When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I installed four amber lights on my running board brackets, but not wired to the truck yet. I can't find any drawing, schematic, or thread tell me where to attach to my normal parking/running lights. I know about the plug at the back of the cab on the frame for the factory running board lights, that will come on when the door opens but that's not what I'm looking for. I want the lights to stay on all the time when I have my parking/running lights on. Any help would be appreciated.
I installed four amber lights on my running board brackets, but not wired to the truck yet. I can't find any drawing, schematic, or thread tell me where to attach to my normal parking/running lights. I know about the plug at the back of the cab on the frame for the factory running board lights, that will come on when the door opens but that's not what I'm looking for. I want the lights to stay on all the time when I have my parking/running lights on. Any help would be appreciated.
Hi neighbor! I would pull off a connector feeding a headlight assembly and use a meter to identify which wire is hot when only the parking lights are illuminated. When I added the 3-light bar under my tailgate, I tapped into one of the license plate lights after I identified the positive and negative wires. Someone with the wiring diagrams may come along and post a better power source/location.
Some guys run wires to the back of the bed and tap into the tail light wiring. Easy to get to compared to engine compartment and the lamp assembly falls off (sort of) into your hands with only 2 fasteners removed.
Some guys run wires to the back of the bed and tap into the tail light wiring. Easy to get to compared to engine compartment and the lamp assembly falls off (sort of) into your hands with only 2 fasteners removed.
Automotive electronics are no longer simple hot/ground to just tap in to. . . Tapping the tail light may send a signal that you are now towing a trailer. The license plate light may be the most risk free.
Automotive electronics are no longer simple hot/ground to just tap in to. . . Tapping the tail light may send a signal that you are now towing a trailer. The license plate light may be the most risk free.
True. Years back I had a lighted insert in the hitch receiver that plugged into the 4 prong. Those days are over, as the truck's computer thinks there's a trailer back there when it senses the draw.
Automotive electronics are no longer simple hot/ground to just tap in to. . . Tapping the tail light may send a signal that you are now towing a trailer. The license plate light may be the most risk free.
That's a great idea. I will look into that option when it stops raining.
I tossed around tapping into a live line for the Amber side lights. I tapped into my plate light wire for the three LED under tailgate light and I didn’t want to go there again with the side lights. It’s a very thin wire.
IMO, I would still suggest the safe route and use the first upfitter switch. Fused, key isolated and easy to wire.
Yep, the license plate light is a great idea. That is what I used on both of my half tons for some rear marker lights. The ground is also right there.
On my current truck I went ahead and soldered the connections, but there are some devices called posi-taps that work really good as well which is what I used on the truck in this pic. No cutting or even stripping of insulation on the license plate wires.
When I get my Super Duty, I may have to copy that idea
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
