I'm in the Arizona desert, so I only have my tool bag that I always travel with. Brace yourself, this will be lengthy. The engine will not start unless at operating temperature. I can get it started when I disable the glow plugs and give it a ever so tiny injection of ether. ( I know, don't even go there.) Once the engine is warmed up. It will start and run perfectly normal the rest of the day. I think because the 5v ref is low, it's not commanding enough high pressure oil when starting?

I believe I have a voltage problem in the cab? I think it's a ground or B+ issue?

The tack needle does not move when starting the engine and the OBD port is dead when starting the engine, so the PIDs can't be scanned while starting. No codes, all lights and other systems are functioning normal. New Motorcraft CPS, IPR, ICP and 2 Decca 850 cca batteries. Some desperation, (I have found that sometimes doing things not logical will work.) The engine was rebuilt 37,000 miles ago, including engine harness and all multi-pin plugs and connectors. All under hood ground points were shored up. PCM was tested and is good per Jon. The Hydra is removed. Disconnecting the ICP, does not help. All fuses, relays and the PCM diode has been tested and is good. Cam gear and crank gear are welded. (Modified HPOPs have been known to walk the cam gear.) I tested the CPS circuitry from CPS plug to the PCM plug and it's fine. I removed the CPS and waved a wrench back and forth in front of it, the misses stated the tach needle moves. Obviously there are no scratches on the CPS face.

I had it at the local Ford dealer for three days. They can not fix it! I was told it's an old truck. REALLY! I was charged $100. I thought about taking it to the dealer in Lake Havasu. Because of it's snow bird season, they do not even give an appointment. They will give you a date to drop it off and they will get to it when they git to it. Just no. Now I might need to reconsider that?

Today, I'm going to take the day off to research this and drink a few IPAs.

Tomorrow, I'm going to find all cab grounds and shore them up. Then I'm going to connect one jumper cable from the frame to a stout point on the cab.Try it, hmm? If no go, I'm going to check the B+ connection to the fuse box under the dash. I should do that anyway. My objective is to have solid 12 volt power in the cab a get the OBD port working while starting. I have noticed the cigarette lighter doesn't work if the OBD port is dead, same circuit. Nice!

What say you? Any thoughts or suggestions? I really hate using ether, but I have no recourse. I double posted this just to get more exposure.

 

Moderators, can you delete this thread? I double posted and this thread appears dead.