I will get the jic lines when the time comes then! As well as the riff raff braided fuel lines! By Gasoila do you mean gas? I'm I to dense??😅

Edit** just looked it up, it's a type of pipe thread sealer?
I was seriously confused because I had no idea why I would need gas

As always, my young inexperienced side is showing!

 

Without looking at the manual or looking up the parameters, your ZF6 must be in neutral, the parking brake set and the parking brake light un the cluster must be on.

The EBPV issue is probably with the actuator or connector.

 

Nope. I see your inquisitive and resourceful side. You didn’t understand, desired knowledge, seeked it out, answered your own question, and now have another bit of info stored in your brain.

 

That's the issue then. My parking brake light has never worked. At first I thought it was the little sensor doohickey on the pedal butt I've come to think something else is wrong with the wiring. When I turn the key on and all the lights come on for a couple seconds, the light for the brake does not. I replaced all my bulbs with LEDs last year. Maybe I just missed that one?

My backup camera quit working yesterday! I verified that the camera is on and that both ends are plugged in for the video cable. All good. I've been putting off getting my atato head unit anyway. I want to upgrade from the license plate frame camera, to the tailgate handle camera. Israel has I'm tired of my cheap radio messing up.

As always, and as the title suggests, I'm always doing something 😂

 

Just to be clear, Gasoila only on the PIPE threads for the adapter going into the heads. No sealant of any kind on AN/JIC connections. Having said that, flare gaskets do exist for less than perfect interfaces at AN/JIC connections.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3202

Also, take it easy screwing the adapters into the head. Just enough torque for the threads to seal is good enough. People have cracked heads that way before.

 

Today I got under the truck and cleaned the inside of the bed walls. Of course it was mud and dirt and whatnot. I had an issue in the past of the bed not wanting to drain. So I took my hose and sprayed the leaves and whatnot out of the rails. This wasn't the first time I've done that so there wasn't actually anything in there except some dirt. While I was under there I felt like getting wet for some reason..... Not really.......

But I went ahead and did some rust prevention! One day, if I ever have my bed off, I will coat the frame after wire Wheeling. That would be some real rust prevention!

I also mounted my underhood LED light switch.

I also pulled my back bumper off and sanded the paint down and put a can of paint back on, then sanded everything smooth with my dad. It needs another can of paint and a couple cans of clear coat. But it is a weekend by weekend project. Unfortunately I do not have enough time to leave the bumper off long enough to finish it in one go. This was the second time having the back bumper off and, it will come off again for a third time next weekend hopefully. The first weekend it was nice and sunny. Then after one can of paint magically it started raining. Some of you may know the song, "have you eveeeeer seen the rain.....coming down, on a sunny day?!"

​​​​​​Well, I have!

Anyway that ruined the paint job. That's what I was doing this weekend. Trying to repair it. But I was busy yesterday resealing my steering gear, and half of today laying (cough cough) I mean doing very much so needed stuff.

I used a paint removing wheel to try to start over completely. It didn't work as good as I thought it would. In hindsight I should have put some paint remover on it and took the whole bumper to bare metal. But I didn't.....

Instead I roughed up what I had and put another can of paint on which of course, looks terrible. So I pulled out the orbital sander and my dad and I took turns sanding everything smooth down to the deepest pits with 80 and 120 grit sandpaper. I then ran out of time in the day. We'll have to finish it next week! I've got to say, this bumper has been hit a couple times before I had the truck and it is a pain to line up. I got all four bolts in place which of course are on tabs and easy to line up, and got all the nuts started and almost snug and the right side of the bumper is hanging down a good inch or two lower than the left side. And it would not budge. Even with the nuts almost off it would only go up maybe a half inch by hand. That's where it wanted to sit. So I put my Jack under it and jacked it up and tightened it down. It is still about a half inch lower than the left side. Just enough to drive me nuts......

Anyway, I hope everybody had a good weekend and I just thought I'd share what I did today!

 

Long before there was a weld-in flange, I was replacing factory flanges and adding TA31 sealant ‘for good measure’. This was a typical oil pan replacement for me - new (spectra) oil pan, professionally applied bedliner, new Motorcraft dipstick flange and copious application of TA31. This does well enough I still question the expense of a weld-in flange. If I were to repair one in the truck, I would use the Riffraff solution

You mentioned wire wheeling to prep frame, etc for paint. Coming from an industrial painting background, I have to say this is generally a bad idea and there are much more effective methods. I strongly recommend degreasing caked on grime with stiff brush and diesel, then p-wash with rotating zero degree tip (HOT water is best if you have that option), using degreaser as needed to make 100% sure there are no petroleum contamination present. The goal is no surface contaminates and nothing ‘loose’ that will fall off with your paint on it. Use Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer and a 1” chip brush to paint inside all of the holes and hard to reach spots first, then use a 1/2” nap cigar roller to cover everything else. (2) coats of primer is best - follow recoat directions for proper cure time. Follow this with same application technique using Rustoleum High Performance Enamel. These products are $26/gal at home cheapo and applied correctly will outperform any of the over-priced, over-marketed products like poor15.

 

The switch for reverse lights is on top of transmission. Mine has a broken clip and keeps coming unplugged, rendering reverse lights inoperable. It’s worth checking this to see if that is your problem if your fuses, etc are all good.

 

The Riffraff HPO and fuel lines are an excellent upgrade. Skip the HPx and FRx.

 

I will still check it out just for completion sake but, my back up camera is still getting power from the reverse lights and powering on. I think the cheap video cable that came with it crapped out. Or the radio I got for 100 bucks is crapping out.

 

Will do! Nothing is leaking yet but, I know what I'll.get when the time comes!

 

I only mentioned wire Wheeling get some of the big stuff off but, I like your method better. Man that frame sure looks pretty

I don't think I'm going to strip the whole truck down just to coat the frame anytime soon but it would be a fun project! Especially since it's my only Wheels! Its hard to take that much time off as much as I'd like to. I also have no way of remove the cab, bed, or engine from the truck. I'm quite limited on resources for stuff like that!
I would love to do this one day! Offer keep in mind what you said about the riff Raff dipstick repair kit!
Thanks!

 

You don’t have to pull cab. But bed isn’t so bad.

 

You don't have to pull the cab to paint the frame? How would you paint the top rail of the frame? Joel and I pulled the bed off with a 2 ton chain hoist. Same with the cab. But he had a nice A frame to park under.

 

Compromises will be made! But you can get most of it if you try.

I use the engine hoist or my tractor to pull beds. But, (4) people can do it.