1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

$500 to anyone who solves my issues(s)

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Old 11-05-2003, 10:32 AM
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Smile $500 to anyone who solves my issues(s)

OK. I’ve posted here several times over the last year to year and a half. Although I’ve resolved most all of my issues with my 1987 Ford Ranger, 2.3L/auto, there are still remaining issues that are seemingly unresolvable.

The most annoying, as well as unresolvable issue is that I get a weird stuttering, lack of power, INTERMITTENTLY at speeds above 65 MPH up to 80-85 MPH. As previously stated I’ve replaced each an every component on this truck, bar none. That means every solenoid, relay, sensor, filter, etc., sometimes 2 and 3 times (just in case I might have gotten a bad one), including ECU’s, O2 sensors, new wheels, tires, driveshaft balance, wheel bearings, shocks, torque converter, oil pump, as well as every conceivable engine part.

I most recently traveled NJ to VA then CA (3500 miles) and having had done this many times over the last 2 years (40k miles worth), I know this truck like my own body parts.

I have a super mechanic in NJ who seemed to smooth out the problems, but not 100%.
I found another on in NJ that was even better, but issues still exist at high speeds.

Now in California (San Jose), I went to a place called Mustang Ranch on El Camino in Santa Clara, spoke to their top notch dude, and he pretty much told me I’ve done everything they would have done.

Bottom line is that I’ve got $3-4k invested in this truck, I really like it and would consider putting another $2-3k if I could be assured the problems would go away and stay away.

I know I can buy a good used Ranger for $4-8k, but it’s not the point, as I feel I’m at the point of no return. $2-3k is less than $4-8k, as who would offset any of my expense outlaid so far? None I think. So, what a little more money?

So with that said any takers? $500 for anyone who solves my problems, plus the cost of the parts, time, etc……..somewhat like a commission, finders fee, over and above the normal cost of doing business.

Bob F.
 
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Old 11-05-2003, 10:39 AM
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Wow. Bob that does indeed sound VERY frustrating !!

But, technically, I do have a fix. You can mail the check to me at your convenience (as long as it is by 5:PM today )

You said: "The most annoying, as well as unresolvable issue is that I get a weird stuttering, lack of power, INTERMITTENTLY at speeds above 65 MPH up to 80-85 MPH."

and I say, do not drive over 64MPH. Problem solved
 
  #3  
Old 11-05-2003, 10:52 AM
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Duh

Duh, I'll need your address to mail you your money.

All humor aside, I'd say OK, but driving through Iowa, Wyoming and Nevada where the speed limit is 75MPH, it's not unlikely to go 80-85MPH, so 64MPH is not an option.

Nice try.
 
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Old 11-05-2003, 10:59 AM
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Dang. I figured it was worth a shot anyway .

I do have a hunch, Bob.

A bad ground on/around the computer.

Dang, you have changed all the related parts!! It's got to be something as yet "untouched". And that only leaves (in my tiny mind) the electrical connections.
 
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Old 11-05-2003, 11:07 AM
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It woutld be nice to get your $500.00, but I not sure this is your problem.If you have not already have your tork converter check.Some of Fords auto trans. have what is called converter shudder,{Most where on Crown Vics}but you never know.JMO
 
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Old 11-05-2003, 11:37 AM
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O.K., I'll bite. Can we get an itemized list of what's been changed. I think we can eliminate tires and shocks and such if it's intermittant? Is it a bucking kind of problem which would indicate an ignition problem, or is it a slow down,hit the pedal but nothing there type of thing which would indicate a fuel problem? I take it that there are no codes setting? How old is the ignition switch? Maybe a dirty injector. Does it have ABS? Maybe a bad speed sensor. See where I'm going? There are a lot of great minds here ( okay, people that have had similar problems) I'm sure someone here will have your answer. It just may take a little while.
 
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Old 11-05-2003, 12:49 PM
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Heres two cents .......How about buying a new motor . With all the plugs wires switches on it . Crate motor from FORD .

I fixed my tranny problems that way after having new torq converter replaced twice and all fluids replaced and a 6 pac of solnoids replaced .......Dang I paid and I put it all in my self . This did not include the T-CM. {brain Part of Tranny}

Trips from Michigan to Florida yea I know my truck to well ...its almost woman like ........it eats up my green backs .

Okay send the check payable to my wife lol .

Have a good one guys .
 
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Old 11-05-2003, 12:49 PM
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Heres two cents .......How about buying a new motor . With all the plugs wires switches on it . Crate motor from FORD .

I fixed my tranny problems that way after having new torq converter replaced twice and all fluids replaced and a 6 pac of solnoids replaced .......Dang I paid and I put it all in my self . This did not include the T-CM. {brain Part of Tranny}

Trips from Michigan to Florida yea I know my truck to well ...its almost woman like ........it eats up my green backs .

Okay send the check payable to my wife lol .

Have a good one guys .
 
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Old 11-05-2003, 02:19 PM
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Intermittent: sounds like plugged cats. The insides get sloppy and start moving around and plugging and unplugging, etc. Get your exhaust backpressure checked.
 
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Old 11-05-2003, 02:30 PM
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maybe dumn answer but

i had a ranger once before alittle newer but anyway,
i had a 5 speed stick, sometimes and not always when shifting up a gear and give gas would feel like i lost a cylinder.
sometimes at higher speeds it had an occational miss or rather
lack of power.
it was the emission comp and it had an upgrade
also check your cat converter.
prbl been there done that, my 2ct
 
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Old 11-05-2003, 03:11 PM
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To view all previous posts on this forum regarding my issues, do a search on USER BobFlowers. There the extensive list will be displayed as to ALL of the things I have done so far.
Yes, new Torque Converter, 3 ECU's, breakoutbox on front seat for week to trace anything/everything, all grounds checked and verified, tried to buy a NEW crate motor, doesn't exist, only Jasper REBUILT, new injectors, etc., etc., etc., no ABS, no speed sensors.
 
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Old 11-05-2003, 03:18 PM
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Originally posted by BobFlowers
To view all previous posts on this forum regarding my issues, do a search on USER BobFlowers.
I did.

I must say; you are one determined individual. My hat is waaay off to you, Sir.

. . that is exactly what prompted me to think of the common denominator; "electrical connections". I'll admit to taking a flying leap of a guess on finding them bad on or near the computer. It was simply the second common denominator in my mental list of "what the %#$*& is left to cause this !?!??!"
 
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Old 11-05-2003, 03:23 PM
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And cats? Haven't seen you say you've checked that yet. Unless it's spelled wrong you haven't said you changed them.
 
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Old 11-05-2003, 03:44 PM
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Yes, the Cat Converter was replaced, along with a new exhaust system.

OK, today was a 'Good' day, sort of. Considering I just got done driving 3500 miles a few weeks ago, and nothing seemed to improve, today, it got interesting (the 'intermittent' part).

As on maybe 3 or 4 occasions previously over the last few years, today, all seemed to clear up, very close to perfect. No issues at 75MPH, throttle response was correct, as were shift points, etc. Indicators that were odd were after 1st starting up truck today, (it's cold, in the 50's), my 'normal' fast idle kicked in, as normal, and within a minute or so, came back down to normal rpm, as it's supposed to do. As I put gearshift lever into reverse and begin to back out of driveway, the act of moving the lever between the gears increases the RPM considerably, always, and today it just hit me, could this be the 'indicator', as it doesn't seem, 'normal'.

So I go about 35 miles, truck is running like CRAP at 70-75, pull off highway to destination, come back out 10 minutes later, start up truck, and after an instant start (it always starts in a millisecond) it almost dies, like a vacuum leak or loss of fuel and or electric, only for a split second and then it comes right back to normal idle, etc. This has happened on occasion, and I've always dismissed it. Could it also be an indication of possibly something with the vacuum diaphram on the transmission? I did a vacuum test before leaving NJ a few weeks ago, and it passed OK, no leaks.
In any event, as I got back on the highway to head home, the truck shifted properly, had spunk, acted normal, and I went past 75 to 80 and 85, smooth as silk, like it is supposed to be.
Mind you this is probably the 4th time it has ever been 'normal', but the only reason I mentopn it is because of the incidents that led up to it, as described above.
And yes, I replaced the IAC last year, recently in the last month or so verified it's operation and cleaned it, just to be sure.
 
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Old 11-05-2003, 04:03 PM
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Okay, I went and did some reading (on you) and there are still a few thing that I didn't see addressed. I might have missed something though. When you plug the radar in, where exactly do you plug it in? (power souce) Have motor mounts been changed? Alternator? I have to agree with connectors, where the engine harness plugs into the body harness. Backside of fuse panel and the ignition switch. How about the range selector switch on the trans. Don't know if you changed that one yet but they do go bad.
 


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