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EGT Sensor Failures - Get Going Fast - Dummy Sensor
All,
I was doing some reading on EGT sensor failures again and came across the following post: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14545243
that had some resistance values for the sensors. It got me thinking (that is a dangerous proposition at times ).
I didn't toss out the last sensor I replaced so I decided to experiment some with it. The sensor did not fail completely, but showed a P242D code. I had the high pressure fuel pump replaced and the dealer mentioned this and another issue (DEF heater out). I had a sensor so I had them skip it.
I believe the codes were cleared at the dealer - but because there were a couple faults the components showing the faults still threw codes (DEF heater + EGT bank1, sens3). That is where the P242D came from - that is the code in the system that pertains to the sensor.
I did not clear codes since I put the new sensor in, until today. I documented all the codes, then cleared.
On to the project.
330 ohm resistor on the old sensor wire:
Result?
168-175deg reading on EGT3 (bottom left number):
I checked the results with a couple of on/off cycles to see if the computer would throw any codes on shut-down/restart. Nada.
Success!
I sealed everything up with heat shrink and tossed it in the truck so its ready to go:
Last comments:
Of course this isn't a permanent fix. The idea is it is a "pop it in the connector and go" emergency fix to get off the road. It sure beats trying to wrench out an old EGT sensor on the side of the highway. A couple minutes to get to the old sensor connector and pull it apart, pop this in place, clear the codes, and off ya go.
The exhaust system gets HOT - I wouldn't want this rubbing up against the exhaust pipe so having a way to secure it back away from the pipe, in the case of my test here it was EGT3 so I could zip tie it to the frame rail, for example.
Hope this helps someone out there.
On a bit different topic - I tried to check the resistance of the old sensor. I didn't think it had completely failed, but I got no resistance out of it (open circuit). I even put it under flame for a few seconds to try and heat it up - nada. Deader than a door nail. That makes me wonder if it failed completely when I removed it? If it had gone open while still in - why was the truck not shutting down?
I was doing some reading on EGT sensor failures again and came across the following post: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14545243
that had some resistance values for the sensors. It got me thinking (that is a dangerous proposition at times ).
I didn't toss out the last sensor I replaced so I decided to experiment some with it. The sensor did not fail completely, but showed a P242D code. I had the high pressure fuel pump replaced and the dealer mentioned this and another issue (DEF heater out). I had a sensor so I had them skip it.
I believe the codes were cleared at the dealer - but because there were a couple faults the components showing the faults still threw codes (DEF heater + EGT bank1, sens3). That is where the P242D came from - that is the code in the system that pertains to the sensor.
I did not clear codes since I put the new sensor in, until today. I documented all the codes, then cleared.
On to the project.
330 ohm resistor on the old sensor wire:
Result?
168-175deg reading on EGT3 (bottom left number):
I checked the results with a couple of on/off cycles to see if the computer would throw any codes on shut-down/restart. Nada.
Success!
I sealed everything up with heat shrink and tossed it in the truck so its ready to go:
Last comments:
Of course this isn't a permanent fix. The idea is it is a "pop it in the connector and go" emergency fix to get off the road. It sure beats trying to wrench out an old EGT sensor on the side of the highway. A couple minutes to get to the old sensor connector and pull it apart, pop this in place, clear the codes, and off ya go.
The exhaust system gets HOT - I wouldn't want this rubbing up against the exhaust pipe so having a way to secure it back away from the pipe, in the case of my test here it was EGT3 so I could zip tie it to the frame rail, for example.
Hope this helps someone out there.
On a bit different topic - I tried to check the resistance of the old sensor. I didn't think it had completely failed, but I got no resistance out of it (open circuit). I even put it under flame for a few seconds to try and heat it up - nada. Deader than a door nail. That makes me wonder if it failed completely when I removed it? If it had gone open while still in - why was the truck not shutting down?
great idea
i have a new egt temp in a box and a band clamp. Theory is the connection of the new will trick the computer the same way your resistor does..the band clamp is to attach to the outside of the pipe so that the computer gets some readings.
Ford did a reprogramming several years ago to prevent a shut down. Now it just throws the codes.
Interesting. I suppose another "data point" is the ScanGauge display - I did not find it reading odd ranges, or 0. Though, I did not specifically pay attention to it.
I will try unplugging the sensor again and cycle on/off a few times and see what codes/messages it throws when I get a chance.
i have a new egt temp in a box and a band clamp. Theory is the connection of the new will trick the computer the same way your resistor does..the band clamp is to attach to the outside of the pipe so that the computer gets some readings.
That is an idea.
In all honesty, I had the new sensor in the truck supposedly "ready to go" in case things went going down the road. However, after replacing it in the driveway several weeks back I learned how much of a PITA it was to do them. So I am thankful that one was done in the driveway and I got some hands-on experience with doing it. The major lesson I learned is, unless the sensors are already loose and have anti-seize paste on the threads for even easier extraction, it would not be a road-side repair. Even if the truck was parked on an off-ramp it wouldn't be a very friendly "road-side repair".
So I suppose had that happened - a sensor fail going down the road - with the spare I had I probably would have come to the same conclusion - just plug it in and zip tie it up. But that would have been after fighting it for a few hours. Knowing this ahead of time I could have just plugged in, tied up, cleared codes, and driven off on my way.
And if an active regeneration did start, it should trip a fault condition due to one of the EGT sensors being out of range on temp compared to the others. I can't remember the tolerance and couldn't quickly find it in the OBD sys op documentation. As you said, the idea is to get off the side of the highway if for some reason the truck is disabled (one failed sensor of the four should no longer cause shutdown with IDS v.99.05 or greater (which includes SR 15S09, ER 14E03, CSP 16B24)), not drive 500 miles and plug the DPF.
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).
. Knowing this ahead of time I could have just plugged in, tied up, cleared codes, and driven off on my way.
