Turbo sizing matters!!!

We here at KC Turbos get asked this question all the time and there is so much confusion around the subject. We might a video going over in detail with actual data explaining why bigger is not always better. Check it out and let me know if you have any questions.

Post up below with questions/comments, call us, or feel free to send us an email if you ever want to go over your build.

sales@kcturbos.com
480-688-7160

Not sure the best way to post/embed the video but subscribe to our Youtube channel if you want to see more content like this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXsSjo8Wr2I

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KC.....here is your video.

 

Would you mind letting me know how you did that LOL... I tried a bunch of different ways and could not figure it out?

 

I have no intention of changing anything on my engine, but the video was educational. Thanks!

 

What is your opinion on an S363/68/.83 T4 on a 2016 stock fueled truck? The truck tows extremely heavy and would like to run around 50hp over stock (currently has a 30hp file).

 

I am not the right person to ask about t4 benefits on a 6.7... there are people out there that are big fans but I am not one of them. IMO they tend to add a lot of lag without much benefit when it comes to daily driving and towing. You will lose most of your towing ability in the 1500-1800rpms range. Stock turbo will outperform the 363 in the 1800-2200rpms range. You will only see benefits in the higher rpm range above 2200-2300rpms.

I don't have that exact graph handy... my old laptop died and I lost a lot of dyno graphs. But here is a 2016 stock turbo with stroker pump vs adding an s366sxe... so the 363 will fall somewhere in between the two so I guesstimated a dyno graph for you.

stroker pump
Yellow - stock turbo REAL GRAPH
Green - s366
Red - FAKE 363 graph



You can see that the benefits don't really start till around the 2300-2500rpms range. There are huge benefits above 3000rpms... but keep in mind this is with a stroker pump. With a stock HPFP you will tap out around 525-550hp worth of fuel on a race tune. On just tow tune probably 450-475hp... which means you will get all that extra lag from the s300 turbo without any of the added benefit of the top end HP.

Now strictly from an EBP/EGT standpoint... you will see benefits, but that will be at a great sacrifice of lower end power.

 

Thanks for the advice, kicking around some ideas.

The best bang for the buck seems to be a drop in 10 blade turbine wheel, with a 360° kit and a billet wheel of some design. I went back and found some of your old dyno graphs (15-16 billet wheel testing) the 11+0 billet was similar to stock and the 6+6 shifted everything to the right. My question is, will I be good to go just keeping the stock compressor wheel and adding the 10 blade? (Balanced of coarse) IMO I dont see any reason not if the billet 11+0 is very similar in performance. The 10 blade should cover what I need done. Slight performance bump, get rid of the horrid hiss/squeal, help egts a bit.

 

What are your thoughts about hybrid electric turbos? Such as Garrett's:
https://www.garrettmotion.com/electr...rrett-e-turbo/

My current turbo, MPD SXE 64.5, works well for me for now but I plan on upping my HP in the future but want to keep the low-end power. VGTs have not shown durability of fixed blades and I know E-turbos may not be as durable as well but they have the potential to offer near-infinite customization and greatly improve efficiency.