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Old Dec 28, 2021 | 07:07 PM
  #16  
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You were right, it wasn't the solenoid clicking, it is that small relay looking thing between it and the battery, with a 3 wire connector. Haven't looked at the wiring diagram to see what the hell it is yet, by I unplugged it, and it fired right up. Only thing is, the new damn solenoid I just bolted on was stuck out of the box, and kept cranking the starter after I removed the key. So old one is going back on tomorrow after work. The test light was real bright with that relay thing connected, but real dim without it. So I'm gonna find out if it's needed or not, and what it is.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2021 | 08:55 PM
  #17  
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From: Eagar, az
Seems it's a horn relay? I don't even have a horn, or any components of it so I thought. Is that what this is, and if so , is it needed for any reason other than a horn?
 
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Old Dec 29, 2021 | 09:13 PM
  #18  
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Battery positive should go straight to the starter solenoid.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2021 | 02:02 PM
  #19  
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Ugh. Long story short. After checking coil, getting bad resistance readings, replacing coil, new horn relay, I am now getting 9.5 volts in crank, 10 in run. Shouldn't this be reversed to 9 in run 12 in start? She fired up great, but when running coil + has 11 volts rising to 13 when revved (with 1.4 ohm ballast resistor) i have a bypass from I terminal to coil + for start volts also. Don't want to fry this coil running 11 to 13 volts
 
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