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Every 5/7 years as standard maintenance I will pull all of the AIR components TB egr etc. and clean all of the BLOCKED passages of carbon. Recently my idle seemed to be off a bit so I figured it was time for a good cleaning. Sure thing, there was blockage. Used maybe 1 to 2 cans of carb cleaner and a lot of q tips. Reassembled everything and now it runs like a new truck.
point being if your truck is not starting/running right you may want to consider this. Takes me maybe 3 hours to complete.
Second pic shows Two ports at the bottom. These are ALWAYS blocked so pay attention to those.
I know this is an old post, but I'm planning on doing this in the coming weeks. 5 years ago my truck started having a rough idle that I would notice while stopped at lights, or just sitting in the driveway. I went down a rabbit hole, testing and cleaning injectors and COPs, replacing plugs, replacing every filter and fluid in the truck. I tried seafoam, fuel additives.. PCV valve, hunted for vacuum leaks etc. I eventually just gave up and have been living with the rough idle ever since. It bugs me to no end tho.
So, I'm going to give this a shot. Truck runs great otherwise. I will not be holding my breath tho!
For some reason, those 4.6s benefit from clean EGR passages
Almost every time a code P0401 comes up on a 4.6 Crown Vic or truck and I clean the port and fix the check engine lamp on concern, the client calls back and says it runs better
You are halfway there
Pull the throttle plate adapter and clean the EGR ports with a screwdriver is my suggestion
I'd also
Run codes, tune it up, use all Motorcraft tune up parts
I will do that. It's probably due for plugs. I put Motorcraft plugs in when I first started troubleshooting this issue, but that was almost 6 years ago now. Time goes by fast. I have been starting to wonder if my EGR valve or the control solenoid might be leaking some exhaust gas at idle causing the engine vibes I'm feeling. If the EGR valve wasn't fully closed maybe that's causing the rough idle..? Just fed up with throwing parts at this particular issue that's all.
I have never had a code, which has also been frustrating.
Some run a whole lot better after cleaning the injectors and throttle plate
Clean the injectors through the rail if you can afford a OTC 7448A injector cleaner (the Ford injector cleaner is cheap)
Mine was not 234 bucks like they are now, mine was 125 years ago
There are several styles / brands online, find a used or cheap one, they all do the same thing
At the dealer we all made our own back in the 90's from an empty freon tank
Fireal, I have seen numerous injector failures on the trucks of your era
Replace them as a last resort, have them professionally cleaned at the dealer if you do not want to pop for the cleaner apparatus youerself
Some run a whole lot better after cleaning the injectors and throttle plate
Clean the injectors through the rail if you can afford a OTC 7448A injector cleaner (the Ford injector cleaner is cheap)
Mine was not 234 bucks like they are now, mine was 125 years ago
There are several styles / brands online, find a used or cheap one, they all do the same thing
At the dealer we all made our own back in the 90's from an empty freon tank
Fireal, I have seen numerous injector failures on the trucks of your era
Replace them as a last resort, have them professionally cleaned at the dealer if you do not want to pop for the cleaner apparatus youerself
I could look into this again. When the issue first occurred I rigged up a rubber boot and 12v power and flushed the injectors with cleaner.. but that was only using the pressure from the can of carb cleaner. 6 months later I removed the injectors, flushed them again, and put them into an ultrasonic. It didn't do anything tbh. I also replaced the o-rings when I put them back in. I'm sure my DIY rig wasn't really enough to clean them properly tho. Perhaps I should get them professionally done.
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