That is correct
Your theft light is not on right?

 

With the key off the alternator case should not be magnetized
That could be part of your problem if it is dragging the battery voltage down below 10.6 volts
Do you have a test light and or a dvom?

 

Well I tried to start today nothing much a few clicks, then I tried to do the solenoid switch thing and didn’t get it to crank over. My theft light comes on but goes away after I turn the key all the way. I’m wondering if the broken bolt where the starter is mounted if that matters, or when the v person who put the starter on broke the positive that goes to starter, put his own clip on if it’s all making contact. He also stated at one time “oh it wasn’t tight it grounded itself”. That sounds like a problem. I am getting a new alternator soon I just don’t know how it would’ve gone bad I just put it on in may.

 

Maybe I need that tprs thing

 

Bad ground?

 

Sabrina,
The starter has to be bolted tight to the block to ground properly
I take it you have no test light or DVOM (digital volt ohm meter)
The tprs you mention. Could you be talking about the transmission range switch?
That is the neutral safety switch and backup light switch combo these days
You need to do a couple of simple voltage tests to figure out what is not happening for your start circuit
Paul

 

BTW,
The TR sensor if malfunctioning as in no start will set a code (should set a code)
Transmission Range

 

This is concerning. If you can't get the starter to crank manually then you're either not jumpering correctly, batt voltage is too low, cables are bad, starter is bad or engine is seized

 

The engine was hand cranked to make sure it wasn’t locked and it wasn’t locked when I drove it there, before I drove it there if died at the grocery store someone beat on the starter until it started. Mind the battery and the starter were the original in fact 1999. Also I don’t have one of those digital things but I’m about to go buy one. I thing it’s the battery cables actually because of what he said about grounding itself. The battery is brand new because I first had it tested the day it died and they said it was great then after I began working on it I took it back and they said it was bad

 

About the code funny thing is I have the blue driver obd and it ran one time without it running abs said the ignition switch but it always says that. Anyway it got changed and after that and of course before f that was the starter change ans possible self grounding, any way It wouldn’t even run scan not connectsd to vehicle

 

manicmechanic007 I purchased the meter and now I need further assistance because I know lots of stufff about stuff and learn quick but This is my first time messing with electrical crap in a vehicle but I do not the battery has to be disconnected for damn near every thing, well in my opinion, but this is going to require a little lesson or so. I also got some of those screw extractors hopefully I can get that bolt out myself. I’m dedicated and too stubborn to not be able to fix it. I bought a trailer last summer purchased 2 years worth of plates and I haven’t even gotten to pull the damn thing yet.

 

I didn't watch the whole thing but this one looks promising. You'll primarily be focusing on DC voltage and continuity/resistance

 

Sabrina,
The battery only needs to be disconnected to do resistance tests on a few circuits to protect your meter
If I am checking the wires back to your gas tank for a gauge concern. I am not disconnecting the battery
Back to the bolt that broke. On the starter? The positive?
You are going to be doing voltage tests to start with and if the volts are insufficient then I would have you do some resistance tests
One more note. The starter solenoid on the fender does need a decent ground
I am glad to her that you are quick to learn and you are about to get a tutorial if you want
I have to work on a 68 Camaro for a whole but I will be back later
First thing is to charge the battery so you are dealing with at least 12.5 when you start testing

 

the battery is brand new it’s only been connected once and that was when I replaced switch and mine is located on then firewall

 

Great it should have about 12.5 volts or so and you can start testing
Take a picture of the starter and post it so I can see what you are talking about with the broken bolt