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2006 F-150 Super Cab 4x4 200K miles. VIN 1FTPX14V66NB28745 My fuel gauge recently stopped working so I purchased a new Motorcraft fuel pump assembly MTCPFS1378 from Rock Auto. Working at a friend's house with a lift we remove the tank. During process of disconnecting the fuel lines we buggered up several ends (appears they require intensive cleaning before they will unlock and disconnect). Since I plan to keep the truck I bought new line sets 6L3Z 9J279 J from Ford dealer. Dealer told me I would also need wire assembly 8U2Z 14S411 ZB due to a change in connector configuration of something on the new line set. I think this may be some sort of pressure sensor but not sure. That wiring kit did not come with any instructions regarding which wire to splice to which wire, so we just kept the connector oriented and the wires in line (not crossing each other). The wiring kit had 3 green wires and I saw no other indication of identification of each green wire. In hindsite I should have stopped and found which wire when to which wire, but I did not. Truck started and runs great, but on the way home check engine light came on; engine still running good. Code P0451. I deleted code and it stayed off a couple of days. My inspection is due so couple of days ago on the way to inspection station the check engine light came back on. I had my code reader in truck so checked and same P0451 again. I cancelled it, but the inspection station man advised to wait because he thinks the code history will cause it to fail emissions testing. A day or so later the cel came back on. I had pending and set P0451 codes. The old connector we cut out had 3 wires; gry/red, brn/wht, red/pink. I found a schematic online and it tells me the gry/red is SIG RTN, brn/wht is Ref Volt, red/pink is FTPT Sens Sig. I doubt the method we used to splice in the wiring kit required would have resulted in those 3 wires marrying up correctly so I suspect this is the reason for the P0451 code. In case I did not mention before I never had that code until after removing replacing fuel tank and pump. I do not want to drop the tank again, but there is no way I can access the splice and inspect/correct without dropping tank or removing bed (I don't think). Any insight on mixing the wire splice and the code is appreciated. That would at least stop me from chasing something else. I have an Actron cp9125 pocket scanner and not a diagnostic scan tool. IF I could reach in and unplug the "new" wire kit connector, is this pigtail connected to a main wire loom I could pull over to fix? I know this is wordy but wanted to give all of the information I have. Thanks for any guidance.
2006 F-150 Super Cab 4x4 200K miles. VIN 1FTPX14V66NB28745 My fuel gauge recently stopped working so I purchased a new Motorcraft fuel pump assembly MTCPFS1378 from Rock Auto. Working at a friend's house with a lift we remove the tank. During process of disconnecting the fuel lines we buggered up several ends (appears they require intensive cleaning before they will unlock and disconnect). Since I plan to keep the truck I bought new line sets 6L3Z 9J279 J from Ford dealer. Dealer told me I would also need wire assembly 8U2Z 14S411 ZB due to a change in connector configuration of something on the new line set. I think this may be some sort of pressure sensor but not sure. That wiring kit did not come with any instructions regarding which wire to splice to which wire, so we just kept the connector oriented and the wires in line (not crossing each other). The wiring kit had 3 green wires and I saw no other indication of identification of each green wire. In hindsite I should have stopped and found which wire when to which wire, but I did not. Truck started and runs great, but on the way home check engine light came on; engine still running good. Code P0451. I deleted code and it stayed off a couple of days. My inspection is due so couple of days ago on the way to inspection station the check engine light came back on. I had my code reader in truck so checked and same P0451 again. I cancelled it, but the inspection station man advised to wait because he thinks the code history will cause it to fail emissions testing. A day or so later the cel came back on. I had pending and set P0451 codes. The old connector we cut out had 3 wires; gry/red, brn/wht, red/pink. I found a schematic online and it tells me the gry/red is SIG RTN, brn/wht is Ref Volt, red/pink is FTPT Sens Sig. I doubt the method we used to splice in the wiring kit required would have resulted in those 3 wires marrying up correctly so I suspect this is the reason for the P0451 code. In case I did not mention before I never had that code until after removing replacing fuel tank and pump. I do not want to drop the tank again, but there is no way I can access the splice and inspect/correct without dropping tank or removing bed (I don't think). Any insight on mixing the wire splice and the code is appreciated. That would at least stop me from chasing something else. I have an Actron cp9125 pocket scanner and not a diagnostic scan tool. IF I could reach in and unplug the "new" wire kit connector, is this pigtail connected to a main wire loom I could pull over to fix? I know this is wordy but wanted to give all of the information I have. Thanks for any guidance.
I would pull the bed bolts , get another guy or 2 , pick up thx bed and move it back until the tank fuel pump opening is exposed , put some 4x4s across frame to hold up bed , and work on the pump where you can start it back up without dropping the tank
I would pull the bed bolts , get another guy or 2 , pick up thx bed and move it back until the tank fuel pump opening is exposed , put some 4x4s across frame to hold up bed , and work on the pump where you can start it back up without dropping the tank
6 bed bolts , 3 tiny filler neck screws , one hose clamp , one wire loom disconnect, and 2 tail light bulbs , and lift off the bed , way easier than dropping the tank ,
might need container to drain some gas into if too full
, all you might need is a t50 torx bit , no need to drop tank and you can make sure every is running properly before you put bed back on https://youtu.be/7lPzi9M8atk
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