Won't start - fuel pump problems
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 37
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I checked the power at the inertia switch...the blk pink wire has power leaving the switch. It reads 6 volts (key turned to the on position) and 12 volts when it is turned to the crank position.
So I have 12 volts making it thru the relays et al.
My next step will be to check for power at the connector on the pump to see if it is reaching the pump. If I have power there, then I will check the ground leaving the pump.
If that all checks out then I have pretty well ruled out that the pump is shot.
I am beginning to think pozner was right at the get go.
If anyone can think of a better approach, by all means let me know. I just got the wiring diagram from ken00 (thanks again) and I can at least see the circuit.
I may cut the access hole in the back when I check the leads to get ready for the FP removal.
If I fix this problem then I will get the chilton's manual for future repairs.
thanks guys.
So I have 12 volts making it thru the relays et al.
My next step will be to check for power at the connector on the pump to see if it is reaching the pump. If I have power there, then I will check the ground leaving the pump.
If that all checks out then I have pretty well ruled out that the pump is shot.
I am beginning to think pozner was right at the get go.
If anyone can think of a better approach, by all means let me know. I just got the wiring diagram from ken00 (thanks again) and I can at least see the circuit.
I may cut the access hole in the back when I check the leads to get ready for the FP removal.
If I fix this problem then I will get the chilton's manual for future repairs.
thanks guys.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 37
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Back again.
I cut the access hole in the bed just as pozner suggested....use the wet towel and everything. Must admit, I think I picked up more grey hair from the adventure....
I pulled the connector from the fuel pump and checked with the gauge. Bridged the pink/blk to the blk and took voltage readings.
Again it was 6 volts (key on) and 12 volts (key advanced)...seems like there is lots of power where it should be.....my conclusion...pump is shot.
Now I have to remove the pump. Wife hid my hayes manual...and she is out.
There is a large washer/bolt holding it all into place. Do I need a special tool to loosen this thing??
I heading out to price both a fuel pump and pick up a new manual.
Thanks again.
I cut the access hole in the bed just as pozner suggested....use the wet towel and everything. Must admit, I think I picked up more grey hair from the adventure....
I pulled the connector from the fuel pump and checked with the gauge. Bridged the pink/blk to the blk and took voltage readings.
Again it was 6 volts (key on) and 12 volts (key advanced)...seems like there is lots of power where it should be.....my conclusion...pump is shot.
Now I have to remove the pump. Wife hid my hayes manual...and she is out.
There is a large washer/bolt holding it all into place. Do I need a special tool to loosen this thing??
I heading out to price both a fuel pump and pick up a new manual.
Thanks again.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,562
Likes: 4
From: South Jersey
You should be hot at fuse one all the time and that feeds the power to the pump, something isn't right there. Also 6 volts in the on position doesn't sounds right either, you should get full 12v for a few seconds and then nothing when the EEC turns off the power since you didn't start the truck.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2003
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Well the pump is out and I just replaced, screwed and wired the new one onto the sending unit.
I will throw it in tomorrow.
Ken00, I was wondering about the voltage thing as well. Might be me not using the multitester properly.
Anyway I will throw the pump in tomorrow and if it works then I am off to the races...if not then I am out 300 and have a short or something in the engine compartment.
Thanks again
I will throw it in tomorrow.
Ken00, I was wondering about the voltage thing as well. Might be me not using the multitester properly.
Anyway I will throw the pump in tomorrow and if it works then I am off to the races...if not then I am out 300 and have a short or something in the engine compartment.
Thanks again
Junior User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Didn't know you were in The Great White North, eh?
I don't recall the exact voltage reading at 'key on', but it may have been 6.5VDC. Maybe some time I may check it again and use the "peak voltage memory" feature which locks in the highest voltage even if you can't see it on the readout.
Also, the EEC may control that voltage, allowing 12 vdc only if it sees a good FP. You can see by the schematic that the feed to that 30 amp FP relay fuse is full voltage.
I feel confident that the B II will be happy with the new (but expensive) pump. My Jeep Grand Cherokee FP cost double the Bronco pump.
Although a radical step, I thought cutting the access hole saved me a lot of work because I don't even have a garage to work in, but living in south Florida, I don't worry too much about snow.
I don't recall the exact voltage reading at 'key on', but it may have been 6.5VDC. Maybe some time I may check it again and use the "peak voltage memory" feature which locks in the highest voltage even if you can't see it on the readout.
Also, the EEC may control that voltage, allowing 12 vdc only if it sees a good FP. You can see by the schematic that the feed to that 30 amp FP relay fuse is full voltage.
I feel confident that the B II will be happy with the new (but expensive) pump. My Jeep Grand Cherokee FP cost double the Bronco pump.
Although a radical step, I thought cutting the access hole saved me a lot of work because I don't even have a garage to work in, but living in south Florida, I don't worry too much about snow.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 37
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Put the fuel pump in and she fired up right away.
Thanks for the help ken00 and pozner...really appreciate it.
If you need any advise on stalking polar bears or constructing an igloo, don't hesitate to ask....lol.
pozner...what did you do with the hole in the rear?....I thinking about pop rivetting an aluminum or sheet metal plate over it.
Thanks for the help ken00 and pozner...really appreciate it.
If you need any advise on stalking polar bears or constructing an igloo, don't hesitate to ask....lol.
pozner...what did you do with the hole in the rear?....I thinking about pop rivetting an aluminum or sheet metal plate over it.
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Closing the access hole
Originally posted by Nothingspecial
Put the fuel pump in and she fired up right away.
snip
pozner...what did you do with the hole in the rear?....I thinking about pop rivetting an aluminum or sheet metal plate over it.
Put the fuel pump in and she fired up right away.
snip
pozner...what did you do with the hole in the rear?....I thinking about pop rivetting an aluminum or sheet metal plate over it.
It's covered but I haven't sealed it yet (not a priority), but this is what I plan on doing.
Pop rivet some tabs around the access hole. Place the cover I cut out onto the tabs. Apply a heavy bead or two of black RTV silicon to seal it up.
Or,
Using the pop rivited tabs and cover, use fiberglass tape or cloth and polyester resin to cover the area. I'll use something to block the drill bit from accidently hitting the tank, hoses and wires.
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