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Hey guys. I have a 75 f250 w/o a/c. I did a search, but found threads of no help with the actual box rebuild how-to. Does anyone know of a thread with some good pix? Thx.
You don't really need to go that far. Basically remove the old heater core, add strip foam to the new one, and slap it in. I also repainted by mine due to rust issues, and repaired the blower motor. VGG's video is a little lacking some attention to detail. For instance, instead of tube sealer use 3M mastic for the covers that bolt on.
You don't really need to go that far. Basically remove the old heater core, add strip foam to the new one, and slap it in. I also repainted by mine due to rust issues, and repaired the blower motor. VGG's video is a little lacking some attention to detail. For instance, instead of tube sealer use 3M mastic for the covers that bolt on.
The motor, heater core, blower wheel and resistor are available. That’s it as far as wear items. The rest are hard parts. You won’t find new replacements. If you need metal or plastic pieces of the box itself you will have to find used. You should be able to find the fasteners pretty easily. I used stainless for the aesthetics. POR15 or spray paint off your choice for the metal refinish. Black silicone RTV is a good gentle yet playable adhesive for the foam around the dampers; you won’t be able to buy these so fixing is what I had to do. White lithium grease for the moving parts. Self adhesive foam works great around the heater core; I used a combination of low and medium density both about 1/2” thick. I reused the original heater core after cleaning and painting with radiator spray paint; it was in great shape and I have heard of reliability issues on the imported aluminum replacements.
To summarize, I took the best parts from two boxes and made one good box. The west coast is easier on metal while the east is better for plastic.
Removing the box is harder than rebuilding it. Carefully drill out the rivets and go to town. If you have any specific questions post them and I’ll do my best to answer. Here are a few pics for reference.
Can someone look at this link and tell me what item 'H' is for? I assume it is to seal around where the duct for the defrost to windshield joins the box. Is that correct? page 74 of the pdf catalog, item H.
Can someone look at this link and tell me what item 'H' is for? I assume it is to seal around where the duct for the defrost to windshield joins the box. Is that correct? page 74 of the pdf catalog, item H.
I don’t recognize that part as being on a dent side… I couldn’t find a seal to the defrost duct so I used self adhesive low density foam. It’s a loose, floating connection so I used black gorilla duct tape all the way around so it would be sealed.
Thanks. I'm going to jump in and pull the box and get started. I'm sure it's full of leaves, so I'll install a screen on the vent to keep debris out. This should be fun.
I pulled my heater unit and right away I could see that the seal kit I purchased was pretty much useless. The problem I had was that the PO, when he replaced the heater core, he must have glued the foam top and bottom to the core and the glue bonded the core to the housing. It was frozen in place and I couldn't budge it. Once I grinded off the oem rivets and removed the metal back plate, I worked on loosening the core for a couple of hours, gently trying to separate the core from the housing with a putty knife. As I rocked the core back and forth while trying to pull it free, the housing cracked. That was a costly ouch.
Here is what a dug out of the side vent.
Here is the inside of the housing.
Here are the two heartbreaks (cracks) I had.
The odd thing about the core is that even with that hole, I can plug one hose attachment and blow through the other, and don't loose pressure. I'll try to soldier it and test the pressure under water. I have a replacement but it's aluminum, and I'd rather stay with the copper brass. Advice?
The motor, heater core, blower wheel and resistor are available. That’s it as far as wear items. The rest are hard parts. You won’t find new replacements. If you need metal or plastic pieces of the box itself you will have to find used. You should be able to find the fasteners pretty easily. I used stainless for the aesthetics. POR15 or spray paint off your choice for the metal refinish. Black silicone RTV is a good gentle yet playable adhesive for the foam around the dampers; you won’t be able to buy these so fixing is what I had to do. White lithium grease for the moving parts. Self adhesive foam works great around the heater core; I used a combination of low and medium density both about 1/2” thick. I reused the original heater core after cleaning and painting with radiator spray paint; it was in great shape and I have heard of reliability issues on the imported aluminum replacements.
To summarize, I took the best parts from two boxes and made one good box. The west coast is easier on metal while the east is better for plastic.
Removing the box is harder than rebuilding it. Carefully drill out the rivets and go to town. If you have any specific questions post them and I’ll do my best to answer. Here are a few pics for reference.
Great photo. I noticed that it looks as though you have sound mat (self adhesive?) and some sort of black mat behind the heater box. Can you tell me what that is. My oem firewall insulation came out in pieces, so I'll have to patch a replacement of some sort back there before I put the box in. Thanks.
Great photo. I noticed that it looks as though you have sound mat (self adhesive?) and some sort of black mat behind the heater box. Can you tell me what that is. My oem firewall insulation came out in pieces, so I'll have to patch a replacement of some sort back there before I put the box in. Thanks.
I used xmat from Eastwood. The firewall insulation is from bronco graveyard although I think I have see it elsewhere. It required trimming.
I pulled my heater unit and right away I could see that the seal kit I purchased was pretty much useless. The problem I had was that the PO, when he replaced the heater core, he must have glued the foam top and bottom to the core and the glue bonded the core to the housing. It was frozen in place and I couldn't budge it. Once I grinded off the oem rivets and removed the metal back plate, I worked on loosening the core for a couple of hours, gently trying to separate the core from the housing with a putty knife. As I rocked the core back and forth while trying to pull it free, the housing cracked. That was a costly ouch.
Here is what a dug out of the side vent.
Here is the inside of the housing.
Here are the two heartbreaks (cracks) I had.
The odd thing about the core is that even with that hole, I can plug one hose attachment and blow through the other, and don't loose pressure. I'll try to soldier it and test the pressure under water. I have a replacement but it's aluminum, and I'd rather stay with the copper brass. Advice?
I would suggest a new box. You can epoxy that but if it can be replaced that’s the better option. The new box might come with a copper core. I’d stay with that if you can. If the core you have is holding pressure you might have just punctured the cooling which isn’t that big of a deal. Just be sure it’s holding pressure if you reuse it.
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