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Heat shield came with the truck. Funny thing is I didn’t notice the Ford logo for maybe a month or so after I had the truck. When I did notice it, was kind of a wow, how did I not see that before!
It's on the same style truck isn't it? A super duty? Hard to tell. Just curious if it would fit my truck
I really like your underhood heat shield! mine got tore up when my tensioner pulley decided to go 20° off center and tear up a belt. It was slapping and ate a hole in mine. Where did you get that one? Or did it already come on your truck?
Unfortunately I can't use the underhood light as my power source because I have no continuity to the fuse and no power to the underhood factory light.
He's truck is a 2016. That's why the underwood heat deflector is different than these old trucks.
Soldering vs crimping is an old debate. Most experts will agree that crimping is generally better in most automotive connections. You can read about this as much as you want with some Google-fu.
I use uninsulated crimp connectors and quality double wall shrink tubing on everything I do that is exposed to weather. Standard crimp connectors are fine in the cab.
Throughout this forum and the interwebs, there are some opinions, theories and facts in the threads and websites that will allow you to form your own method. I can tell you this, for each lug, connection and splice I performed on my 5th wheel install, not one drop of solder was used.
This is only the main panel, a lot more wiring and electronic installation was completed within the 5th wheel itself.
Soldering vs crimping is an old debate. Most experts will agree that crimping is generally better in most automotive connections. You can read about this as much as you want with some Google-fu.
I use uninsulated crimp connectors and quality double wall shrink tubing on everything I do that is exposed to weather. Standard crimp connectors are fine in the cab.
I agree with this 100%! Well, maybe 99.99%. I don't use standard, insulated connectors at all. Non-insulated with adhesive lined shrink wrap tubing.
I used to think that soldering was better until I did a lot of reading on the subject. I'm now a believer in crimping. Proper crimping, that is! I recently threw away two pair of cheesy, parts store crimpers that I've owned for 25+ years. Junk! Pure junk! One must have the proper crimp tools to get proper crimps.
Soldering vs crimping is an old debate. Most experts will agree that crimping is generally better in most automotive connections. You can read about this as much as you want with some Google-fu.
I use uninsulated crimp connectors and quality double wall shrink tubing on everything I do that is exposed to weather. Standard crimp connectors are fine in the cab.
Originally Posted by Sous
Tristan, regarding the splicing method of your choice, below is a link bolstering the information that SSJ has shared with you/us above.
Throughout this forum and the interwebs, there are some opinions, theories and facts in the threads and websites that will allow you to form your own method. I can tell you this, for each lug, connection and splice I performed on my 5th wheel install, not one drop of solder was used.
This is only the main panel, a lot more wiring and electronic installation was completed within the 5th wheel itself.
Originally Posted by dannyual767
I agree with this 100%! Well, maybe 99.99%. I don't use standard, insulated connectors at all. Non-insulated with adhesive lined shrink wrap tubing.
I used to think that soldering was better until I did a lot of reading on the subject. I'm now a believer in crimping. Proper crimping, that is! I recently threw away two pair of cheesy, parts store crimpers that I've owned for 25+ years. Junk! Pure junk! One must have the proper crimp tools to get proper crimps.
The only crimps I've ever really seen, are the ones with the cheap *** Auto store crimpers, or the expensive as all hell hydraulic crimpers. I've never really known any better. It makes sense that I would be bad for something like electrical on a vehicle because it gets hot. And if you don't solder it right the spot that you didn't get solder on will bend and break. What type of crimpers do y'all use?
Below is a quote from SSJ when he talked about what he uses.
Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
I won’t go as far as to say solder is wrong, but it is done wrong far more commonly than the method I suggest.
It’s almost comical not to be ‘comfortable’ with connecting injector wires the way the factory did. The terminals in all of the pigtails on the truck are 100% crimp. Solder does NOT provide better continuity or perform better in any way, but it does provide more opportunities for failure...
These are the butt connectors I use. Also use the same style ring terminals, etc.
I have a few crimp tools. My favorite looks like this. I’ve had a couple of these and I actually prefer the feel of some off-brand a friend recommended many years ago.
Since we are on the subject, my favorite wire strippers are similar to this. I have a couple automatic strippers and they work ok, but I find this style faster/easier to use. Especially with Romex.
EDIT: I see now the ebay link has expired. @SkySkiJason , would you be so kind as to provide another link to a crimper that resembles your favorite crimper to use?
I got very serious about wiring late last winter (early 2021) when a forum member on LS1tech.com suggested that I look at new, modern ways of wiring my Fox Body Coupe project car. As I went down the rabbit hole, I realized that I didn't have the right tools to do old school wiring much less new school wiring!
All of my crimp tools were purchased this year and here is a picture of them:
The tool at the top is a large gauge wire stripper (battery cables.) I make all of my own. I have a manual and a hydraulic battery lug crimper that are not pictured.
The two crimpers on the left are for "new school" Weather Pack and Metri-Pack connectors.
The blue handle Klein Tools wire stripper came highly recommended. I love it and highly recommend it!
The black handle Klein Tools crimper is for non-insulated terminals only. This crimper has two dies; one crimps 22-14 ga terminals and the other crimps 12-10 ga terminals. Jason pictured the version that does insulated as well as non-insulated terminals. Like Jason, I purchased this tool from Home Depot.
The Klein Tool at the far right is a large gauge cable cutter. It works good for all cables up to about 1 awg. I recently tried to cut some 2/0 cable and it couldn't do it.
The red handle wire cutter right beside it is a very nice, German made Knipex.
I got very serious about wiring late last winter (early 2021) when a forum member on LS1tech.com suggested that I look at new, modern ways of wiring my Fox Body Coupe project car. As I went down the rabbit hole, I realized that I didn't have the right tools to do old school wiring much less new school wiring!
All of my crimp tools were purchased this year and here is a picture of them:
The tool at the top is a large gauge wire stripper (battery cables.) I make all of my own. I have a manual and a hydraulic battery lug crimper that are not pictured.
The two crimpers on the left are for "new school" Weather Pack and Metri-Pack connectors.
The blue handle Klein Tools wire stripper came highly recommended. I love it and highly recommend it!
The black handle Klein Tools crimper is for non-insulated terminals only. This crimper has two dies; one crimps 22-14 ga terminals and the other crimps 12-10 ga terminals. Jason pictured the version that does insulated as well as non-insulated terminals. Like Jason, I purchased this tool from Home Depot.
The Klein Tool at the far right is a large gauge cable cutter. It works good for all cables up to about 1 awg. I recently tried to cut some 2/0 cable and it couldn't do it.
The red handle wire cutter right beside it is a very nice, German made Knipex.
I got very serious about wiring late last winter (early 2021) when a forum member on LS1tech.com suggested that I look at new, modern ways of wiring my Fox Body Coupe project car. As I went down the rabbit hole, I realized that I didn't have the right tools to do old school wiring much less new school wiring!
All of my crimp tools were purchased this year and here is a picture of them:
The tool at the top is a large gauge wire stripper (battery cables.) I make all of my own. I have a manual and a hydraulic battery lug crimper that are not pictured.
The two crimpers on the left are for "new school" Weather Pack and Metri-Pack connectors.
The blue handle Klein Tools wire stripper came highly recommended. I love it and highly recommend it!
The black handle Klein Tools crimper is for non-insulated terminals only. This crimper has two dies; one crimps 22-14 ga terminals and the other crimps 12-10 ga terminals. Jason pictured the version that does insulated as well as non-insulated terminals. Like Jason, I purchased this tool from Home Depot.
The Klein Tool at the far right is a large gauge cable cutter. It works good for all cables up to about 1 awg. I recently tried to cut some 2/0 cable and it couldn't do it.
The red handle wire cutter right beside it is a very nice, German made Knipex.
Great post with very detailed descriptions!
Klein tools are expensive, but sometimes you get what you pay for. I have some Klein tools that bought back in the early 1990's when I first got into working in the electronics field professionally. I used them during my 5th wheel solar installation project just a couple of years ago and they are still top notch.
You can see there are (2) crimp types on this tool. One is for insulated connectors and one is for non-insulated.
That is the same crimp tool we have at work and everybody there swears by it.
I will order some of the non-insulated crimps (I have loads of heat shrink) and get me a pair of these crimpers. The main reason to be completely honest with you that I've never liked using crimps is because they look ugly and "trashy" compared to a pretty soldered and heat shrunk connection. Then again all I have seen, are the ugly auto parts store crap. But that being said, the crimp connectors in your link that Sous posted, look low profile and sleek and would look good with some heat shrink on them. To be fair, soldering is a PIA anyway.
That is the same crimp tool we have at work and everybody there swears by it.
I will order some of the non-insulated crimps (I have loads of heat shrink) and get me a pair of these crimpers. The main reason to be completely honest with you that I've never liked using crimps is because they look ugly and "trashy" compared to a pretty soldered and heat shrunk connection. Then again all I have seen, are the ugly auto parts store crap. But that being said, the crimp connectors in your link that Sous posted, look low profile and sleek and would look good with some heat shrink on them. To be fair, soldering is a PIA anyway.
The black handle Klein crimp tool #1006 is for non-insulated terminals only. It has two sizes of dies ( I think that's the proper term) that crimp smaller and larger wire sizes. It does a very nice job of crimping. After I crimp a terminal, I heat up the adhesive lined shrink wrap tubing and the final product looks professional. ***IF*** your crimp comes out aesthetically less than perfect, the thick, heat shrink tubing is capable of hiding a multitude of sins. The important thing is to have a proper crimp that isn't loose and doesn't pull apart.
Below is a quote from SSJ when he talked about what he uses.
EDIT: I see now the ebay link has expired. @SkySkiJason , would you be so kind as to provide another link to a crimper that resembles your favorite crimper to use?
Very nice write up. Thank you very much. I have everything I need in my digital shopping cart ready to order. I am glad y'all pointed out to me just how many weak points there are in a soldered connection on a vehicle.
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