replacement fuel pumps?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Kentucky
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2019
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Thanks for the replies guys....I did see that thread on thev38 gallon tank mod. I may try to stick with the Bronco 33 gallon tank and pump, just to keep it easy. Does anyone know if the internal Bronco pump is the only pump needed or would I have to install an inline external pump as well?
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 380
Likes: 83
There's a few things to be aware of here. 87-89 trucks used low pressure in-tank pumps, a single high pressure pump mounted on the frame rail, and a selector valve mounted on the frame rail. 90-97 trucks used only high pressure in-tank pumps mounted inside the FDM which basically consisted of the check valves and poppet valves necessary to allow switching between the front and rear tank.
The #1 killer of fuel pumps of any brand, in my experience, is not being driven daily. E10 fuel (pretty much any octane unleaded fuel sold at the pump nowadays) has enough ethanol in it that it absorbs a significant amount of water. If left sitting, the ethanol, water, and gasoline separate and stratify with water being the heaviest moves to the bottom of the tank where the pump pickup sits. This causes the pump internals to corrode which is followed by pump failure.
Motorcraft is usually something of a guarantee that you're getting a decent part but even they're not above outsourcing parts to the lowest bidder. Also keep in mind that the "motorcraft" branded part for a 25 year old truck is almost assuredly NOT the same thing as the OE part, rather it's whatever is available 25 years later that Ford feels is "close enough" and of sufficient quality to put their name on. Then there's also the issue of all the counterfeit motorcraft parts in circulation currently. I've used aftermarket pumps in several occasions with good luck - though again, the key with any replacement fuel pump is to start with a clean tank, clean fuel system, new filter, and then start and drive the vehicle regularly.
The #1 killer of fuel pumps of any brand, in my experience, is not being driven daily. E10 fuel (pretty much any octane unleaded fuel sold at the pump nowadays) has enough ethanol in it that it absorbs a significant amount of water. If left sitting, the ethanol, water, and gasoline separate and stratify with water being the heaviest moves to the bottom of the tank where the pump pickup sits. This causes the pump internals to corrode which is followed by pump failure.
Motorcraft is usually something of a guarantee that you're getting a decent part but even they're not above outsourcing parts to the lowest bidder. Also keep in mind that the "motorcraft" branded part for a 25 year old truck is almost assuredly NOT the same thing as the OE part, rather it's whatever is available 25 years later that Ford feels is "close enough" and of sufficient quality to put their name on. Then there's also the issue of all the counterfeit motorcraft parts in circulation currently. I've used aftermarket pumps in several occasions with good luck - though again, the key with any replacement fuel pump is to start with a clean tank, clean fuel system, new filter, and then start and drive the vehicle regularly.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
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From: New York
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 99
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There's a few things to be aware of here. 87-89 trucks used low pressure in-tank pumps, a single high pressure pump mounted on the frame rail, and a selector valve mounted on the frame rail. 90-97 trucks used only high pressure in-tank pumps mounted inside the FDM which basically consisted of the check valves and poppet valves necessary to allow switching between the front and rear tank.
The #1 killer of fuel pumps of any brand, in my experience, is not being driven daily. E10 fuel (pretty much any octane unleaded fuel sold at the pump nowadays) has enough ethanol in it that it absorbs a significant amount of water. If left sitting, the ethanol, water, and gasoline separate and stratify with water being the heaviest moves to the bottom of the tank where the pump pickup sits. This causes the pump internals to corrode which is followed by pump failure.
Motorcraft is usually something of a guarantee that you're getting a decent part but even they're not above outsourcing parts to the lowest bidder. Also keep in mind that the "motorcraft" branded part for a 25 year old truck is almost assuredly NOT the same thing as the OE part, rather it's whatever is available 25 years later that Ford feels is "close enough" and of sufficient quality to put their name on. Then there's also the issue of all the counterfeit motorcraft parts in circulation currently. I've used aftermarket pumps in several occasions with good luck - though again, the key with any replacement fuel pump is to start with a clean tank, clean fuel system, new filter, and then start and drive the vehicle regularly.
The #1 killer of fuel pumps of any brand, in my experience, is not being driven daily. E10 fuel (pretty much any octane unleaded fuel sold at the pump nowadays) has enough ethanol in it that it absorbs a significant amount of water. If left sitting, the ethanol, water, and gasoline separate and stratify with water being the heaviest moves to the bottom of the tank where the pump pickup sits. This causes the pump internals to corrode which is followed by pump failure.
Motorcraft is usually something of a guarantee that you're getting a decent part but even they're not above outsourcing parts to the lowest bidder. Also keep in mind that the "motorcraft" branded part for a 25 year old truck is almost assuredly NOT the same thing as the OE part, rather it's whatever is available 25 years later that Ford feels is "close enough" and of sufficient quality to put their name on. Then there's also the issue of all the counterfeit motorcraft parts in circulation currently. I've used aftermarket pumps in several occasions with good luck - though again, the key with any replacement fuel pump is to start with a clean tank, clean fuel system, new filter, and then start and drive the vehicle regularly.
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 380
Likes: 83
The best way to do the Bronco rear tank swap is to remove the front tank completely and cut/cap the supply and return lines for the front tank. That way you're not relying on the FDM in the front tank to keep those lines isolated.
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 99
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Are you planning to keep the front tank? If so, then no, that won't work. The Bronco pump doesn't have the check and poppet valves necessary to support the dual tank system. Basically if you try to run the front tank in that configuration it'll just pump into the rear tank and not develop enough fuel pressure to run the engine correctly. If you simply leave the front tank turned off and run off the Bronco pump in the rear, that'll work so long as the check and poppet valves in the front tank FDM are still functional and seal closed correctly.
The best way to do the Bronco rear tank swap is to remove the front tank completely and cut/cap the supply and return lines for the front tank. That way you're not relying on the FDM in the front tank to keep those lines isolated.
The best way to do the Bronco rear tank swap is to remove the front tank completely and cut/cap the supply and return lines for the front tank. That way you're not relying on the FDM in the front tank to keep those lines isolated.
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 380
Likes: 83
That should work. Just keep in mind you lose the spare tire carrier with the bronco tank.
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Junior User
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yes, and no worries, using 35" tires that don't fit under there anyway. So no loss....thanks for all the help
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: North Texas
There's a few things to be aware of here. 87-89 trucks used low pressure in-tank pumps, a single high pressure pump mounted on the frame rail, and a selector valve mounted on the frame rail. 90-97 trucks used only high pressure in-tank pumps mounted inside the FDM which basically consisted of the check valves and poppet valves necessary to allow switching between the front and rear tank.
The #1 killer of fuel pumps of any brand, in my experience, is not being driven daily. E10 fuel (pretty much any octane unleaded fuel sold at the pump nowadays) has enough ethanol in it that it absorbs a significant amount of water. If left sitting, the ethanol, water, and gasoline separate and stratify with water being the heaviest moves to the bottom of the tank where the pump pickup sits. This causes the pump internals to corrode which is followed by pump failure.
Motorcraft is usually something of a guarantee that you're getting a decent part but even they're not above outsourcing parts to the lowest bidder. Also keep in mind that the "motorcraft" branded part for a 25 year old truck is almost assuredly NOT the same thing as the OE part, rather it's whatever is available 25 years later that Ford feels is "close enough" and of sufficient quality to put their name on. Then there's also the issue of all the counterfeit motorcraft parts in circulation currently. I've used aftermarket pumps in several occasions with good luck - though again, the key with any replacement fuel pump is to start with a clean tank, clean fuel system, new filter, and then start and drive the vehicle regularly.
The #1 killer of fuel pumps of any brand, in my experience, is not being driven daily. E10 fuel (pretty much any octane unleaded fuel sold at the pump nowadays) has enough ethanol in it that it absorbs a significant amount of water. If left sitting, the ethanol, water, and gasoline separate and stratify with water being the heaviest moves to the bottom of the tank where the pump pickup sits. This causes the pump internals to corrode which is followed by pump failure.
Motorcraft is usually something of a guarantee that you're getting a decent part but even they're not above outsourcing parts to the lowest bidder. Also keep in mind that the "motorcraft" branded part for a 25 year old truck is almost assuredly NOT the same thing as the OE part, rather it's whatever is available 25 years later that Ford feels is "close enough" and of sufficient quality to put their name on. Then there's also the issue of all the counterfeit motorcraft parts in circulation currently. I've used aftermarket pumps in several occasions with good luck - though again, the key with any replacement fuel pump is to start with a clean tank, clean fuel system, new filter, and then start and drive the vehicle regularly.
Big time, I hate Ethanol in the gasoline. I have so many vehicles, I add a bit of stabilizer on all fill ups. I read around 30 days it starts to separate.
I have noticed driving with low fuel often hurts pumps. I have a Carter in a BMW of mine, no issue. Just bought a Delphi from The Zone for my '92, no idea on its lifespan as too new. Lobo has a Delphi too, seems fine about one year later.
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