300 inline No Spark! HELP!
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300 inline No Spark! HELP!
I've got an 84 Bronco with a 4.9L....was driving it around and it died....no spark. Changed the ignition module, still no spark, changed the coil, still no spark...for some reason I have 12v on both sides of the coil...what other checks can I perform? What about the internal pickups etc?
I'm about to just swap in my olds points ignition from my old 67 F100
I'm about to just swap in my olds points ignition from my old 67 F100
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Joined: Sep 2002
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From: missouri
hi SYRacing:
i'm not sure what the correct procedure is for checking this part. it is an inexpensive part though. the correct name of the part is the armature. that, along with the stator, makes the complete pickup.
it is probably easiest to just replace it. u replaced the other major parts so i'm guessing this is the problem. take a look at this: http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/cgi-win...kupResults*****
figure 2 should help i think.
it is a cheap and easy part to replace......maybe this is it
good luck
i'm not sure what the correct procedure is for checking this part. it is an inexpensive part though. the correct name of the part is the armature. that, along with the stator, makes the complete pickup.
it is probably easiest to just replace it. u replaced the other major parts so i'm guessing this is the problem. take a look at this: http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/cgi-win...kupResults*****
figure 2 should help i think.
it is a cheap and easy part to replace......maybe this is it
good luck
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That link didnt work for me.....What about the pickup coil?
I did some research and the coil should have 12v on both sides when the ignition is on, when you crank the engine over it grounds through the ECC..I'm going to check when I get home tonight. Daylight savings sucks, I get out of work at 4:30 and only have 30min of daylight lol
I'm also thinking about testing with a test light on the tach terminal and cranking it over..I've read that it should pulsate.
Problem is that its a $50 special, got it from a kid for $50 and the ignition was broken (dont worry I have the title) so instead of buying a new ignition I just rewired all of it. I took the keyswitch module out and tested for continuity when the ignition switch is on. I then am using a 5a switch to fire a 30a relay to turn all of these things on. The vehicle is started with a momentary push button. It ran great when I rewired it...I dont think its my wiring because it worked before and just suddenly died after 30min of driving. Do you think the ECC could be bad? What about the ECC relay? How do I test it?
Chiltons manual shows the contacts on the ECC relay just firing a bunch of emissions crap that I've removed....I wish this thing was more simple....the old school points setup is sounding better and better.
I did some research and the coil should have 12v on both sides when the ignition is on, when you crank the engine over it grounds through the ECC..I'm going to check when I get home tonight. Daylight savings sucks, I get out of work at 4:30 and only have 30min of daylight lol
I'm also thinking about testing with a test light on the tach terminal and cranking it over..I've read that it should pulsate.
Problem is that its a $50 special, got it from a kid for $50 and the ignition was broken (dont worry I have the title) so instead of buying a new ignition I just rewired all of it. I took the keyswitch module out and tested for continuity when the ignition switch is on. I then am using a 5a switch to fire a 30a relay to turn all of these things on. The vehicle is started with a momentary push button. It ran great when I rewired it...I dont think its my wiring because it worked before and just suddenly died after 30min of driving. Do you think the ECC could be bad? What about the ECC relay? How do I test it?
Chiltons manual shows the contacts on the ECC relay just firing a bunch of emissions crap that I've removed....I wish this thing was more simple....the old school points setup is sounding better and better.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Memphis, TN
An '84 I6 should be carbureted (300ci). Do you have the feedback carb?
The coil inside the distributor is called the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) and it signals the ignition module to ground the coil at the right time, when the engine is turning. The Haynes manual has a detailed and thorough procedure for diagnosing the ignition system using a multimeter.
The coil inside the distributor is called the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) and it signals the ignition module to ground the coil at the right time, when the engine is turning. The Haynes manual has a detailed and thorough procedure for diagnosing the ignition system using a multimeter.
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Ended up being nasty green ECC terminals..god I hate that..anyway the problem keeps reoccuring and I keep cleaning them and using dielectric grease..I'm getting the required parts this weekend for a Duraspark II swap..I'm also getting a different carburator from my old 72 F100....one thing that I have noticed is that the bronco is overheating, took the thermostat out and its still doing it, flushed radiator etc I'm thinking it could be a head gasket..what type of checks can I perform to verify that it isnt a head gasket leaking?
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