My '84
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My '84
Alright guys. Here's some pics of my bronco. Going to do a resto-mod. So far all I've done is replace the ball joints and steering linkage. Still trying to come up with a good plan. Going to be a daily driver for sure. Might go on some light duty excursions. Definitely open to ideas and suggestions. Lemme know what you think.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,568
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From: Swansea SC
Nice Truck , fond of them year broncs, The younger generation are telling me the Bull style is in . Advise, take your time and do it RIGHT the first time , i know stuff is costly but you will not regret it.TR
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From: Boise, Idaho
Very nice.
What year and transmission?
What size tires are those and do you know the gearing ratio?
I'd have your driveshafts serviced.
Then start getting into the front end. Fresh brakes. While those are off, replace/repack the wheel bearings and examine if anything else needs dealt with.
You probably got in that far if you replaced the ball joints, but it wasn't mentioned.
That's definitely my favorite year Bronco (mine's an 85). A good, classic look!
And yes, I have learned the hard way that fast and cheap ends up taking longer and costing more. Crazy how that is.
What year and transmission?
What size tires are those and do you know the gearing ratio?
I'd have your driveshafts serviced.
Then start getting into the front end. Fresh brakes. While those are off, replace/repack the wheel bearings and examine if anything else needs dealt with.
You probably got in that far if you replaced the ball joints, but it wasn't mentioned.
That's definitely my favorite year Bronco (mine's an 85). A good, classic look!
And yes, I have learned the hard way that fast and cheap ends up taking longer and costing more. Crazy how that is.
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Hey there. So the bronco is 84. Has a 351w,4 speed tranny. Dana 44 with 3.50 in the front. Not sure about the rear gears. Probably 3.55 if I had to guess though. So far I've replaced the steering linkage, ball joints, rotors, pads and front brake lines. New bearings too. Shocks are going on next week. All new bushings up front also. Still need to rebuild or replace the steering gear box. Truck is sitting on a 4" lift and 33s. Not sure if I'm going to keep that set up though. The wifey is short and has a bad hip. Tough for her to climb up there lol.
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From: Boise, Idaho
It has a 4 speed? I'm assuming a manual?
351s only came with autos, so if so, someone either special ordered that or put it in themselves. Really nice combo.
I've always thought a 4" lift with 33s was excessive. I have 32" tires with no lift at all and it's just about perfect.
Fortunately, if you need, lifts aren't that difficult to remove.
351s only came with autos, so if so, someone either special ordered that or put it in themselves. Really nice combo.
I've always thought a 4" lift with 33s was excessive. I have 32" tires with no lift at all and it's just about perfect.
Fortunately, if you need, lifts aren't that difficult to remove.
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Yah I feel the 33s are a tad too much for me also. And as a matter of fact, i AM removing the lift. The previous owner didn't take the steering geometry into consideration when installing it. I just got a new pitman arm last night. Now I'm trying to find a couple front axel pivot brackets and then I can drop er' back down to where she belongs lol. My wife and the edge of my seats will appreciate that!
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Boise, Idaho
Sound like a good plan!
I've heard you can get away with 33s and no lift on an 80-86, but it's tight.
But as said, I'm a big fan of the 32s.
Keep us posted on how it goes.
I've heard you can get away with 33s and no lift on an 80-86, but it's tight.
But as said, I'm a big fan of the 32s.
Keep us posted on how it goes.
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Rust in the typical places but overall in good shape for being 38 years old.
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From: Boise, Idaho
My guess is that it's saying it's to go with a 3.50 (your rear). Dana 44 gears have a 3.08, 3.54, and 4.11 in stock Broncos.
You generally want the front to be slightly numerically higher (3.00 vs 3.08, 3.50 vs 3.54, 4.10 vs 4.11, etc). as it helps with keeping the vehicle straight in slippery conditions.
I just went out and looked at my original front diff tag ( have it on the wall, since it now has 4.11s in it). It says "3.5". There's some rust, but I'm pretty sure there isn't a 0 or 4 at the end.
You generally want the front to be slightly numerically higher (3.00 vs 3.08, 3.50 vs 3.54, 4.10 vs 4.11, etc). as it helps with keeping the vehicle straight in slippery conditions.
I just went out and looked at my original front diff tag ( have it on the wall, since it now has 4.11s in it). It says "3.5". There's some rust, but I'm pretty sure there isn't a 0 or 4 at the end.
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