Won't start - fuel pump problems
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Won't start - fuel pump problems
89 Bronco 2 2wd 2.9 fuel injected.
Won't start. When I use quick start it turns over and fires and runs briefly until the 'quick start' burns off.
When I turn the ignition key, I don't get the wine from the fuel pump, so it's either shot or not getting any power.
I read the other posts and checked the relays on the passenger side in the engine compartment. There are three. They all chick when the key is turned. How do I tell if they are faulty. Which relay is responsible for the fuel pump. One is green, one brown and the other whitish.
Is there a fuse under the steering column in the box that controls the fuel pump?
I would like to trouble shoot as much as possible before I have to remove the pump and check to see that it is the problem.
I think I located the fuel pump on the frame below the drivers' position. Looks like a large in line fuel filter. Difficult to locate the wires that are suppose to eminate from it.
When I locate the wires from it how do I check them for power?
Have a multitester.
Need some imput.
Thanks
Won't start. When I use quick start it turns over and fires and runs briefly until the 'quick start' burns off.
When I turn the ignition key, I don't get the wine from the fuel pump, so it's either shot or not getting any power.
I read the other posts and checked the relays on the passenger side in the engine compartment. There are three. They all chick when the key is turned. How do I tell if they are faulty. Which relay is responsible for the fuel pump. One is green, one brown and the other whitish.
Is there a fuse under the steering column in the box that controls the fuel pump?
I would like to trouble shoot as much as possible before I have to remove the pump and check to see that it is the problem.
I think I located the fuel pump on the frame below the drivers' position. Looks like a large in line fuel filter. Difficult to locate the wires that are suppose to eminate from it.
When I locate the wires from it how do I check them for power?
Have a multitester.
Need some imput.
Thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,562
Likes: 4
From: South Jersey
The green on is the FP. Try testing for power at the inertia switch, up at the top of the carpet on the passengers side. You should have 12v dc from both if you probe them with a pin, the negative side of the meter goes to ground.
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That thing that looks like a fuel filter is a fuel filter. If I'm not mistaken, the '89 is like the '90, so your FP is in the tank. You can see the fuel lines and wires if you look over the differential with a light.
Power will only stay on for about 2 seconds when the key is in the "run" position. The FP will go "whirrrp" and shut off if the engine doesn't start.
There is a 30 amp FP relay fuse in the power distribution pack above the relays. I think you have the same symptoms as I did, a bad FP.
The wire that goes directly to the FP is the pink/black wire ('89 wire schematic) you will see at the inertia switch (where Ken said).
Power will only stay on for about 2 seconds when the key is in the "run" position. The FP will go "whirrrp" and shut off if the engine doesn't start.
There is a 30 amp FP relay fuse in the power distribution pack above the relays. I think you have the same symptoms as I did, a bad FP.
The wire that goes directly to the FP is the pink/black wire ('89 wire schematic) you will see at the inertia switch (where Ken said).
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Access hole to fuel pump pics
Here's what I did instead of trying to drop the tank. There's a double layer of sheet metal and that's why it has about a 2" border at the top of the hole. I used a disk wheel to cut the metal, but first I placed a sopping wet towel on top of the fuel tank from underneath. I was VERY careful not to cut all the way through. It's obvious that a jig-saw with a blade cannot be used. I pried out the metal and the fuel pump was easy to get to. If one was to cut into the tank or fuel hose, they would be burned to an unrecognizable (dead) lump of charred flesh & bone. I had a fire extinguisher and water just outside the vehicle.
The old fuel pump with the float unit still attached. Float unit is held on with some screws. The new FP requires you cut the wire and use the provided butt splice.
The old fuel pump with the float unit still attached. Float unit is held on with some screws. The new FP requires you cut the wire and use the provided butt splice.
Last edited by pozner; Nov 6, 2003 at 02:01 AM.
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pozner and ken00 Thanks for the direction.
I will go out and check it right now. Will keep you posted.
I hope it is just a power issue, but if I have to go after the pump, then I am going thru the floor plating as pozner illustrated.
Thanks again.
I will go out and check it right now. Will keep you posted.
I hope it is just a power issue, but if I have to go after the pump, then I am going thru the floor plating as pozner illustrated.
Thanks again.
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In Engine compartment:
30 amp fuse checked o.k.
grn relay...clicks when the key is turned on.....not sure how to check it for function. Does that mean it's working?
Located the inertia switch right where you said. Separated the connector and inserted into the pink and blk wire pink...grounded the blk to battery. No voltage....zero. (with the key on and when turned just before engaging the started motor). The adjacent wire in the connector showed a voltage of 6.75 volts.
I have the ranger and bronco 2 manual by haynes. from 1983 to 1989. No mention of the inertia switch in the book. I assume this switch kills the power to the fuel pump during an accident or for roll over ...right??
I am going to go out and buy a newer manual. Any suggestions on which is best?
O.K...Since I don't have power at this switch...does it mean that the relay is screwed or what???
What do I check next to determine if it is an electrical or FP problem.
Sorry for being such a pain...but without a wiring diagram...my book only has them for the 1986, I don't know how to trouble shoot this circuit.
30 amp fuse checked o.k.
grn relay...clicks when the key is turned on.....not sure how to check it for function. Does that mean it's working?
Located the inertia switch right where you said. Separated the connector and inserted into the pink and blk wire pink...grounded the blk to battery. No voltage....zero. (with the key on and when turned just before engaging the started motor). The adjacent wire in the connector showed a voltage of 6.75 volts.
I have the ranger and bronco 2 manual by haynes. from 1983 to 1989. No mention of the inertia switch in the book. I assume this switch kills the power to the fuel pump during an accident or for roll over ...right??
I am going to go out and buy a newer manual. Any suggestions on which is best?
O.K...Since I don't have power at this switch...does it mean that the relay is screwed or what???
What do I check next to determine if it is an electrical or FP problem.
Sorry for being such a pain...but without a wiring diagram...my book only has them for the 1986, I don't know how to trouble shoot this circuit.
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Think I screwed up here. I probed the part of the connector removed from the inertia switch. The hot side should have been the pins exiting the inertia switch right? Did you want me to probe the pins exiting and attached to the inertia switch?
I going to go out and buy the book now, I hate doing this blind.
I going to go out and buy the book now, I hate doing this blind.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: South Jersey
You should have 12v at the o/lb wire at the ineritia switch. This wire comes from the FP relay. Fuse #1 at the PDB powers this circuit and a blk/y wire runs from the PDB to the FP relay. See ehat kind of power you have at those places.
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From: peoria, az
"Located the inertia switch right where you said. Separated the connector and inserted into the pink and blk wire pink...grounded the blk to battery. No voltage....zero. (with the key on and when turned just before engaging the started motor). The adjacent wire in the connector showed a voltage of 6.75 volts. "
Here is a clue to your problem. If you unplugged the switch, then you won't get anything on the P/BK wire. BUT, you should have 12.00v on the other wire. You lost 6v somewhere.
Go back to your relay. You should have 12v at 1 term at all times. Turn the key on, you should have 12v at 3 term's for about 2 or 3 sec's and then power at 2 of them.. The 4th one is the ground thru the comp. Somewhere between here and the inertia switch, you lost 6v.
(on edit) Don't mean to step on your toes Ken.
Here is a clue to your problem. If you unplugged the switch, then you won't get anything on the P/BK wire. BUT, you should have 12.00v on the other wire. You lost 6v somewhere.
Go back to your relay. You should have 12v at 1 term at all times. Turn the key on, you should have 12v at 3 term's for about 2 or 3 sec's and then power at 2 of them.. The 4th one is the ground thru the comp. Somewhere between here and the inertia switch, you lost 6v.
(on edit) Don't mean to step on your toes Ken.
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Have you formulated a plan if the outcome is a bad FP? I'm sure it will need replacing, inculding the filter. I wasted 3 days running every conceivable diagnostic before I replaced the pump. I got mine at Advance Auto for $130. Yes, I got the least expensive pump, but it was Sunday and I wanted to get going.
These things don't give much warning. The TFI module on the distributor went bad first, and both times the Bronco started fine, I parked it at work and that was it. No mo worky. I wasted a week with the TFI. Of course, first thing you think of is a bad coil, but it's usually the TFI. Both times I used "Quick Start" and sprayed it into the intake as one of the tests. Engine will run, but stop if the FP is bad, and engine won't start at all if the TFI (or coil) is bad.
Have you resigned yourself to replacing the pump?
I found the new Chilton repair manual has good schematics and covers up to '90 B IIs.
These things don't give much warning. The TFI module on the distributor went bad first, and both times the Bronco started fine, I parked it at work and that was it. No mo worky. I wasted a week with the TFI. Of course, first thing you think of is a bad coil, but it's usually the TFI. Both times I used "Quick Start" and sprayed it into the intake as one of the tests. Engine will run, but stop if the FP is bad, and engine won't start at all if the TFI (or coil) is bad.
Have you resigned yourself to replacing the pump?
I found the new Chilton repair manual has good schematics and covers up to '90 B IIs.
Last edited by pozner; Nov 9, 2003 at 12:01 PM.