Intermittent No Start
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More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 713
Likes: 1
From: Augusta.GA
Intermittent No Start
I’ve had to have my truck towed 3 times now! This 2000 F150 otherwise drives very well except when it won’t start after driving.
Symptoms include flashing security light. Happens with both keys. I can here some type of clicking near throttle. Battery is good. I have seen dimming on my aftermarket radio display while driving. I have seen the amp meter and displays flash crazy but cleared up.
My troubleshooting basically included a” wiggle test” of the harness, wiggling keys in ignition switch
The last tow dropped at my Ford trained mechanic.
Symptoms include flashing security light. Happens with both keys. I can here some type of clicking near throttle. Battery is good. I have seen dimming on my aftermarket radio display while driving. I have seen the amp meter and displays flash crazy but cleared up.
My troubleshooting basically included a” wiggle test” of the harness, wiggling keys in ignition switch
The last tow dropped at my Ford trained mechanic.
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More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 713
Likes: 1
From: Augusta.GA
Intermittent Start
Oh, should added that detail.
First time he rerouted some winch wires, made it all neater. He may or may not have replaced a fuel pump, can't find a receipt and it's been awhile (months).
2nd time Reprogrammed keys.
3rd time: He said as soon as it hit the ground and he tried to start it fired right up. He tried here and there every day for a week and had no problems. Nothing found. Not throwing codes.
Why I'm posting. Don't trust my truck! I use it to visit my elderly mom 30 miles upcountry from my house and towing is getting old to say the least. Just retired and bought a Bronco Sport so I'm really not keen on buying a new truck right now, especially one I'd be reluctant to actually use as a truck.
First time he rerouted some winch wires, made it all neater. He may or may not have replaced a fuel pump, can't find a receipt and it's been awhile (months).
2nd time Reprogrammed keys.
3rd time: He said as soon as it hit the ground and he tried to start it fired right up. He tried here and there every day for a week and had no problems. Nothing found. Not throwing codes.
Why I'm posting. Don't trust my truck! I use it to visit my elderly mom 30 miles upcountry from my house and towing is getting old to say the least. Just retired and bought a Bronco Sport so I'm really not keen on buying a new truck right now, especially one I'd be reluctant to actually use as a truck.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,760
Likes: 1,079
From: St Louis
There's nothing wrong with where you've posted. Perhaps a bit sparse on details and observations, though.
What is the state of the digital odometer and the check engine light when you have the failure to start? The fast-flashing THEFT lights indicates no PATS prove-out which will result in a "crank no fire" symptom. however, the stuff "upstream" from PATS has to work first.
A common failure is the PCM Power Relay. When it gets flaky, weird things can happen, several of which you described.
You mean you don't want to use the new Broc' for that??
What is the state of the digital odometer and the check engine light when you have the failure to start? The fast-flashing THEFT lights indicates no PATS prove-out which will result in a "crank no fire" symptom. however, the stuff "upstream" from PATS has to work first.
A common failure is the PCM Power Relay. When it gets flaky, weird things can happen, several of which you described.
Just retired and bought a Bronco Sport so I'm really not keen on buying a new truck right now, especially one I'd be reluctant to actually use as a truck.
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More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 713
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From: Augusta.GA
Flashing Theft No crank
Gotta use the right tool for the job! Bronco can’t haul my tree trimmings.
Driving on interstate I noticed the display on my Kenwood aftermarket dimming.
Can’t remember if the last incident resulted in flashing battery charge light, but it has before.
Upon arrival to my destination, I turned the vehicle off. Tried to crank it but it wouldn’t crank. I got flashing theft light.
I had both keys on key fob. I attempted to wiggle key in switch, move steering wheel position, tried both keys, attempted to reset fuel cut-off switch.
I searched for troubleshooting solutions, counted flashes which gave me a code 11, I think.
Driving on interstate I noticed the display on my Kenwood aftermarket dimming.
Can’t remember if the last incident resulted in flashing battery charge light, but it has before.
Upon arrival to my destination, I turned the vehicle off. Tried to crank it but it wouldn’t crank. I got flashing theft light.
I had both keys on key fob. I attempted to wiggle key in switch, move steering wheel position, tried both keys, attempted to reset fuel cut-off switch.
I searched for troubleshooting solutions, counted flashes which gave me a code 11, I think.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,760
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From: St Louis
What is the state of the digital odometer and the check engine light when you have the failure to start? The fast-flashing THEFT lights indicates no PATS prove-out which will result in a "crank no fire" symptom. However, the stuff "upstream" from PATS has to work first.
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More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 713
Likes: 1
From: Augusta.GA
Digital Odometer
Sorry.
Digital Odometer doesn’t change but lights up intermittently since I acquired the vehicle several years ago.
This malfunction precedes by many years the problem I now have with intermittent failure to start.
I don’t know how to answer upstream failure question. I do hear clicking under cover near center firewall.
I swapped relays with no change in outcome.
Digital Odometer doesn’t change but lights up intermittently since I acquired the vehicle several years ago.
This malfunction precedes by many years the problem I now have with intermittent failure to start.
I don’t know how to answer upstream failure question. I do hear clicking under cover near center firewall.
I swapped relays with no change in outcome.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,760
Likes: 1,079
From: St Louis
You may wish to consider performing the odometer blackout fix so you have a functional indicator of what the cluster is doing. Without that, it's hard to figure out what is or isn't happening.
Does the check engine light come on during bulb proveout? If so, does it go out during cranking or stay on?
Do you hear the fuel pump priming cycle when the ignition switch is turned from OFF to RUN?
BTW, you might want to pull the driver's side kick panel and inspect the two grounding points there. One of them is critical for the operation of both PATS and the cluster.
Does the check engine light come on during bulb proveout? If so, does it go out during cranking or stay on?
Do you hear the fuel pump priming cycle when the ignition switch is turned from OFF to RUN?
BTW, you might want to pull the driver's side kick panel and inspect the two grounding points there. One of them is critical for the operation of both PATS and the cluster.
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More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 713
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From: Augusta.GA
Odometer blackout / bulb proveout
Ok so yousetubes has a video about how to resolver the odometers circuit. Not sure how this helps but I could do that.
If I dig into the cluster at least I can check connections. Previously I had a stereo stolen and the thief yanked it out messing up the auxiliary power and power to brake controller.
My new reinstall fixed that but I really couldn’t get to the auxiliary power cluster. Didn’t know how to take that apart, if I recall. This might be a issue.
The ground I used was in drivers firewall black with green or purple stripe, can’t remember, so I can turn camera on while driving. I could take it to a stereo shop and pay them to check the install but I’ve been having start issues sometime after and may not be related.
Way before these issues I had a tire fail that destroyed my abs cluster on the drivers front wheel. Mechanic did away with it saying to get it back right was going to cost big bucks. So ABS light stays lit.
Bulb proveout seems a bit more complicated. Don’t really understand that though I’ve seen a forum post on it.
If I dig into the cluster at least I can check connections. Previously I had a stereo stolen and the thief yanked it out messing up the auxiliary power and power to brake controller.
My new reinstall fixed that but I really couldn’t get to the auxiliary power cluster. Didn’t know how to take that apart, if I recall. This might be a issue.
The ground I used was in drivers firewall black with green or purple stripe, can’t remember, so I can turn camera on while driving. I could take it to a stereo shop and pay them to check the install but I’ve been having start issues sometime after and may not be related.
Way before these issues I had a tire fail that destroyed my abs cluster on the drivers front wheel. Mechanic did away with it saying to get it back right was going to cost big bucks. So ABS light stays lit.
Bulb proveout seems a bit more complicated. Don’t really understand that though I’ve seen a forum post on it.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 227
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From: Near Bragg Classified
Bulb proveout seems a bit more complicated. Don’t really understand that though I’ve seen a forum post on it.
Not sure but maybe that means does the bulb come on then go off when you turn the key to run?
Not sure but maybe that means does the bulb come on then go off when you turn the key to run?
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More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 713
Likes: 1
From: Augusta.GA
Intermittent crank no start
Still have issue. Turn key on dash lights come on then extinguish. Turn to start crank but doesn’t start with rapid flashing of anti theft. Let anti theft flash for 40 seconds stops flashing. This is followed by 1 flash… delay… 1 flash.
The only thing I do that seems to work after anti theft activates is open hood and swap diode positions. So far cranks after that but it may have been I held my left arm in the air after walking around the truck twice.
On occasion, it won’t crank at all (no power, no dash lights , nothing). When that has happened, I wiggled fuse link positive battery cabl (has black plastic protective cover over the wire) and I get crank and start.
3rd mechanic didn’t see a problem.
The only thing I do that seems to work after anti theft activates is open hood and swap diode positions. So far cranks after that but it may have been I held my left arm in the air after walking around the truck twice.
On occasion, it won’t crank at all (no power, no dash lights , nothing). When that has happened, I wiggled fuse link positive battery cabl (has black plastic protective cover over the wire) and I get crank and start.
3rd mechanic didn’t see a problem.
More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2009
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...g-problem.html
Voltmeter is your friend there. Check voltage drop around. On off should be worn out some wire or ground. Again voltage drop time. I sow you have problem for one year. Or play with voltmeter or give it to Ford stealership to find what is problem.
Voltmeter is your friend there. Check voltage drop around. On off should be worn out some wire or ground. Again voltage drop time. I sow you have problem for one year. Or play with voltmeter or give it to Ford stealership to find what is problem.