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Old Jan 27, 2022 | 12:12 PM
  #16  
Romark's Avatar
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Take the hitch out when not using it. Problem solved. Can't steal it if its not there. I don't like grease on my pants or busted shins from hitting a hitch that is not hooked to a trailer. I especially like seeing the ones that are completely rusted and obvious never had a trailer on them. What's the point?
 
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Old Jan 27, 2022 | 12:15 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Frank79
I just saw your post and headed over to your link. WOW, that's pretty depressing on how vulnerable these locks are.
thief is a thief anything that slows them down usually will have them moving on. I went with a locking hitch pin because I don’t leave a hitch in the receiver unless I’m towing. So for at the boat launch someone doesn’t grab my $300 hitch while I’m in the lake. As soon as I’m home it gets folded and out under the seat. I’m not busting out wrenches all the time.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2022 | 12:28 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Frank79
Whats the go to locking hitch pins for the receiver?
I bought some from Bullet Proof Hitch a few years ago, but their prices seemed to have doubled since then.
bought masterlock one from oreily for towing our 28' TT with equalizer hitch. bent pin in two years and had to throw it away. i can't recommend it.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2022 | 01:26 PM
  #19  
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I have a Curt locking pin in mine. I leave my hitch and pin in all the time. Had the same style pin in my '14 for 6 winters and was able to still unlock the pin and remove the hitch when I sold it. I've also already been saved twice from people slowly sliding into my truck at stop lights in the winter, where the hitch took the hit and not my rear bumper. Too many people I know have had hitches taken while running into a store for a few minutes. Even if the lock is "pickable", it is a deterrent from somebody that is just looking to pull a cotter pin and run.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2022 | 02:06 PM
  #20  
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I used to leave my hitch in all the time until I saw the extreme twisting damage that happened to a truck on the F-150 forum. Because the car hit it from behind, it hit the hitch hanging down and it acted like a lever and twisted the crap out of the rear frame / bed area. What should have been a damaged bumper turned into a rear frame replacement. In today's world of short supplies I'd rather not entertain that possible scenario.

And I hate hitting my shins on the hitch because I am old and forgetful.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2022 | 02:15 PM
  #21  
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I use one I got from a Fred Meyer (Kroger for those easterly of Oregon). I have whitnessed a random person pulling hitch pins at a rest stop before. Thats when I bought the one I use (15-20 years ago) and I also put a lock on the trailer coupler as well.

For me its peace of mind that nothing will come undone while in transit. I remove these locks and the hitch when not towing.

My "locks" are this style:

 
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Old Jan 27, 2022 | 02:40 PM
  #22  
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I recently purchased this Infinite Rule from etrailer. It seems like it would be fairly secure due to the way it engages. It screws together, using the key, . Hard to explain, but there's a video. It was about $10 more than I wanted to spend, but I'm pretty happy with the product.

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer_Hit...4061073-D.html
 
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Old Jan 27, 2022 | 02:43 PM
  #23  
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I have the Factor 55 locking hitch pin. Stainless, US made, and it fits the 2-1/2" receiver perfectly. The design is resistant to the common pry/snap off with a pipe attack.

Yes the lock picking lawyer can pick it but he can pick anything. I don't guess most hitch thieves have a pick set.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2022 | 04:30 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 05F250DSL
thief is a thief anything that slows them down usually will have them moving on. I went with a locking hitch pin because I don’t leave a hitch in the receiver unless I’m towing. So for at the boat launch someone doesn’t grab my $300 hitch while I’m in the lake. As soon as I’m home it gets folded and out under the seat. I’m not busting out wrenches all the time.
Same for me. I went with a Curt locking just to have a "visual" of the lock while I'm towing boat/trailer. Once back in the garage the hitch and pin come off and go back under the rear seat. Goal is to keep honest people honest --- if someone really wants to take your stuff; they're going to be prepared to take it.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2022 | 04:50 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by rna352
I have the Factor 55 locking hitch pin. Stainless, US made, and it fits the 2-1/2" receiver perfectly. The design is resistant to the common pry/snap off with a pipe attack.

Yes the lock picking lawyer can pick it but he can pick anything. I don't guess most hitch thieves have a pick set.
Locks only keep honest people honest and that is the bottom line. He also shows how easily they can be defeated with some simple brute force attacks.
They make you feel good than the company has achieved it's purpose because they aren't protecting anything but your feel good vibes. hahaha
 
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Old Jan 27, 2022 | 05:07 PM
  #26  
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I got one by Anderson, the hitch company, and like it.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2022 | 05:14 PM
  #27  
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Call me what you will, but I use this entire system. All keyed the same, security pins, and amazing build quality.
Amazon Amazon
 
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Old Jan 29, 2022 | 01:12 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Frank79
There are to many mixed reviews on using a Grade 8 bolt as a hitch pin. Sure its only a few bucks. But I have not read anything that makes me go to Lowes and one.
I stand corrected. After thinking of this for a few days, I noticed that my trailer has an adjustable c Channel with the coupler being held on with Grade 8 bolts. So why is a trailer c channel good enough for a grade 8 bolt but attaching the hitch to the receiver is not (from what Ive read several times.)
I went and got some bolts and washers. I need more washers though to make up the slack difference since my threads come past the through holes on the side, which is a good thing seeing as how the bolt shank will be the only thing touching the metal parts..
 
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Old Jan 29, 2022 | 01:57 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Frank79
I stand corrected. After thinking of this for a few days, I noticed that my trailer has an adjustable c Channel with the coupler being held on with Grade 8 bolts. So why is a trailer c channel good enough for a grade 8 bolt but attaching the hitch to the receiver is not (from what Ive read several times.)
I went and got some bolts and washers. I need more washers though to make up the slack difference since my threads come past the through holes on the side, which is a good thing seeing as how the bolt shank will be the only thing touching the metal parts..
can't tell if those are grade 8 without seeing the bolt head.

Grade 8 are basically bridge bolts. Much stronger than the pins you buy off the shelf at walmart. You'll bend or break something else before a grade 8 bolt the size of your hitch pin hole.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2022 | 03:27 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by davidpacificnw
can't tell if those are grade 8 without seeing the bolt head.

Grade 8 are basically bridge bolts. Much stronger than the pins you buy off the shelf at walmart. You'll bend or break something else before a grade 8 bolt the size of your hitch pin hole.
Here ya go.
 
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