It depends on how handy you are and/or if u have anyone handy helping. A long block from Asheville motors can be bought and installed for under 10k easily. If u know what u are doing the motor can be redone for under 5k rebuilding the existing block top end. If u have good access to parts I’ve done them for under 3k.

 

A 2wd is more likely to be pampered...my wife's is nothing more than a grocery getter and/or out of town trip road machine, it gets 20+ mpg highway. We have 3 girls, so if we do take my truck, first thing out of my mouth before we leave the driveway is: "does everyone have their sports bra on"...and it's worse if I have a trailer behind me.

 

I am handy, but not to the point of rebuilding engines. I know I could learn, but the time sink is probably the biggest issue.

I am going to look at an '01 4WD with 140K miles and the 6.8L V10 tomorrow. I'll be sure to:
1. Check the plugs for any blowouts
2. Be extra diligent in listening to/feeling the transmission as it goes through gears
3. Test out the 4WD to ensure the hubs engage properly
4. Detailed inspection of all rust

Any other tips on what to look out for or check?
Is the gear ratio listed in the glove box spec sticker with a special code or something?

 

Gear ratio should be listed in code on the white door jamb sticker, but some early EXs don’t have the spot under “axle” filled in.
Code “31” is a 3.73 non limited slip.
Code “C1” is a limited slip 3.73.
Code “C3” is a 4.30 limited slip.
Those are the 3 factory options for a 6.8 EX.
If the code isn’t listed on the sticker check the RPMs at 60 MPH (if it has the stock sized tires 265/75R16) if it’s under 2000 revs it’s a 3.73 and over is a 4.30.

Be sure to check the operation of every switch and ****.
Common rust areas are the inner rockers, rockers, lower C pillar dogleg, wheel well opening flange and cargo area floor.
Check to see how many of the 20 exhaust manifold studs are broken and missing, use these as bargaining chips on the price. Shops will want about $800 to drill out, remove and replace the studs, but we can guide you through the job at home.
Give all of the steering linkage a good shake to feel for any play signaling worn out components.

 

Thank you @WE3ZS!

 

I ended up buying a 2001 Excursion Limited, 6.8L V10 w/118K miles, 4WD, 4.3 limited slip rear end, super clean 1 owner and NO RUST yesterday for $11.5K. I probably paid too much, but it met all the criteria. I figured there is a cost of my time searching as well.

It was 9 hours away one way so it made for a LONG day. It drove back the 9 hours great...its a BEAST. I'm too tired to post more now.

My first order of business is to find a chrome 'Canyonero' badge to put on it!

Lots more questions now...should I start a new post on this or continue it here?

 

Congrats! From the description it doesn’t seem like you overpaid at all in this current used truck market.

I would start a new thread with more of a mod and maintenance title vs this purchase advice one, better focused views that way and more on topic.

 

I agree...but come on, we need to see some pictures before you leave this thread!

 

Here is a picture of it after driving 9 hours through partially salt covered roads from Virginia to Ohio. As soon as it warms up its going in for a deep wash.


It is pretty bone stock. The only things wrong with it that I have found (so far) are:

1. The check engine light is on. I was told this upon inspection and we checked the code together. It reads transmission speed sensor or something. It is a $58 part if that truly is what is flagging the code. The vast majority of these codes are for that part and not the tranny. It shifted super smooth and no issues for the entire drive back. I was told that this came on after he had a tire blowout a couple weeks ago that damaged the inside front drivers side wheel well. Perhaps there are wires from the sensor that run up through this area and it may be a wiring harness fix to the sensor instead.
1b. Related to the first is the wheel well. Any ideas on where to find a replacement or is a junk yard my best friend on this?

2. The cruise control does not seem to turn on. Maybe this is associated with the sensor and or wheel well/wiring issue.

3. No remote unlock key FOBs. He is going to find them and send in the mail (hopefully). I do have the key code for the door buttons though.

4. The steering is annoyingly loose, but not horrible. This could be a zero dollar adjustment of the steering box or hundreds of dollars. Either way I'm getting it fixed. I HATE loose steering.

Picture of damaged wheel well below...


It still has the plastic dealer covering in the rear hatch area. I'm debating whether to tear this off or not. I can't believe its been on there for 21.5 years!

 

Nice! Was it a Firestone or General tire that blew? I would think the best place for that inner fender liner is going to be a wrecking yard...even if you can get an aftermarket it probably won't have the quality of the oem unit. I bet you're correct about that sensor and/or wiring relative to the codes. I would leave that dealer covering intact and put a weather guard type mat over it...we have one that's the matching beige color which also has a lip to contain spills.

 

Looks like a winner!

I agree on a parts yard being your best bet to find the inner liner, I would think any Super Duty liner from that generation should match.
Go through everything in that area looking for your any wiring that looks like it might have been damaged and address that to see if it helps with the codes.

 

https://www.billetbadges.com/

 

I do not know what brand blew. I assume that it was a general tire that blew and he replaced them with the firestones since they look newer.
Good advice on the weather-tech mat to go over the plastic!

 

Perfect...thanks!