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Is there anything I need to do to ensure the alignment of the rear axle doesn’t get messed up? I know to do one side at a time and I know it’s a simple remove and replace, I just want to make sure it is simple as it looks.
So, if you're adding lift, you will need to jack up the truck higher than I did. Also, be aware that some aftermarket blocks have multiple holes for the alignment pins. You must use the exact same hole on both left & right sides.
So, if you're adding lift, you will need to jack up the truck higher than I did. Also, be aware that some aftermarket blocks have multiple holes for the alignment pins. You must use the exact same hole on both left & right sides.
I appreciate that. I’m planning on buying Tremor rear blocks. My truck is a short bed and Tremors only come in short bed so the alignment pins and taper should be the same.
On my 17 I took a measurement between front and rear axles after the swap and driver's side was 1 inch longer. Loosened ubolts and equalized so both sides were the same distance apart. Drove fine for 5 years until trade in.
Another thing to consider is tail shaft and pinion shaft angles. I found that when I lowered my 2017, I wound up with identical angles on both shafts (that's a good thing). Unfortunately, I did not measure their angles before lowering. I mention this because some OEM blocks are tapered.
I raised my 2017 LB F350 rear an inch. The kit I used had a shim to put under the carrier bearing. Pretty simple job. You need a big torque wrench. I think the u bolt torque was 190 ft lbs.
Would I have to worry about the tailshaft and pinion angles going from a standard F250 rear block to the Tremor rear block? The Tremor block is still a “stock” Ford part and I doubt they are making these types of adjustments as the trucks go down the line in Kentucky.
Like I said, some OEM blocks are tapered ... top and bottom faces are not always parallel. I don't recall the angle tolerance, but being within 1° of each other would be ideal. If the blocks you remove are tapered, then the new blocks should also be tapered the same amount. What I found odd in my situation is the blocks I removed were tapered, but the new OEM shorter blocks were parallel, yet I wound up with parallel tail and pinion shaft angles. And again, I failed to measure the angles before the swap.
You may find this short article of interest ... https://jniolon.classicpickup.com/dr...nephasing.html
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.