle would be so the engine weight is cantilevered out in front reducing the weight on the rear axle. Really hope it drops about an inch. Also in the process of rebuilding a d60 junkyard axle. Going to torque all the suspension components once the front axle is back in.
You might want to double check that the shackle bolts are in the correct position on the rear springs. If put in the wrong way they will catch on the frame and not allow the spring to compress the way it should.
Just about done. Still need to get an alignment and new tires put on. Ended up going with Yokohama geolander 285/75r16 on a set of like new stock rims Fully rebuilt and regeared Dana 60 All for corners at 27 inches hub center to fender
What are the thoughts on the sway bar links. I noticed the front swaybar is angled up now using the stock sway bar links. Are extended links recommended or needed?
@Antonm What did you do with the sway bar links when you did the lift?
I put a set of adjustable extended sway bar end links on. Mostly to get the end links away from the leaf spring a bit. I adjusted the links so the sway bar was parallel to the ground like it was before the lift.
I flipped my stock mount around and mounted it under the frame, this allowed the stock sway bar links I bought not too long before to work. I also added a flat plate on the outside to add support to the frame.
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