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1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

2008 suddenly died

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Old Dec 17, 2021 | 01:23 PM
  #1  
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hp_lovecraft
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2008 suddenly died

My 2008 e350 with 5.4 suddenly died. Still cranks, but nothing else. It had been hard starting for a few weeks..... and now just will not start at all. Fortunately, this happened in my driveway.

It did not throw any codes on my basic code reader. So, what is the process I should go through to check?
From reading threads here, common issues:
Fuel pump driver module
Fuel pump
Fuel pump cutoff
Fuel pump relay/fuse
Bad ECC
Bad harness connectors
Bad battery
Bad COPS

Normally, I'll just replace parts until something works, but some of these parts are pricey. Is there a way to check these to see if they are working properly?
 
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Old Dec 17, 2021 | 06:56 PM
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Does it sound like its trying to start, gasping for gas or is it just turning over and over?
If its trying to get gas I would check fuel pressure and check fuel pump relay those are two cheap and easy tests.
Has the fuel filter been changed recently?

This might sound obvious, but is the battery dead?

You should have a spark tester as well to check for spark.
The link below has lots of usefull info. Just scroll to your engine.
https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/main-index
 
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Old Dec 17, 2021 | 10:17 PM
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Get a sparkplug tester. Like $10 from local autoparts store. Check for spark 1st. Eliminate that.

Ya, just use a multimeter on those wire for the parts you listed. And google stuff.

I bet like hell its the fuel pump tho.. So id let out the fuel pressure via shrader valve on fuel line i suppose? Then get a fuel pressure guage hooked on there and see how it works. A bad fuel pump can look good at idle and go weak underload/driving too. lol.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2021 | 04:56 AM
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JWA
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@HP _Lovecraft Remove the air filter and with a helper spray starting fluid into the throttle body while cranking the starter. If the engine starts and will continue running with an occasional additional spray its more than likely the fuel pump. Although if the fuel pump itself has failed a DTC is triggered related to the fuel pump circuitry.

If the engine doesn't fire with the staring fluid method you may have an ignition problem. Even with failed COP's or plugs with adequate fuel pressure the engine will fire and run albeit rough.

Borrow a dedicated fuel pressure testing kit making sure it has the necessary fuel rail adapter for Fords. Key on (no engine crank) should show a rise in pressure, could be as high as 45 PSI or so. If not the fuel pump isn't running so check its entire power circuit.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2021 | 08:13 AM
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We are going to get a blizzard today, so plans are on hold for now

i did check all the easy stuff: fuses, relays, cutofff, etc. I replaced the fuel pump module since that’s a 2 min job

ill follow the advice above and grab a pressure gauge, spark tester and some ether after the storm

but I did notice something odd. While under the hood, I noticed I had a coolant leak on the tstat housing, right next to the ECC. And the ECC wire harness was broken, exposing the wires. I might pack them with dielectric grease to see if that makes a diff






 
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Old Dec 19, 2021 | 05:51 AM
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That first photo might not be the t-stat housing leaking--it could be the cross over tube mounted to the intake manifold. If that's the case a proper repair would be replacing the intake manifold.

That's somewhat common for the plastic intake manifolds used on the Modular Motors. I don't know that would cause your no start condition but it should be further investigated
 
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Old Dec 29, 2021 | 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by JWA
That first photo might not be the t-stat housing leaking--it could be the cross over tube mounted to the intake manifold. If that's the case a proper repair would be replacing the intake manifold.
I finally had some good weather and dug the van out of the snow to tackle the no-start issue.
But first I wanted to figure the leak around the TStat. When I removed the top, there was no oring inside? That might have been might mistake when I changed the thermostat 4-5 years ago, and the friction alone was enough to seal all this time? fixed now.

Then the engine. I suspected that the issue was the wire harness connectors to the ECC. They are missing the housing, so the ends are exposed. I think the coolant was causing a short.
I gave them a heavy spray with deoxidizing spray. THen packed the harness with as much dielectric grease as would fit, then wrapped with tape as best I could.

And it started. Runs fine. I'm 90% sure this was the issue, but could also mean something was wet, and is dry now, and the problem will come back. However, I was also having an issue with the dash. Guages would work randomly, and that damn chime was always going off.. that all seems fine now.
 
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