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The main reason that I liked the set up that the OilGuard System provides, is that it is easily removed, in the event of a failure of an injector. I would not recomend the drilling of the valve cover, simply for this reason,(even though it is a slick set up) unless you have a dealer that is really not going to be a jerk about it. They can void your warranty, for a simple thing, such as the addition of a by-pass filter. And with all their problems, would not put it past them.
I can understand the dealers reason for warranty voidage for a chip (too much hp), maybe an aftermarket air filter (doesn't filter as well), but what would the reasoning be behind a bypass filter? And yes, Ive heard of dealers I wouldn't put it past.
vino, if I were to get one I think it would be an afe with proguard 7, have only heard good things about them.
You are taking oil pressure,"out of the loop" it was not designed for that, or any of a bunch of other reasons I can think of. Seems nuts, I agree, but....... Anything to get out of paying for something.
Lariat
I finally did it; put my Oilguard on today; put in 4 gallons of Mobil 1 Delvac; am driving to Mobile, AL tonight, a 45 mile trip will check the oil level in the AM; think I'll have to add more? The engine sounds quieter to me; how often are we going to have to change the OEM filter? I'm going to send in an oil sample from the original oil with 4300 miles on it. I did see some metal pieces on the magnet oil pan screw. I didn't use the valve cover entrance.
Thanks to all. Maybe we should start a sub-category OilGuard.
Bill Striegel,
PS I Noticed my drive shaft is completely rusted. It has Alert #
A11415728 on it. Does anyone know what this means? And , the best way to paint it. ?Rustoleum? Where should I post this query?
Wow, were going to have to keep in touch for comparison. I changed mine @ 4380 miles. Ive seen many posts of people changing oil, putting in 15 qts and being over full. Its seems some oil gets trapped in the high pressure oil system. I thought I was going to be short with only 16 qts (thought the oilgaurd would take more than 1 qt), but I'm between 3/4 and full. I'm now @ 5000 miles and the level hasn't changed. Oilguard says if you don't use oil analysis you should change both filters at double the manufactures interval. The best way is to let oil analysis tell you when its needed. As far as the drive-shaft, unless your concerned about looks I wouldn't worry about it.
Originally posted by vino53 I finally did it; put my Oilguard on today; put in 4 gallons of Mobil 1 Delvac; am driving to Mobile, AL tonight, a 45 mile trip will check the oil level in the AM; think I'll have to add more? The engine sounds quieter to me; how often are we going to have to change the OEM filter? I'm going to send in an oil sample from the original oil with 4300 miles on it. I did see some metal pieces on the magnet oil pan screw. I didn't use the valve cover entrance.
Thanks to all. Maybe we should start a sub-category OilGuard.
Bill Striegel,
PS I Noticed my drive shaft is completely rusted. It has Alert #
A11415728 on it. Does anyone know what this means? And , the best way to paint it. ?Rustoleum? Where should I post this query?
You need to remove enough oil to show at the first hash marks on the dipstick. From the bottom
IMO
The mechanic who assisted me put in all 4 gallons of Mobil 1 Delvac; the oil level is at the top of the plastic reader; where it meets the metal; would you remove a 1/2 quart, or let it be? I have the sample **** on the oilguard to enableme to do it easily. So, in actuality, I needed 15 1/2 quarts.
The mechanic who assisted me put in all 4 gallons of Mobil 1 Delvac; the oil level is at the top of the plastic reader; where it meets the metal; would you remove a 1/2 quart, or let it be? I have the sample **** on the oilguard to enableme to do it easily. So, in actuality, I needed 15 1/2 quarts.
Because of the extremely large surface are of the pan. (It has a large cross section); you will actually need to remove 1.2 to 1.4 quarts.
Drain with the oil guard petcock. Make sure the oil is at the START of the cross hatch on the dipstick.
I would do it over two days, remove some and then drive and then sit and then check. Do not worry about how much you remove, worry about what the dipstick shows.
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