E4OD slips when warm
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2019
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E4OD slips when warm
When the truck is warmed up to operating temp but still cold, everything is fine. After about 5-10 miles first gear starts to slip after coming to a complete stop. Every other gear works great, with good accelation under load. My problem seems to only happen in first. Sometimes reverse will also make the truck stall when warm. I have noticed that the solenoid pack connection gets oily and dirty. Seems to be a slight leak on the trans cooler lines that gets a little oil into the connection. Could that one connection be the source of the problems or am I looking at internal part failures? I’ve read on other threads that it could be a sensor or MLPS or a weak tranny pump. Wanted to get the forums thoughts on this before I start throwing $$ at it.
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,714
Likes: 2,639
From: SE Florida
It can't be the MLPS. Nothing it can do will make the trans slip.
Low fluid can cause this. So can low line pressure.
If you want to test line pressure, get a 0-350 PSI gauge with a 1/8" NPT thread. Install it in the test port on the driver's side of the trans, towards the front of the trans, just above the pan. It has a black hex head plug from the factory.
Check line pressure in each position, PRND21. Check it also at stall* in RD21.
* Stall is when you hold the brake pedal as hard as you can with your left foot and push the accelerator pedal to the floor with your right foot. NOTE: *DO NOT* HOLD STALL FOR MORE THAN 5 (FIVE) SECONDS AT A TIME!!!!!! iDLE OR FAST IDLE IN PARK OR NEUTRAL FOR AT LEAST 30 SECONDS BETWEEN EACH STALL TEST. Failure to heed this warning will destroy the torque converter.
Low fluid can cause this. So can low line pressure.
If you want to test line pressure, get a 0-350 PSI gauge with a 1/8" NPT thread. Install it in the test port on the driver's side of the trans, towards the front of the trans, just above the pan. It has a black hex head plug from the factory.
Check line pressure in each position, PRND21. Check it also at stall* in RD21.
* Stall is when you hold the brake pedal as hard as you can with your left foot and push the accelerator pedal to the floor with your right foot. NOTE: *DO NOT* HOLD STALL FOR MORE THAN 5 (FIVE) SECONDS AT A TIME!!!!!! iDLE OR FAST IDLE IN PARK OR NEUTRAL FOR AT LEAST 30 SECONDS BETWEEN EACH STALL TEST. Failure to heed this warning will destroy the torque converter.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 382
Likes: 79
New symptom?
Now, on a cold start (very cold, about 15degrees this morning) the tranny will pump about a pint of fluid right on the street over a 5 minute period, when it warms slighty, the leaking stops. Comes right from the bottom of inspection cover area. Any idea what that could be?
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,714
Likes: 2,639
From: SE Florida
That would be the torque converter hub seal. There is an aftermarket seal made from Viton that is MUCH better than the stock seal.
To change the seal all you need to do is take the trans out, remove the torque converter and the pump. Replace the seal, the bushing behind that seal, and the pump gasket. Then put it all back together again.
To change the seal all you need to do is take the trans out, remove the torque converter and the pump. Replace the seal, the bushing behind that seal, and the pump gasket. Then put it all back together again.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2019
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Likes: 79
Thanks for the reply. Beside helping in installation of trans, does the torque converter actually need be removed? Reason I ask is because last time I dropped the converter and bent the area that fits into the trans pump. Could that bent lip be causing the leak and wreaking all sorts of havoc?
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Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,714
Likes: 2,639
From: SE Florida
Yes, the bent lip could be causing the problem,
As for needing to remove the torque converter to access the pump, how would you propose to get the pump out with the converter in place?
As for needing to remove the torque converter to access the pump, how would you propose to get the pump out with the converter in place?
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Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 382
Likes: 79
I would just leave the TC bolted up to the flex plate and slide the transmission out. Sounds like I’ve been doing it wrong. No excuses here but all this has been done on a creeper, alone, so it’s been a real challenge. Any way I can fix the TC lip to be round again? Where are the important contact points when it slides into the pump?
side note: getting ready to pull the trans in a week or two anyway to replace the pump. I’ll be sure to get that seal you mentioned
side note: getting ready to pull the trans in a week or two anyway to replace the pump. I’ll be sure to get that seal you mentioned
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,714
Likes: 2,639
From: SE Florida
How do you install the trans? How do you rotate the converter to get it to seat into the pump? Do you just slide the trans on the converter and hope it seats into the pump without destroying it?
Do NOT pull the trans like this. It is just inviting disaster. Remove the nuts that hold the converter to the flex plate, slide the converter back to get the studs clear of the flex plate, and remove the converter still installed in the trans.
I have never attempted to fix a converter damaged like you describe. I have no clue how to do that.
Do NOT pull the trans like this. It is just inviting disaster. Remove the nuts that hold the converter to the flex plate, slide the converter back to get the studs clear of the flex plate, and remove the converter still installed in the trans.
I have never attempted to fix a converter damaged like you describe. I have no clue how to do that.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2019
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I just make sure it’s lined up correctly before installing. If it doesn’t want to seat, I’ll rotate the flex plate a bit to get it just right. I’ll try the methods you describe and see how it works out. Thanks again for the advice
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,714
Likes: 2,639
From: SE Florida
How do you line up the flats on the end of the torque converter with the pump gears inside the transmission?
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2019
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I just clock the converter flats to the angle of the pump gears. It won’t mate unless they mesh together perfectly. It’s essentially the same thing as putting the converter into the pump first, how you rotate till it fits in.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 382
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To conclude the thread. I replaced the pump and now it accelerates normal as it should. It doesn’t leak either. Also, to Marks point, I installed the trans like he described and it was actually easier. Thanks all
