New 5th-wheel trailer to me. 2006 Keystone Sydney Outback M-28 FRLS.
Sparing the long story, I'll get to the point.

I tried to extend the slide-out out and when pushing the switch, a clicking sound happens and slide-out does not move.
I had my wife push the button while I was under the slide-out. The all-thread bolt that extends the slide-out does not rotate.
I opened the access location to the motor and watched the motor while my wife pushed the button.


From the motor, I removed the cotter-pin and end-bolt/cap. I removed the screw. I attempted to wiggle the motor away from where it's mounted, but, I didn't want to break something. I stopped so I could get more information before I continue disassembly.

I have one deep-cycle battery (Interstate 27DC Marine/RV) hooked up. I tried operating the slide-out with the shore power cord hooked up to an extension cord to the garage power outlet, about 50'from the trailer. And I tried having the truck hooked up through the 7-pin idling, with shore power disconnected. Both ways still same result.

Do I need another battery to help with amperage draw?
Is it just the motor part in the video that needs to be replaced? Or, is it looking like I will have to replace the mechanism, shaft and all?

Any thoughts or advice is appreciated.

Thanks,

Rich

 

I have the same motor on mine. It will usually make that sound when it's fully retracted and can move no more. First, test the battery with a load tester. If good, I'd try having one push the extend button and the other gently try pushing the slide out from the inside. If it comes out, lube it all real good including the seals.

 

Is there a limit switch in the system that has failed?

 

DC motor. If you can identify the wires, take them and reverse the power and see if that corrects the issue.

May have to use some jumper wires and take your battery near the motor so you can just touch the jumper wires to the pole each direction.

 

I had load tested the battery prior to picking up the Keystone last week. Battery load test was good.
Since this 12v battery is out of the Terry Resort, after work today, I bought 2-6v batteries for the Keystone.
I don't know about the limit switch, but, maybe someone else can confirm.
I'll id wires, use jumper wires with batteries close to the motor, test voltages and connections over this weekend.
Thanks for the advice. I'll followup with findings.

 

Watching the video it’s obvious that the drive motor is turning, but it sounds like it’s at its travel limit and the clutch mechanism is skipping, like designed. Or that clutch is worn out and not engaging enough to drive the shaft that turns the gears on the slide. What happens when you press the rocker switch the other way (retract)? Could it be that the rocker switch is wired or labeled backwards?

 

The motor clearly is unable to turn. It doesn’t sound like the clutch is slipping at the end of its limit. The shaft isn’t turning.
Sounds more like a gear box issue or something else not allowing the slide to move.


Have you tried to open the slide manually using the hand crank?

Also, make sure there is no debris in front of the slide wheels preventing them from rolling. A lot of construction debris is left in the RV’s these days.

Bob

 

If the motor is turnig, the hand crank will not help you either. Normally the clicking is because the gear set off the motor has failed. An easy repair and you can get the gear set off Amazon. I am basing my diagnosis on the most common issue when the motor turns and the slide will not extend. it is a really common issue and a DIY repair.

Steve

 

I checked wires for fraying, kinks, connections were not loose, crimps and plug terminations were okay.

I turned the worm-drive bolt cap with a ratchet and 5/8" socket several turns.



I saw the slide had extended out about few inches. I had my wife bump the slide-out control switch both ways while I tested voltage.

I was able to ID hot wires for extend (black to red) and retract (white to black). Voltage showed 12.8v both directions, but I only got a picture of the voltage measurement on extend.




The bottom section of the slide-out would extend out and the top section would stay in place, so as my wife push the extend button, I pushed the top section of the slide-out out until the whole slide-out moved on it's own.

Was able to get the slide-out extended all the way. It looks dirty and dry under the slide-out. I'll clean off and lube all the mechanical parts and operate the control switch more to see if it will work on it's own. If it turns out that this motor continues to work, I'll use it. I'll look into purchasing another motor, since Steve says it's a common problem. If anything, I'll have an extra when/if it is time to replace.

Thanks to you all for your input.

Rich

 

Good job getting it out! Here are a few random thoughts as slide-outs, in my experience, are the most problematic of the RV systems given the grief they can cause if you need to get moving and can't get them in or want to use the camper and can't get them out.

First off, slide should operate smoothly, they should not require "help" and you should not hear the clutch clicking on the extension. if you do something is wrong. Do not attempt to operate a slide for prolonged period of time with audible clicking. It will do damage to the gearbox. In my experience, lubricating the tracks seldom proves helpful. And anytime slide is binding, stop. Those big gears do have teeth that will break off when too much pressure is applied.

The two most common issues with the model shown in this post are 1. low or no power or 2. a bad gearbox which normally has been damaged by running in the slide and holding the switch (although recently I worked on one where the switch stuck and the owner did not notice so the motor kept running.

If you have no power Do you have power to the switch? If not is the switch for the electric awning next to it. If so you can use the power feed off that switch which normally has a different supply. You can also simply uncouple the wires at the motor and jump the motor directly. If you hook it up wrong the slide attempts to go the wrong direction, just reverse the leads. If operating the slide using the nut on the end of the motor, I use an electric drill (however, using too small a cordless can burn the drill motor out. (Yes, it really can!) If you intend to rachet it out, plan on a very long day.

If I were going to carry spare parts, I would carry a set of gears for the grear box. You may not be able to find them on the manufacturer's website as they often want to sell motor and all, but I bet you can find them on Amazon. Gearboxes are not all the same so be sure to note the model number on the box.

The model pictured is probablly the easiest slide system to diagnose and repair. Removing the one bolt and disconnecting the two wires at the motor allows you to pull the motor right out.

Good luck!

Steve

 

I spent some time today cleaning off the dirt, dust, and dried gunk around the slide mechanical parts and rubber seals. Next, I'll get some RV spray lube, spray everything down and operate the slide-out to test if the motor continues to work or stalls.
I'll look into the gears to keep in the trailer
Thank you for the great extra information, Steve. I'll be able to reference this info in the future.

Rich

 

Be sure to lubricate/freshen the slide seals. This process will keep them pliable and flexible.

I used to use a foaming slide seal product, but now I use a spray from 3-in-1.

 

Appreciate your input, Sous. I went by a RV parts store yesterday and they carry Thetford products. I picked up a can of Slide-Out Lube and a can of Rubber Seal Conditioner. I'll make sure I get the seals.
Thank you

 

Hey Sous, thanks for the tip. I see 3 in 1 makes a separate product for window tracks, do you use that one as well?

Thanks!

 

No problem at all. Seal conditioner was what I was trying to name, but couldn't find it in my vocabulary. You may need to do the seals a couple of times if they are really dried out and if they are cracked, they should be replaced in my opinion.

It sounds like the previous owner closed the slide up a while back and it sat like that until the seal just about glued itself to the camper. The Thetford product will work fine.

We do have the window track lubricant as well. Although, we only have one window on vertical tracks, so it sits idle a lot.

I use the seal conditioner on a rag to wipe the seals of the windows on cranks that push outward too.

There are quite a few products that will work, but I have always been a fan of 3 in 1 for other applications.