Greetings,
Last year I bought a 1992 Ford F-250 7.3 idi with a banks after market turbo with 240k. I’ve diligently been replacing hoses and filters to freshen things up. Recently I broke down after a fuel line on the back injector passenger side blew off. I believe this is the line that goes behind the motor to the tank? Anyhow, I replaced the entire fuel lines and caps but then noticed pressure building in the gas tanks that also have white smoke coming from them. It also sounds like the fuel is bubbling when the caps off. It’s definitely pressurized. Based on this and a few forums I read I replaced the injectors today. You can imagine my excitement believing I had fixed the air intrusion issue (blown injectors) only to find a massive fuel leak occurring on the passenger side motor area. Probably the lift. Also, fuel now is collecting in the valley in the middle of the engine near the IP and hard lines. I’m beyond frustrated and lost. Any thoughts?

 

Jist replace the whole durn fuel system. If not you're just going to be patching air leaks all the time for years until you've replaced and patched it all together. Then it's not as well done as a quality job done at one time. If your interested in running en entire new fuel system I can advise you on it.

Cheer,
Wheeler

 

Tell me more!

 

If you have pressure in the fuel tanks, maybe you have a vent problem.
The tanks have to vent, when adding fuel, and as the fuel is being used.

If you think the Lift Pump is bad or leaking, crawl under the engine and take
a look. There is a short hose that is sort of a curly Q from the steel supply line
to the Pump. It could be old and leaking where it is clamped down. Had
that problem a few years ago. Replaced hose and all good.

Couple weeks ago I had an air intrusion problem that was off and on again.
It was the Lift Pump, it was wet on the bottom, replaced it and all is good.
You really should not have a pressure issue with the return system.

Charlie

 

So I washed and dried the entire engine today and believe I’ve pin pointed the problem to the IP. It makes sense due to it leaking and filling up the valley in the middle of the engine and then leaking out the back side. I haven’t started it since I have figured it out, but before I go buying a new IP, where on the IP would leak after replacing injectors? I also pulled the fuel selector valve believing it could be plugged (what a mess that was) and have three 5 gallon buckets of fuel sitting out by my truck , ugh.

Anyhow, again the IP doesn’t seem to have an obvious leak points or anything loose that I can tell. I’m guessing once I get the new selector valve installed I’ll start it up and see if I can see where it’s leaking on or near the IP housing.

 

So the best kit you can buy, with bang for the buck is the E-Fuel kit from Classic Diesel Designs. They pulled the kit off the website for now, but give them a call and you can probably get it ordered. It costs $500 off the top of my head. It includes:

• 30 micron prefilter
• Holley Black pump
• Wiring Harness and relay for pump
• Dual filter head with filters
• Fuel regulator and PSI gauge
• Fuel return T
• Block off plate with gasket
• 3/8 rubber hose
• Barbed fittings for all items.

You also need:

• #4 hose clamps (optional according to them)
• 3/8 to 5/16 hose barbed adapters
• Bolts & nuts

This is a complete kit and filtration system with Holley Black fuel pump and filters. You bypass the stock filter and can remove it and go straight to the IP. Clamp 5/16 to selector then adapter barbs, then the kit in order.

If you wanted to piece it together and run a electric pump:

20-25' 5/16 hosePump of choice
#4 hose clamps
Block off plateZip ties.
Wire and relayBarb fitting for filter housing NPT
​​​​​​Remove fuel lines from fuel selector to filter housing. Remove mechanical fuel pump and install block off plate. Install the barb fitting for the filter housing and connect the new hose line from it to the selector. Zip tie the fuel line to where you want it so it doesn't sag. Cut fuel line where fuel pump is desired. Bolt fuel pump in and connect hose. Ground the pump, then run a wire to the engine bay to a relay. Connect another wire to the battery with an inline fuse around 10-20 amps depending on pump. Most pull under 10. Then ground a wire from relay and connect the activation power to a switch in cab, IP solenoid, or Glow plug relay with the red/green wire.

I need to make a thread of my fuel system as a guide...