When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Accelerator pedal (i think) linkage…how do I remove it from carb.
i am replacing mounting gasket and this is the only part still connected. I can lift off the whole carb as is, but would rather be able to remove carb from engine bay.
That is the kickdown rod to the transmission. There is an E-clip on the carb side, you can see it in the 2nd pic. Just pop it off with a small screwdriver and the rod will slide right off.
Thanks. I actually figured it out but now have found what looks to be some sort of makeshift homemade riser?
i’m wondering if I should ditch it and use one that is new…granted without the cast iron weld? Job? Pic below. I do have a couple new risers and 2 new gaskets I can use.
the mounting gasket between intake and riser was completely blown and i scraped it off intake (very carefully) with a razor blade.
That looks to be an old OEM EGR (?) plate of some sort. Normally a vacuum line would be attached to the port sticking out the back. They did put some sort of none OEM shut off valve in it. You probably need to reuse it to keep the throttle linkage and trans kick down at the proper angle.
Well what ever it is (actually called or it actual purpose) he is not using it anymore for it intended use, but I bet he needs it as a riser for the carb. Yes he should be able to get a new one from Jegs, Summit racing, Speedway ect...
Thanks all. I will leave it on for now for linkages etc. Seems like that is something I can replace down the line potentially.
Also just piecing some things together….
….could this truck have been modified for performance or maybe even street racing among trucks? (If that is a thing?)
Mechanic’s ear said it sounded like it could have a non stock cam, has dual exhaust, an EGR which seems to only act as a riser (no vacuum connections on it) either for linkages or in my weird theory here haha, as a performance riser. It certainly has a lot of power and really hums from time to time when I get her cruising and hit accelerator just right. Would also potentially explain why the truck looks so pretty.
Only iffy part of my already very iffy theory is after some research on the current carb it is a 1969 Autolite…maybe at one time it had a more performance based carb? Also why would it still have a 360 instead of a 390.
I believe I still do have a PCV, shook it around and sounds new if I'm thinking of correct part. Has a vacuum connector to rear driver side of carb.
Picture coming...
don't mind that duct tape...wasn't me lol, however i did retape it as the old tape was worn...until i get to it.
The choke hot air tube however is broken, just dangles into where it used to connect to exhaust manifold I am guessing based on how it is bent. And the tightening nut to the choke connector itself is damaged so I will at some point need to replace that. The manifold still has a nipple (hard to get to with A/C there) but seems to be in good shape. If I use the current heat protected line from exhaust to choke with a new nut (insert joke here), will that work? Will a rubber fuel or vacuum line connect to that exhaust manifold nipple or will that be too hot and melt the line?
best pic i got before i took it off…idk how that nut was holding
Does your pass exh manifold have an opening in the top of it that would allow that copper/brass tube to be inserted?
Your intake is an older variety as the 70's used a different style hot air tube for the choke. (flanged and located in the exhaust crossover in the intake manifold)
In the 60's they used tubes inserted into the exh. manifolds like what you show.
Also I think the wrong fitting is on the carb, not the tube. You may only need to find the correct fitting for the carb side and reuse the tube as it is.
Also you can purchase a std 2bbl phenolic or aluminum 1" carb spacer to replace the one you have, although I am not sure the one you have is needing replaced. You can check it for flatness with a straight edge.
.You would need a spacer with a provision for the pcv valve which your truck does have and you did correctly picture. Or you can drill and tap the spacer and add a fitting yourself for the PCV if your new aftermarket one does not have that provision.
Your intake is an older variety as the 70's used a different style hot air tube for the choke. (flanged and located in the exhaust crossover in the intake manifold)
The truck did come with a 1969 autolite carb and seems to require this kind of spacer to manifold gasket, which seems to be the stock 67-72 part? Can anyone confirm? the intake manifold has that extended square up top which aligns with this gasket and that pcv spacer i have.
Originally Posted by somethingclever
Also you can purchase a std 2bbl phenolic or aluminum 1" carb spacer to replace the one you have, although I am not sure the one you have is needing replaced. You can check it for flatness with a straight edge.
.You would need a spacer with a provision for the pcv valve which your truck does have and you did correctly picture. Or you can drill and tap the spacer and add a fitting yourself for the PCV if your new aftermarket one does not have that provision.
This is the modified spacer (former PCV hookup?) currently on the truck. Guess PO cut the tubing and glued on a phenolic spacer to the top:
If I do end up replacing this down the line (this one does work just fine) will I need to mod the one from the ebay link like they did or would I be able to use one without that extended top part? Would I be able to use something like this? https://www.ebay.com/p/1750354941
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
