Low power/no boost
The fuel pump sounded like it was going out, it was very noisy, so I threw a new Bosch in there. No change. Rebuilt the fuel bowl while it was out, no change.
Did a boost test, found some small leaks around the plenums so i pulled those off and resealed, no change.
Turbo was out for the plenums so I installed new Riff Raff up-pipes and collector in there. I can hear the turbo spool better, but again no change.
I will be checking fuel pressure from the relief valve on the bowl tonight, will report back with that number.
Maybe MAP/EBP/Baro? I swapped the EBP sensor (was showing 47 psi at idle, tubing is cleared of soot), MAP shows what it should (14.XX +/-), but my BARO was showing 8.XX if I recall. I currently use an SCT-X4 to monitor while driving and have read the SCT may throw off the BARO reading. I have not checked it on FORscan, tbh. EBP still shows crazy high, SCT issue there as well? Will double check with FORscan as well. Will also run another boost check later tonight.
Hoping this isnt a turbo or injector issue, both are a bit out of my price range at the moment... Do you guys have any ideas?
Related link: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...d-q-and-a.html
Your observed EBP and BARO are not right, but as you indicated may be due to the SCT as I am not familiar with the tricks it may be teaching your PCM. Baro, EBP and MAP should be within .5 of each other on a cold engine with the ignition on and the engine off.
Unplug the MAP and see what happens.
Check the EOT reading to make sure it is where it should be.
You replaced/serviced some of the major fuel system parts, do you know what the fuel pressure is at idle and/or under load?
Related link: Fuel Pressure The Easy Method
Any other abnormal running or starting conditions you have noticed?
I will get into FORscan tonight and log this stuff so we can take a better peak at it, figured I would at least get this started while I am slower at work and in case there was something obvious i may be missing. I will report back with the BARO/MAP/EBP numbers as read by FORscan and post them with the log.
Rented a fuel pressure tester from the zone, will report back with that later as well.
Nothing abnormal that I can tell. My EOT really never gets about 170*, highest I have seen it is about 190* during the summer. IIRC, the EOT has always shown that, even when I had power and boost.
I do not have the EBPV hooked up, so i have a soft code being thrown for that. I deleted the valve itself and broke the sensor where the pig tail connects, would not having that plugged in have anything to do with it? Again, was broken when i had the power, wouldn't think that would be an issue now.
Anybody who has an iPhone have any success with this? Am i missing something easy here?
On the loss of power issue... I was watching a video on Stihl outdoor power equipment yesterday familiarizing myself with service, maintenance, etc. The video creator mentioned the spark arrestor can sometimes get clogged up if the tool is not run at 100% throttle enough.
This "sparked" my memory that some 7.3L owners have reported clogged up catalytic converters in the past. I know that the catalytic converter was not a common part on these trucks, but I believe some of them rolled off the floor with them. Perhaps that was. a CA thing, I don't know.
Worth a thought at the very least as the financial cost is zero and the time involved is a few seconds to check if there is one under the truck.
What was going on to make you shim them in the first place?
I have read that running 5w-40 synthetic oil will help extend the life of aging injectors. Dad’s 325k truck responded well to T6 oil.
On the loss of power issue... I was watching a video on Stihl outdoor power equipment yesterday familiarizing myself with service, maintenance, etc. The video creator mentioned the spark arrestor can sometimes get clogged up if the tool is not run at 100% throttle enough.
This "sparked" my memory that some 7.3L owners have reported clogged up catalytic converters in the past. I know that the catalytic converter was not a common part on these trucks, but I believe some of them rolled off the floor with them. Perhaps that was. a CA thing, I don't know.
Worth a thought at the very least as the financial cost is zero and the time involved is a few seconds to check if there is one under the truck.
My local Stihl dealer said the equipment is made to either idle or be wide open. Extended partial throttle can cause then to carbon up. I have also dealt with mud dobbers building nests inside the exhaust.
My original experience with the 7.3 in an OBS had a CAT. It was a DOG (pun intended). The CAT was found to be plugged and caused major performance issues.
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No cat on the truck. 5" from downpipe back
Last edited by acdiez; Dec 15, 2021 at 07:08 AM. Reason: No cat, 5" straight pipe from downpipe back.
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At 355k miles, the injectors are suspect. If original, they have exceeded their average lifespan by 100k miles. If rebuilt or replaced, chances are high it was not a quality rebuild or it’s possible they are some cheap, chinesey knock-off injectors that are notorious for not working well for long if they ever work right.
The best remans you can buy right now are only $1350 for stock injectors or add $50 to put a 30% over nozzle on them for a little more power without needing a chip/gauges. Going to bigger injectors requires a chip and gauges and adds a fair bit of expense.
https://bitterrootdiesel.com/collect...ured-injectors
By all means, rule out all other options before spending $$$ on injectors - but don’t be surprised if this is where you end up.
Good luck and keep us posted.
The best remans you can buy right now are only $1350 for stock injectors or add $50 to put a 30% over nozzle on them for a little more power without needing a chip/gauges. Going to bigger injectors requires a chip and gauges and adds a fair bit of expense.
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I'm just getting into the iPhone world, and got it to work with my iPhone SE and a BAFX Wifi OBDII dongle tonight. Try this, once you have your data and have hit stop:
- click the Save icon, then click Send CSV by email.
- Enter your email address where you want the file to go.
- Keeping FORScan open, go to the iPhone Settings app, and change your Wifi connection from the OBDII adapter to your normal Wifi network.
- Go back to FORScan Lite and hit the "up arrow" send button. It will complain that it can't connect to the dongle, but the email with the CSV file should send, and show up in your email a few seconds later.
I'm just getting into the iPhone world, and got it to work with my iPhone SE and a BAFX Wifi OBDII dongle tonight. Try this, once you have your data and have hit stop:
- click the Save icon, then click Send CSV by email.
- Enter your email address where you want the file to go.
- Keeping FORScan open, go to the iPhone Settings app, and change your Wifi connection from the OBDII adapter to your normal Wifi network.
- Go back to FORScan Lite and hit the "up arrow" send button. It will complain that it can't connect to the dongle, but the email with the CSV file should send, and show up in your email a few seconds later.
On an Android device, when I select save, the process of actually saving the file can take several seconds based on the overall file size. The file size is directly related to the length of the log file.
Once the save is complete, the log file is located in the "download" folder.
I have never tried to email or send the file as BWST does.
If you have the text file, perhaps upload it here and one of us can try and manipulate the data to fit into columns and rows as it would in the .csv format.











